Map Key
Trail Name
Day & Section Hikes Pacific Crest Trail: Washington
1st EDITION 2010
Copyright 2010 by Adrienne Schaefer
Front cover photographs copyright by John Schaefer (top) and author (bottom)
Interior photographs by author
Maps by Scott McGrew and author
Cover design by Scott McGrew
Book design by Ian Szymkowiak/Palace Press International
ISBN 978-0-89997-509-2
Manufactured in the United States of America
Published by: | Wilderness Press |
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Cover photos: | Lyman Lake (top, Hike 25) and Nannie Ridge (bottom, Hike 5) |
Frontispiece: | Descending into Plummer Basin (Hike 26) |
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form, or by any means electronic, mechanical, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher, except for brief quotations used in reviews.
SAFETY NOTICE: Although Wilderness Press and the author have made every attempt to ensure that the information in this book is accurate at press time, they are not responsible for any loss, damage, injury, or inconvenience that may occur to anyone while using this book. You are responsible for your own safety and health while in the wilderness. The fact that a trail is described in this book does not mean that it will be safe for you. Be aware that trail conditions can change from day to day. Always check local conditions, know your own limitations, and consult a map.
For my familyI love you all
and thank you for your support.
Acknowledgments
I WOULD FIRST LIKE TO THANK Amanda and Judy Ford for discovering this opportunity and encouraging me to pursue it. I am forever grateful to both my parents for supporting me through all of my crazy endeavors and owe my mom special thanks for hiking on trails she would have rather read about. I could fill an entire page with things I would like to thank my husband John for, but sticking by my side through the ups and downs of this bumpy adventure is probably the most important.
Tyler and Lindsay Kellet get special recognition for spending a semi-hypothermic afternoon on Little Giant Pass with me, and their words of advice helped make this book what it is. Numerous folks kept me company on the trails, including Aaron Sherred, Mike and Maurisa Descheemaeker, Reggie Descheemaeker, Rebecca Lofgren, Terri and Stacy, Jen Glyzenski, and Carla. Thank you to the crew from Carlton, John Jorgenson, Surya and Bhavesh Dinodica, and Zeke and Kathleen Hirschstein for sharing their amazing garden (are you sure its organic?) and their homes with me. My good friends at Mount Rainier National Park kept me entertained on rest days, and Rebecca A., Andy, and Barry (you were my saving grace up at Three Lakes) made me feel right at home. While I am a country bumpkin at heart, theres nothing quite like a night of good wine and great food after a days hike; thanks to Bob and Sarah White for a memorable weekend in Portland. When I couldnt drag anyone out, I could always count on my parents dog, Maggie, to join me. Come rain or shine, her enthusiasm to be out was contagious. I should also include a few other four-legged friends: Hazel, Cali, Juneau, and Nez.
Thank you to all the men and women who braved the mountains when they were truly wild and laid the foundation for what we have today. My hiking experiences would not have been nearly as enjoyable if not for the hard work of the National Park Service and U.S. Forest Service employees who maintain our roads, trails, and bridges. Researching, writing about, and hiking these trails could not have been done without the help of countless other resources, including Dr. Fred T. Darvill Jr.s Hiking the North Cascades, Ira and Vicky Spring and Harvey Mannings 100 Hikes series, Chester Marlers East of the Divide, and Andy Selterss Pacific Crest Trail: Oregon and Washington , also published by Wilderness Press. Their words were truly inspiring.
To all of the other people who touched my life in one way or another during this incredible journey through the Washington Cascades, thank you.
Preface
J UST OUTSIDE M OUNT S T. H ELENS N ATIONAL V OLCANIC M ONUMENT lies the small town of Cougar, Washington. It is your typical mountain town, complete with a diner, tavern, convenience store, and RV park (actually two of them). Normally I would continue down the road to a more primitive site, but exhaustion prevailed and the next thing I knew I was driving by the neon flashing vacancy light of the RV park.
I knocked on the door and was immediately greeted by a friendly couple. They invited me into their home and I told them I was looking for a tent site. They gave me a quick head to toe, and I suddenly became aware of how I must look; my legs were covered with a thick coat of dust, my hair was matted from too many days under a hat, and my clothes were a wrinkled, dirty mess. The woman spoke first, saying, Well, it looks like you need to treat yourself to a good nights sleep. I informed her I was on a budget and she waved her hand, telling me not to worry. The next thing I knew, I was unlocking the door to a sweet little cabin with clean towels in hand.
Throughout my time exploring Washingtons Pacific Crest Trail (PCT), spontaneous moments like this were part of what made my trips so memorable. Whether it was fresh goat cheese from a gardener in Stehekin, homemade honey from a street vendor in Hood River, colorful veggies from the Twisp Farmers Market, or a hot cup of espresso from the hardware store in Plain, each mountain community surrounding the PCT has something unique to offer.
This book is a culmination of my experiences along a trail full of culture, history, and breathtaking scenery. Selecting 30 of my favorite hikes was no easy task. Like the communities that surround the PCT, each trail offers something special that sets it apart from the others. I found myself on numerous occasions saying, I had no idea this place was so beautiful. This hike is definitely going in the book. Or perhaps it was a bit of history that caught my attention, such as finding an old sheepherder trail or seeing the remnants of an abandoned fire lookout.
In the end, I whittled them down to 30 spectacular hikes that stretched from the mighty waters of the Columbia River to the majestic peaks of the North Cascades. The actual task of hiking all the trails was no easy feat. I would be lying if I said my trip to Chain Lakes in a torrential downpour was a highlight of my hiking career. But as time fades, memories of napping on sun-baked rocks, taking a dunk in alpine lakes, or watching alpenglow dance on snowcapped peaks replace those less desirable moments.
This book will inspire you to discover a side of Washington you may have never seen, whether youve lived here your whole life or are just passing through. Hike with open eyes and your journey through this beautifully diverse state will bring you as much fulfillment as I experienced while hiking these trails.
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