Lynn - Queens, a culinary passport: exploring ethnic cuisine in New York Citys most diverse borough

QUEENS

A CULINARY PASSPORT

Exploring Ethnic Cuisine in New Yorks Most Diverse Borough

Andrea Lynn

St. Martins Griffin

New York

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To Queens, which stole my heart 7 years ago and has held on with a firm grip since

INTRODUCTION

Queens had my back from my first day as a borough resident. Juggling moving boxes as I shuttled my stuff to my apartment in Astoria, my typical klutziness sent a pile of belongings crashing to the ground with a mess of clothes and books sprawled all over the sidewalk. In Manhattan, I would have been left scrambling as commuters and tourists trampled their way across my stuff. So I was shocked that a number of people stopped what they were doing to rush over and help me. I knew then that Queens was different.

Every time I hear friends talk about moving to Brooklyn, Ill pipe up, Well, what about Queens? Theyll roll their eyes at me and continue with their discussion. Queens remains the step-sister to the more glamorous Manhattan and trendier Brooklyn, a bronze medal borough to many but a winner to those who know its worth. Perhaps what sets Queens apart is what made me fall in love with it: the friendliness of strangers, mom-and-pop stores, pockets of ethnic diversity, and more. With this book, I want to share and inspire a little Queens love.

Queens is a massive borough, so not every distinctive restaurant or food shop can be profiled in the span of a 200-page culinary guidebook. In no way is this book meant to be all-inclusive, but rather a series of snapshots of the boroughs offerings. Ive chosen what I think is a good representation of the borough for those who want just a taste of it. Its also a subway friendly book, concentrating on the parts of the borough accessible via our citys inter-borough transit systemsorry, Rockaway Beach, maybe next time!

For more regular Queens-centered food content, refer to the offers of Edible Queens or the Web sites Serious Eats, We Heart Astoria, Jeff Tastes, and Chopsticks and Marrow. Heres to the start of a Queens love affair.

Indonesia Bazaar held in the parking lot at Masjid Al-Hikmah Mosque in Astoria on random dates during warm weather and deemed some of the best Indonesian food in NYC by Serious Eats Max Falkowtiz. (photo by Andrea Lynn)

ASTORIA

(photo by Janis Turk)

Astoria

One of the zippiest subway rides from Manhattan, Astoria is probably the first neighborhood in Queens a Manhattan resident might get a taste of, an experience that usually takes place in a beer garden. But Astorias cultural beauty is far deeper and more complex than what you might find in a beer garden. When I first moved to Astoria, I held a special fondness for the European feel of the neighborhood. In nice weather, the outdoor tables at Athens Caf are crammed with Greeks and non-Greeks sipping frapps. In the summer, elderly Italian ladies dig through the sale rack of the fruit and vegetable stands across the street looking for less-than-perfect tomatoes for their sauces. The checkered outdoor tablecloths and straight-from-Greece carafes usher in a Mediterranean feel at Gregorys 26 Corner Taverna. While slowly devouring the restaurants divine octopus appetizer one day, I chatted with two girls who were visiting New York City (and Astoria) just because they had heard it would be so similar to the tavernas they had frequented in Greece. And it was, they swooned, as they ate gyros and sipped the strong Greek coffee.

But Greek isnt the only ethnicity represented in Astoria. A stretch of Steinway Street is referred to as Little Egypt due to the North African concentration. Astorias Little Egypt is highlighted by Kabab Caf, opened by chef Ali El Sayed in 1987, whom Anthony Bourdain described as a legend among hard-core foodies; reason alone to go to Queens. The area is also home to many Italians, who flock there for homemade mozzarella, homemade sausage, and imported Italian goods at Sorriso Italian Pork Store and Italian sweets from Gian Piero Bakery across the street.

Athens Caf

Greek Frapp

Yield: 1 serving

(photo by Janis Turk)

Hailed as the national coffee of Greece, the frapp is a frothy concoction of coffee granulates and water, made foamy thanks to a frapp machine. The drink cant exactly be replicated without the machine, but you can come close by putting the drink into a container and shaking it, a lot! The Greek Nescaf Tasters Choice is stronger than its American counterpart. If you can find it, Athens Caf suggests using South African Nescaf, which also has a more robust feel. Instead, I just use more of the easier-found American version. If you find yourself verging on a frapp addiction like I do, machines can be bought at the Greek mecca, Titan Foods. Recipe adapted from Athens Caf.

1 tablespoon Nescaf Tasters Choice Instant Coffee

cup water

Sugar (optional)

3 to 4 ice cubes

Milk or heavy cream, if desired

In a 2-cup or 4-cup container with lid, add coffee, water, sugar (optional), and ice cubes. (Ive found a 2-cup Mason jar ideal for making these.) Tighten lid, and shake, shake, shake until the ice cubes are mostly dissolved. Pour into an 8-ounce glass, and serve. Note that the larger the container you use to shake, the more foam you will have.

ATHENS CAF

Info: 32-07 30th Ave., Astoria; 718-626-2164; athenscafeny.com

See You There: Take the N or Q train to the 30th Ave. stop

(photo by Janis Turk)

Taverna Kyclades

A quick way to begin an argument between Astorians is by asking them to choose their favorite Greek restaurant, a difficult task since Astoria is the Greek food capital of New York. With so many Greek restaurants to choose from, when Im forced to pick between neighborhood faves like Agnanti and Stamatis, just to name a few, Ill profess to being a Kyclades gal.

The restaurant name is derived from the Cyclades, a group of Greek islands south of the mainland. With its turquoise interior and seafood-heavy menu, this restaurant has an authentic Greek vibe. Restaurant patron Larry Finkelstein said it best when he labeled Kyclades as the BMW of restaurants due to the huge portion sizes, the fact the restaurant runs like a well-oiled machine, and the owners magnificent character in customer interactions.