HIKING
THE PACIFIC
CREST TRAIL
NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA
HIKING
THE PACIFIC
CREST TRAIL
NORTHERN
CALIFORNIA
SECTION HIKING FROM TUOLUMNE MEADOWS TO DONOMORE PASS
PHILIP KRAMER
In memory of my uncle Erics laugh, and for the happiest hiker I know, my mother.
Mountaineers Books is the publishing division of The Mountaineers, an organization founded in 1906 and dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.
1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134
800.553.4453, www.mountaineersbooks.org
Copyright 2018 by Philip Kramer
All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior written permission of the publisher.
Printed in China
Distributed in the United Kingdom by Cordee, www.cordee.co.uk
First edition, 2018
Copyeditor: Kirsten Colton, www.thefriendlyredpen.com
Design: Peggy Egerdahl
Layout: Jennifer Shontz, www.redshoedesign.com
Cartographer: Pease Press
All photographs by the author unless otherwise noted
Cover photograph: A hazy summer sunset lights up the granite domes above the Tuolumne River.
Frontispiece: A hiker enjoys the seemingly endless flowers and firs north of Barker Pass (section 3).
The background maps for this book were produced using the online map viewer CalTopo.
For more information, visit caltopo.com.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Kramer, Philip, author.
Title: Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail: Northern California : section hiking from Tuolumne Meadows to Donomore Pass / Philip Kramer.
Description: First edition. | Seattle, Washington: Mountaineers Books, [2018] | Includes index.
Identifiers: LCCN 2017016905 (print) | LCCN 2017022900 (ebook) | ISBN 9781594858789 (paperback) | ISBN 9781594858796 (ebook)
Subjects: LCSH: HikingCalifornia, NorthernGuidebooks. | HikingPacific Crest TrailGuidebooks. | BackpackingCalifornia, NorthernGuidebooks. | BackpackingPacific Crest TrailGuidebooks. | California, NorthernGuidebooks. | Pacific Crest TrailGuidebooks.
Classification: LCC GV199.42.C2 (ebook) | LCC GV199.42.C2 K73 2018 (print) | DDC 796.5109794dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2017016905
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ISBN (paperback): 978-1-59485-878-9
ISBN (ebook): 978-1-59485-879-6
CONTENTS
Mount Shasta, seen here from the Marble Mountain Wilderness (), is a mark of progress for hundreds of miles in Northern California.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
IN 2013 I THRU-HIKED the Pacific Crest Trail, all 2650-ish miles of it. When I started north from the Mexican border, I was alone, a little giddy, a little afraid, and certain that this would be a solitary pursuita period of monumental self-reliance. By the time I reached Canada six months later, it was clear that such a major undertaking benefits as much from the support and involvement of others as it does from ones own perseverance and effort. Writing this guidebook has been no different; I simply couldnt have done it without many helping hands (and feet).
First and foremost, I want to thank my wife, Erin. Two weeks after signing my book contract with Mountaineers, we learned we were expectingthe happiest surprise of my life. As most new parents would agree, having your partner hike 740 miles through wilderness two states away isnt exactly ideal, especially when youre the one at home with a sleepless newborn baby. But we did it, or, more accurately, Erin did it. I am so grateful for the endless support she gave me, all while taking on the many duties of a new motheralways with grace, beauty, and joy.
Next up, Id like to thank my friend Emily White for connecting me with Mountaineers Books in the first place. To Laura Shauger at Mountaineers Books: thanks for taking the time to informally vet me (over a beer or two) and for offering excellent advice and support all along the way. And thanks to Kate Rogers, also at Mountaineers Books, who, despite my nonexistent track record as a writer, signed me on as an author and let me out into the wild world of publishinga rather large gamble, Id say! Im also appreciative of the help, advice, and understanding my fellow PCT guidebook authors offered; thanks, Tami Asars, Eli Boschetto, and Shawnt Salabert!
Thank you to the Pacific Crest Trail Association for all that they do for hikers, for the trail itself, and for the wilderness experience. Special thanks goes to Justin Kooyman and Jack Haskel, both at the PCTA, for answering my questions and keeping me up to date about the Northern California PCT. Id also like to give a heartfelt thanks to the employees of the National Park Service and Forest Service for their assistance. Many of them considered my countless phone calls, emails, and questions to be part of their job and often asked to remain nameless when I requested to thank them in the book.
I (and my marriage) would like to thank my immediate family (my parents, Chuck and Sue, and my sisters, Sarah, Anna, and Emily) and extended family (Sara, a.k.a. mama-dada; Carl; Robin; and Jerry) for helping my wife and daughter while I was away. The hours, days, and weeks of childcare each of you provided made all the difference in my ability to maintain a semblance of balance between work and family.
I had excellent hiking buddies along the way, and Im grateful for their companionship. They include my parents, my sister Sarah Vander Beek, Patrick Coughlin, Mike Freeman, John Yu, and PCT hikers Low & Slow and Cookie. Speaking of PCT hikers, I need to thank a few of my fellow 2013 thru-hikers, whose support and laughter got me all the way to Canada (which arguably got me this job!): Sunshine, Boulder, Scooter, Dog, Coincidence, Hot Tub, Outburst, and 30 Pack.
Lastly, the following people and businesses helped me in a variety of ways during this project, often going above and beyond by giving long rides to remote trailheads, feeding and housing me, and generally supporting my efforts: Dunsmuir Lodge, Alderbrook Manor, Pipers Mom, Derek Beverly, Kenobe, Karla Shelley and her husband, Michael, and the Halterman family.
INTRODUCTION
A PATH OF UNENDING adventure, the Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail is a legendary long-distance footpath stretching from the sun-beaten sands of Southern Californias deserts to the verdant forests and meadows below Washingtons glacier-capped peaks, and even into Canada. Along the way, it climbs into the stark alpine world of the Sierra Nevada and follows the Range of Lights trailing granite northward into the heart of Northern California and the volcanic Cascade Range. Known simply as the PCT, the approximately 2650-mile-long trail is a place to make memories, live differently, test yourself physically and mentally, dream, and make the best kinds of friendshungry ones!