Lisa Cho - Moon Galápagos Islands

an albatross.

The Galpagos archipelago is one place on earth that lives up to and surpasses expectations. There are insufficient superlatives. It is unquestionably the best place on earth for wildlife-watching because the wildlife watches you as much as you watch it. The lack of natural predators has left the animals fearless. The only timid species are the fish, the food supply for so many. Every other creature on the islands is either unconcerned by the presence of visitors or is intent on communicating.

The Galpagos are also heaven for bird-watchers. Here you dont need to get up at dawn and wait with binoculars for a glimpse of birdlife in the trees. Instead, the birds proudly display themselvesthe male frigates inflate their red chests to the size of a basketball, the albatross entertain with their circular clacking dance, and pelicans dive-bomb the ocean in search of lunch.

A visit to these islands changes you, as it changed Charles Darwin, who was inspired to form his monumental theory of evolution after visiting in 1835. The Galpagos region is a glimpse of what life was like before humans threw their weight around, and a reminder that when we seek out perfection, we throw a wrench in natures works. Evidence of human activity on the Galpagos is everywherethe number of endemic species hunted or driven to near extinction by introduced species is alarming. But the effort of conservationists to restore the ecological balance is equally inspiring. You will return from these islands filled with a sense of wonder and a clearer view of natures fragile beauty.

frigate bird in a mating display on Genovesa

sea lion on the beach on Plaza Sur

Bartolom

Nazca boobies rubbing beaks in a courtship ritual

red vesuvium on a Floreana trail.

hawkfish hiding in the rocks

Wildlife-viewing: Get a glimpse of the nearly 5,000 different species of wildlife, many of which can only be found on these rocky islands (

Bird-watching: The Galpagos Islands are the best place to see high-diving boobies ().

Diving and Snorkeling: Swim alongside whale sharks, sea turtles, hammerheads, sea lion pups, rays, eels, and more in the unparalleled marine marvels at Kicker Rock, Los Tneles, Gordon Rocks, and the Wolf and Darwin Islands (

Evolution in Action: Learn about the science and history of the Galpagos unique ecosystem at the Charles Darwin Research Station ().

Wandering through Volcanic Landscapes: Experience the awe-inspiring views of the archipelago through blackened lava trails in Sierra Negra (

Where to Go

The Galpagos archipelago comprises 13 volcanic islands and 16 tiny islets. The total population of the archipelago is 30,000. Only four of the islands are populated: Santa Cruz (by far the largest, with 15,000 people), San Cristbal, Isabela, and Floreana. These are the only islands that can be visited independently on shuttle ferry services. The populated areas account for only 3 percent of the archipelagos surface area, with the rest protected in the national park.

There are 70 land visitor sites and roughly the same number of marine sites. Sites on Seymour Norte, Plaza Sur, Bartolom, Espaola, and Santa F can all be reached by either cruises or guided day trips from Santa Cruz. The other main islands in the archipelagoSantiago, Rbida, Genovesa, Darwin, Wolf, the northern part of Isabela, and Fernandinacan only be visited on cruises. Pinta and Marchena in the north are both off-limits to visitors.

Santa Cruz and the surrounding islets receive the most visitors. San Cristbal and Isabela also get busy in high season, and Floreana is the least visited of the inhabited islands. The more far-flung islands that are only accessible to cruises are much quieter.

Whichever islands you visit, you can see just a tiny portion of the archipelago: The 70 visitor sites represent only 0.01 percent of the total landmass, and the rest of the national park is strictly out-of-bounds to visitors.