Gutierrez - Latin American street food: the best flavors of markets, beaches, and roadside stands from Mexico to Argentina

Latin American

S t r e e t F o o d

2013 Sandra A. Gutierrez
All rights reserved. Manufactured in China.

Designed by Kim Bryant and set in Merlo and Museo types by Rebecca Evans. Photographs by Fred Thompson unless otherwise credited on page . Props and food styling by Sandra A. Gutierrez and Fred Thompson. Set design by Kim Bryant. The paper in this book meets the guidelines for permanence and durability of the Committee on Production Guidelines for Book Longevity of the Council on Library Resources. The University of North Carolina Press has been a member of the Green Press Initiative since 2003.

Some of the recipes in this book include raw seafood or shellfish, which, consumed raw, can pose a risk from bacteria that are killed by proper cooking and should not be consumed by pregnant women, infants, small children, the elderly, or people with autoimmune conditions. Please purchase all ingredients from trusted sources and read and follow recipe instructions carefully. The author and publisher disclaim liability for illness or injury that may be suffered while cooking and consuming foods described in this book.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Gutierrez, Sandra A.
Latin American street food: the best flavors of markets, beaches, and roadside
stands from Mexico to Argentina/Sandra A. Gutierrez.
pages cm
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-1-4696-0870-9 (cloth: alk. paper)
1. Cooking, Latin American. 2. Street foodLatin America.I. Title.
TX716.A1G884 2013
641.598dc23 2013008285

17 16 15 14 13 5 4 3 2 1

To all of the street food vendors
who get up each morning and trek to their outdoor kitchens so they can feed the world

Contents

Acknowledgments

The writers journey can sometimes be a lonely one, but I am lucky to have a slate of wonderful folks who have cheered, helped, and joined me on mine. It has been such a joy to be able to work with everyone at the University of North Carolina Press again, especially with editor, word-smith, and dear friend Elaine Maisner. Im so indebted to her for her careful nurturing of my writers voice, enthusiastic support for the theme of this book, and tremendous creative force. Im also honored to work with and owe so much to publicists Gina Mahalek and Jennifer Hergenroeder, for their expertise and dedication.

Thanks also to Dino Battista, Michael Donatelli, and their entire team. Special thanks to David Perryto whom I owe plenty of acarajsfor your enthusiasm, support, and friendship. Editors protect us writers from ourselves, and Im indebted to copyeditor Mary Caviness for having my back in this project and for helping me polish my words.

An eye for detail is key to a beautiful cookbook, and my profound gratitude goes to Kim Bryant, the amazingly creative design director for UNC Press for expertly designing a book that captures the fun that this subject matter warrants. Photographs are an important part of this book, and my deep appreciation goes to Fred Thompson, my colleague and good friend, who translated a whole world of street foods into vibrant photographs. Working with both Kim and Fred was a highlight of this project. Thanks also to Kyle Wilkerson for his help. Photo shoots mean long days of planning, shopping, prepping, cooking, and washing, and I wish to thank my friends Tracey Shea, Sally Fry Scruggs, and Denise Noonan for their invaluable help and generosity of time and for hours of camaraderie that made these days go by quickly.

An agent is an authors best advocate, and mine happens to be an amazing one, as well as a treasured friend and a valued mentor. Thank you, Lisa Ekus, for recognizing the epiphany it was when I came up with the idea to write this book years ago in Portland, Oregon. My deepest thanks also to Sally Ekus. She fell in love with this subject matter as hard as I did and sold my proposal with indomitable enthusiasm and incredible speed. I owe much gratitude to you both, and to the entire team at The Lisa Ekus Group.

For almost three decades, my husband, Luis, has provided me the opportunity to do what I love, given me a safe place to grow, and embraced me with his staunch support of my work. His generosity of heart and encouragement move me. We are blessed with two amazing daughters. Alessandra tasted each and every recipe with joy in her heart that kept me smiling. Niccolle was my cheerleader throughout this project as she patiently and meticulously helped to measure and weigh ingredients and transcribe and edit recipes during months of recipe-testing. I love you all so much.

I owe special thanks to my friends Norman Van Aken and Nancie McDermott, who recommended the publication of this book and gave it an enthusiastic thumbs upyour friendship and mentorship mean the world to me, and Im indebted to both of you for your kindness and for inspiring me to continue to write about what I love.

Great recipe testers are hard to come by, and my sincere gratitude goes to my dear friend and recipe tester extraordinaire, Liz Tarpy, for her devotion to exactitude. I wish to thank my colleagues and friends Elissa Altman, Jean Anderson, Virginia Willis, Cheryl Sternman-Rule, Jill OConnor, Kim ODonnell, Tara Mataraza Desmond, and Robin Asbell for the advice, the laughter, and the friendship that has enriched my life.

Many thanks to my Latin American friends and relatives who so generously shared insight into the modern street food scene of their countries, or who offered corroboration as I developed many of the recipes in this book: Irene de Alfaro, Maria Esther Tey de Alfaro, Victor Quesada, Luisa Fernanda Ros, Vivian S. de Sols, Georgina Ziga, Irma Barco, and Maria del Pilar S. de Fernandez, and to my Facebook friends around Latin America who answered my queries every time I had a question. Special gratitude goes to my sweet friends Elena and Francisco Fumagalli for years of friendship and for sharing their special family recipe with me.

A teacher is only as good as her students, and mine are fabulous folks who keep on inspiring me to learn more each day. My most sincere thanks go to all of the booksellers and culinary directors of cooking schools who have so kindly welcomed me so I can continue to spread the gospel of Latin American food.

I thank God infinitely for blessings received.

A street sign for ceviches, smoothies, and sandwiches.

Latin American

S t r e e t F o o d

A Peruvian schoolgirl waits for her orange juice.

Introduction

My first memory of street food involves eating hot, sweet churros directly from a paper bag while strolling alongside my mother as she ran her errands through the streets of downtown Guatemala City, known as El Centro. I distinctly remember the grainy texture of the sugar surrounding the curls of fried dough, how my sticky fingers felt right before I licked the sweet goodness away every now and again, and how the crispy exterior of the pastry gave way to a spongy softness whenever my teeth sank into it. I cant recall what errands got completed that day, but the taste of hot, sugary fried dough is etched clearly in my mind.