Mendes - My Lisbon: a cookbook from Portugals city of light

Gazetteer

This map is just the briefest illustration of my favorite cafs, tascas, restaurants, food shops, and drinking spots in Lisbon. There have been many exciting new openings in recent years, but here I have focused on the classics. I hope it will be useful as you walk through the streets, uncovering new treasures of your own.

Cafs and pastelarias

Chiado Caffe

Manteigaria Fbrica de Pastis de Nata

Caf A Brasileira

Caf Nicola and Pastelaria Suia

Pastis de Belm

Restaurants, tabernas, and tascas

Sol e Pesca

Taberna da Rua das Flores

Belcanto

Bairro do Avillez

Restaurante Alfaia

Gambrinus

Ramiro

O Cardoso do Estrela de Ouro

Stop do Bairro

Bars and quiosques

Quiosque do Adamastor

Quiosque do Prncipe Real

Bairro Alto Hotel Bar

A Ginjinha

Food shopping

Mercado da Ribeira

Mercado Biolgico do Prncipe Real

Garrafeira Nacional

Manteigaria Silva

Mercado 31 de Janeiro in Saldanha

Cafs and pastelarias

Chiado Caffe The jesuitas here are simply some of the best in LisbonI always pop back before leaving the city to take a box home for the kids.

Rua do Loreto 61

Manteigaria Fbrica de Pastis de Nata These are the best pastis, in my opinion. Come and watch the cooks pipe in the filling, then stand at the counter to wolf a couple down.

Rua do Loreto 2

Caf A Brasileira This is a time-warp glory, all redwood panels and mirrors and waiters dressed in black and white. A tourist trap? Absolutely, but justifiably so; this is where our national poet Fernando Pessoa took his bica. A tip: It is much cheaper inside than on the terrace.

Rua Garrett 120

Caf Nicola and Pastelaria Suia This old-school caf and nearby pastelaria sit on the edge of majestic Rossio Square, and theyre great for watching the Lisbon world go by.

Caf Nicola, Praa Dom Pedro IV 2425

Pastelaria Suia, Praa Dom Pedro IV 96104

Pastis de Belm The commercial pastis de nata were invented at this place, which is worth a pilgrimage for the blue-and-white tiles and the ambiance aloneeven if its debatable whether they are the very best custard tarts.

Rua Belm 8492

Restaurants, tabernas, and tascas

Sol e Pesca A colorful fishing tackle shop that has become a bar selling all kinds of tinned fish. Open a tin there and then, and eat the contents with bread and a cold glass of wine or beer alongside.

Rua Nova do Carvalho 44

Taberna da Rua das Flores One of my treasured places in Lisbon, this cute little taberna does really incredible food. The atmosphere is great at night but youll need to stand in line for a table.

Rua das Flores 103

Belcanto This two-Michelin-starred restaurant was a game changer in Lisbon when Jos Avillez opened it, and it remains one of the best destinations in the city for truly creative food.

Largo de So Carlos 10

Bairro do Avillez Jos Avillezs new restaurant has exciting food, a fun setting, and great drinks. The more casual taberna in the front offers cured meats, salads, and other local food that can be eaten on the spot or bought to go.

Rua Nova da Trindade 18

Restaurante Alfaia I love this place in funky Bairro Alto for really good, reasonably priced Portuguese food. Sometimes I pop into their shop across the street for petiscos and wine.

Travessa da Queimada 22

Gambrinus A fabulous old restaurant that gives you the feeling of stepping into a different century. The pregos and croquetes are some of the best in Lisbon.

Rua das Portas de Santo Anto 23

Ramiro The quality at this legendary seafood restaurant is amazing; you need to wait in line but its worth it. Remember to finish your meal with a prego.

Avenida Almirante Reis 1

O Cardoso do Estrela de Ouro Along the 28 tram line, in the rather lovely Graa neighborhood, this really is a traditional tasca, where Dona Laura and Dona Emilia sing in the kitchen and Senhor Cardoso looks after front of house. Come before noon to taste fresh-fried salgados and beat the lunchtime rush.

Rua da Graa 22

Stop do Bairro This vibrant little tasca is a bit out of the way in Campo de Ourique, but its near the end of the 28 tram line and worth seeking out. It is decked out with football scarves, but unlike many places in Lisbon it doesnt favor any one team. I like to go and ogle what the people beside me are eating before I order. There are lots of Angolan influences on the menu and the big, yellow-colored homemade fries are to die for. The desserts are also good.

Rua Tenente Ferreira Duro 55A

Bars and quiosques

Quiosque do Adamastor This quiosque by the Miradouro de Santa Caterina is named after the mythical giant who features in Lus de Camess famous narrative poem Os Lusades, and youll find a sculpture of him looking out over the River Tejo. The view from here is great.

Rua de Santa Catarina

Quiosque do Prncipe Real I love sitting outside at an old quiosque like this on a balmy night, cooling my brow against an ice-cold porto tnico or beer before sipping it.

Praa Prncipe Real

Bairro Alto Hotel Bar This central hotel has one of the best roof terraces in the entire city, with views out across the river to the statue of Cristo Rei and the Ponte 25 de Abril. They have some lovely wines on offer, but it gets very busy so just be aware that you might have to wait.

Praa Lus de Cames 2

A Ginjinha You can try the sweet ginjinha liqueur, which is made from sour cherries, in a little shot glass here. Ask for it com ela (with a cherry) or sim ela (no cherry). Its always bustling with locals, even in the morning.

Largo So Domingos 8

Food shopping

Mercado da Ribeira One of the oldest markets in Lisbon, this offers amazing produce at both the market stalls and in the small shops around the perimeter. The market closes at lunchtime but it adjoins the more commercial Time Out food court, which stays open late; the food court boasts quiosques from some of the citys big chefs.

Avenida 24 de Julho

Mercado Biolgico do Prncipe Real This is my favorite farmers market, right in the center of Lisbon. Its a fantastic place to wander on a Saturday morning.

Jardim do Prncipe Real

Garrafeira Nacional A wonderful old shop with a good portfolio of Portugals best wines.

Rua de Santa Justa 18

Manteigaria Silva A great place to buy cured meats from different areas of Portugal. Stand at one of the old barrels eating your selection, or ask for them to vacuum-pack it to go.

Rua Dom Anto De Almada 1

Mercado 31 de Janeiro in Saldanha This is a real working market with fabulous characters who have spent a lifetime here selling some of the best fish youll ever see.

Rua Engenheiro Vieira da Silva

Acknowledgments

This book was made possible by a huge amount of hard work, passion, and perseverance, and the people below are the ones who made it a reality.

My thanks go to: Audrey Gillan for being a force of nature; Andrew Montgomery for the amazing photographs and all the cups of tea; Laoise Casey for being able to translate the strange food language I speak; Andr Toscano for being there, trying and always striving to help; Clia Pedroso for the enduring support and passion for this project, and also for being a wonderful host; Alice Pedroso for taking me back to childhood and showing me how to make the best