Klivans - Donuts

recipes Elinor Klivans

photographs Lauren Burke

From that first piece of leftover dough that was dropped into a pot of hot fat over a crackling fire, to the hole-in-the-middle glazed donuts of today, these popular sweets have been around for centuries. The name doughnuts probably evolved from the Dutch, who shaped dough scraps into knots or dough knots before frying. Fast forward to the present day, and the word is commonly shortened to the donuts seen on the neon signs of street-corner sweets shops.

Donuts are made in all shapes and sizes. Cream-filled puffs of yeast dough, two-bite donut holes, classic glazed or frosted rings, and light, irregularly shaped fritters are just some of the choices that this book has to offer. It begins with recipes for the classic yeast and cake donuts that we know so well. Among them are old-fashioned maple bars; fruit-filled jelly donuts; rings of dark, sweet, devils food cake; and donut holes dusted with cinnamon sugar. These favorites are followed by a chapter featuring new and creative options that satisfy our modern appetite for variety. Chocolate rings flavored with spicy chile powder; crisp bacon-topped donuts; and puffs dipped in a salted caramel glaze and topped with chopped pecans are just some of the tempting choices. The last recipe chapter illuminates a whole world of donut traditions, offering regional and international specialties. From Mexico come honey-dipped sopaipillas ; Italy contributes light ricotta zeppole ; and Latin America lends its morning snack of long, crisp churros to dip in warm chocolate sauce; among other delights.

The most surprising fact about donuts is how easy they are to make at home. They are quick to mix, to form, and to cook, frying to crisp perfection in just a few minutes. Best of all, after cooling just briefly, it is time to eat the donuts. The recipes that follow will provide a wealth of choices to please any palate.

Although they come in many flavors and shapes, most donuts are made from one of three basic types of dough: yeast dough, cake dough, or pte choux . One common trait is that a plain donut, regardless of type of dough used, is not too sweet. Its the glazes, fillings, and toppings that supply most of the sweetness.

DOUGH LEAVENINGS

Quick-rise (also called rapid-rise, instant, or fast-rise) yeast has finer granules and acts more quickly than active dry yeast, make it the perfect choice for donuts. If using baking soda or baking powder, be sure that it is fresh. Buy a new supply if yours is more than 6 months old.

YEAST DOUGH Yeast-leavened donuts have a light, soft texture. After mixing, rolling, and cutting, they are set aside until they become soft and puffy. During this rising time the dough expands to form an airy texture that is emphasized when the donuts are fried.

CAKE DOUGH These donuts are leavened with baking powder, baking soda, or both, depending on the other dough ingredients, and both the mixing process and resulting texture is similar to that of a simple cake. Cake donuts are denser in texture than yeast-leavened donuts, but the extent of the crispiness depends on the ingredients. For example, a dough that contains cornmeal creates a crispier donut than one made with flour. Some donuts, such as drops and fritters, are made from a modified version of cake batter that is too moist and loose to roll and cut, but is added to the hot oil from a metal spoon to form large, irregular drops.

PTE CHOUX This classic, French-style dough starts with a cooked mixture of milk or water, butter, salt, and flour. Eggs are beaten into the dough and then it is ready to be formed into the desired shapes, such as rings, ropes, or balls, and then deep-fried. The steam formed during frying creates the leavening and contributes to an especially light texture.

SPECIALTY DOUGHS Other donut batters dont fall into any of the above categories, but are the specialties of various countries around the world. For example, Mexican sopaipillas are made from a variation on piecrust. Indian-inspired donut balls use a large amount of dry milk powder to help absorb a spiced soaking syrup. New Orleansstyle calas use a base of cooked rice to create a flavorful, textured breakfast fritter.

Making donuts at home does not necessarily mean purchasing new equipment; most of what you need you probably already have on hand in your kitchen. If you make donuts or other fried foods often, consider investing in a good-quality deep fryer, which eases the job of regulating the heat, controlling odors, and cleanup.

MIXING WITH A FOOD PROCESSOR

If you do not have a stand mixer, you can use a food processor with fine results: Following the sequence outlined in the recipe, add the dry ingredients to the work bowl and pulse 3 or 4 times to mix. Add the liquid ingredients and process for 20 to 30 seconds to form a dough. Transfer the dough to a bowl or a work surface, according to the recipe, and proceed as directed.

ELECTRIC MIXER A hand-held electric mixer or a stand mixer are necessary for making the donut dough. If you dont have a stand-mixer for making yeast dough, you can also use a food processor (see note at left).

ROLLING PIN AND CUTTERS A rolling pin is needed to roll the dough into a flat round before cutting. Donut cutters or round pastry cutters form the dough into its iconic round shapes.

DEEP FRYER An electric deep fryer maintains an even oil temperature and recovers its temperature quickly after donuts are added to the hot oil. Many deep fryers have a basket for quickly lifting the finished donuts out of the oil and a lid that prevents spattering and controls odors.

SAUT PAN If you dont have a deep fryer, choose a saut pan with straight sides that are at least 4 inches (11.5 cm) high. The pan should also have a heavy bottom, which helps conduct heat evenly. When frying, take extra care that the hot oil does not spatter and burn you.

THERMOMETER A deep-frying thermometer ensures that the oil stays at the ideal frying temperature. It is equipped with a mercury bulb and a column attached to a metal casing and a clip that slips over the pan side to hold it securely. It is specially designed to register very high temperatures. Do not substitute an instant-read thermometer.

FRYING TOOLS A wide spatula or slotted spoon works well for sliding the donuts one at a time into the oil. The same spoon, a pair of tongs, or a wire skimmer are helpful tools for turning the donuts while frying and retrieving the finished donuts from the hot oil.