De Villiers Johan - Once Upon a Chicken Pie and Other Food Tales

This book is dedicated to all the food lovers and travellers around
the world who have either knowingly or unwittingly inspired us.

JOHAN DE VILLIERS WITH LEN STRAW

Published in print in 2010 by Struik Lifestyle
(an imprint of Random House Struik (Pty) Ltd)
Company Reg. No. 1966/003153/07
Wembley Square, First Floor, Solan Road, Cape Town, 8001
PO Box 1144, Cape Town, 8000, South Africa
This ebook edition published in 2012

Copyright in published edition: Random House Struik (Pty) Ltd 2010
Copyright in text: Johan de Villiers and Len Straw 2010
Copyright in food photographs: Random House Struik (Pty) Ltd 2010
Copyright in all other photographs: Johan de Villiers and Len Straw 2010
Copyright in Globetrotter map of Morocco (p ): Cyprus Tourism Organisation 1992

Every effort has been made to trace copyright holders and to obtain their permission for the use of copyright material. The publisher apologises for any errors or omissions in the above list and would be grateful if notified of any corrections that should be incorporated in future reprints or editions of this book.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and the copyright holders.

PUBLISHER: Linda de Villiers
EDITOR: Cecilia Barfield
DESIGNER: Beverley Dodd
PHOTOGRAPHER: Ryno
PROOFREADER AND INDEXER: Joy Clack

Print ISBN 978-1-77007-850-5
Epub ISBN 978-1-43170-285-5
PDF ISBN 978-1-43170-286-2

www.randomstruik.co.za

It was in the old Huguenot town of Franschhoek, in a tiny, elegant hotel that we met two uniquely gifted characters who were the heart and soul of the establishment. They managed everything to perfection. Their daily focus centred on the comfort and well-being of their guests as though it were their own home.

Len with his infectious, effervescent nature was there to greet us and place us under their protection, while Johan with his gentle, smiling eyes Jasper, his beloved greyhound at his side welcomed us with all his heart. If a shadow of concern flickered across his brow, it was merely to be assured that everything was to our liking.

I was so entranced by the beauty that enveloped me, I recall traipsing behind Johan like a puppy into his kitchen, his domain. And it was there, with the light streaming through the open windows, the heady aroma of the sun-ripened fruits and freshly harvested herbs piled in abundance on great platters like a Dutch still life, that I had found Nirvarna. This kitchen was a hive of happy industry where Johan encouraged apprentices while he stirred the pots, tasted sauces and conjured up his dishes.

Try to imagine the pleasure of my first morning. Peacefully refreshed after our long flight, we came down to a breakfast table that Matisse should have painted: bunches of wild flowers gathered that morning and popped into a vase, an assortment of the prettiest flowered china rescued from bric-a-brac shops by the incomparable eye of Johan and Len during their years of browsing. They were living the Buddhist teaching: To truly give from ones heart, one must not merely offer, but must bestow a gift, unbidden at the feet of the guest.

In this book you will find far more than a compendium of recipes. It is a collection of a lifetime, appreciating the skill of cooking, understanding the alchemy that ties food together; that the right twist of lime, a thread of saffron and few torn leaves of tarragon can make a dish sing. Inspiration came to Johan at the knee of his mother, and from his sister Voys passion for cooking delicious, Afrikaans food for the family. Throughout his years of travel, his repertoire broadened and expanded, finally realising that truthful food is the best and that good cooking, in the end, is an act of love.

PATSY PUTTNAM

Lennie and I have been blessed with creative spirits, minds and hands. Thirsty for inspiration and information, we love travelling. In bothersome, impecuniary times, we rely on books and magazines to keep us buoyant. Our families and friends are also invaluable in this respect and not a day passes without us being touched by a kindred spirit. Our French-style tea and coffee shop, la Petite Tarte, miraculously attracts guests who we not only relate to, but also grow fond of, or in the case of foreign visitors, we are very sad to bid adieu.

Our lives have been filled with opportunities. Len worked as a bookkeeper, in retailing at Harrods, created beautiful displays at the old Stuttafords, moved into PR and managed a shopping centre. He established a charming deli/take-away called Straws, which grew into a fully fledged restaurant in Cavendish Square. But eventually the creative urge triumphed and he started his career in painting, both pictures and interiors.

When I left Stellenbosch University in 1969, I worked as a designer at a firm of architects but only until I had enough money for my grande tour of Europe. Ten months and ten million unforgettable experiences later, I returned to Cape Town. Four days after my return I took up a position as lecturer in jewellery-making at the Ruth Prowse Art Centre run by the jovial, capable and well-loved Erik Laubscher, who nurtured a unique environment of creativity. I also grabbed the opportunity of working in the costume props department of the Cape Performing Arts Board. More interaction with talented designers and artists!

Some 18 years of teaching at government schools followed, working with children through to young adults, and always trusting that they enjoyed themselves as much as I did. In the meantime, Lens decorative painting studio grew and grew and the temptation to join him was overwhelming.

Together we established a successful studio-base from where we taught, executed commissions and compiled three books. A successful sideline of Lens was ChinaWorks, where he and Belinda Wilkinson produced hand-painted china. The harder we worked, the more frequently we could visit friends in Greece and Egypt. Painting contracts followed in Cyprus, Paris, New York and finally on Skiathos, which saw us helping to establish Villa Athena. That was followed by two years of running the villa and its self-catering cottages. It was hard work, but we met wonderful people and cemented everlasting friendships.

On our return to South Africa, we joined the Royal Portfolio as managers of La Residence in Franschhoek. Once more we were blessed with beautiful surroundings, gentle guests and magnificent experiences. After seven years we moved back to our Cape Town home. Cristiana, daughter of our friend Lina, was ready to sell her lovely salon du th and coffee shop to us and we jumped at the opportunity to be independent again. la Petite Tarte seems to attract a most pleasant, refined clientele, we see our friends regularly and treasured old friends have been coming back into our lives.

A delightful aspect of growing older is the facility to look back. I presume that it is a universal phenomenon to discard, or pass on, more and more chattels, treasure or junk whatever clutters ones later world. This world of mine produced little notebooks, slips of paper, itineraries, museum tickets, photographs and many memories of our very own history. Precious as these are to us, Len and I worked together to record them and present them to others who may enjoy them with us.