Salabert - Hiking the Pacific Crest Trail: Southern California

HIKING
THE PACIFIC CREST TRAIL

SOUTHERN
CALIFORNIA

SHAWNT SALABERT

Mountaineers Books is the publishing division of The Mountaineers, an organization founded in 1906 and dedicated to the exploration, preservation, and enjoyment of outdoor and wilderness areas.

1001 SW Klickitat Way, Suite 201, Seattle, WA 98134

800.553.4453, www.mountaineersbooks.org

Copyright 2017 by Shawnt Salabert

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in any form, or by any electronic, mechanical, or other means, without the prior written permission of the publisher.

Printed in China

Distributed in the United Kingdom by Cordee, www.cordee.co.uk

First edition, 2017

Copyeditor: Sarah Gorecki

Design and layout: Peggy Egerdahl

Cartographer: Pease Press Cartography

All photographs by author unless noted otherwise.

Cover photograph: Joshua tree in the Scodie Mountains

Frontispiece: Looking south along Bubbs Creek in Kings Canyon National Park

The background of the leg maps for this book were produced using the online map viewer CalTopo. For more information, visit caltopo.com.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file for this title.

A NOTE ABOUT SAFETY

Safety is an important concern in all outdoor activities. No guidebook can alert you to every hazard or anticipate the limitations of every reader. Therefore, the descriptions of roads, trails, routes, and natural features in this book are not representations that a particular place or excursion will be safe for your party. When you follow any of the routes described in this book, you assume responsibility for your own safety. Under normal conditions, such excursions require the usual attention to traffic, road and trail conditions, weather, terrain, the capabilities of your party, and other factors. Keeping informed on current conditions and exercising common sense are the keys to a safe, enjoyable outing.

Mountaineers Books titles may be purchased for corporate, educational, or other promotional sales, and our authors are available for a wide range of events. For information on special discounts or booking an author, contact our customer service at 800-553-4453 or .

ISBN (paperback): 978-1-59485-880-2

ISBN (ebook): 978-1-59485-881-9

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I SAY WITH NO EXAGGERATION that the time I spent on the Pacific Crest Trailand on this project itselfchanged my life. Ill tell you the whole story over margaritas and mole enchiladas some time, friends, but the miles I walked and the process I experienced helped steer my proverbial ship back to center. Life is good.

To that end, Im overflowing with gratitude. First and foremost, thanks to my wonderful mom, Rebecca Salabert-Jagiello, for not only her unconditional love, but also for setting me on an adventurous course from the very start by encouraging a younger me to Dare to be different! I did, and I do.

This book wouldnt exist if the inimitable Casey Schreiner of Modern Hiker (and guidebook) fame hadnt snuck some of my writing over to the folks at Mountaineers BooksI owe you for eternity, friend.

On that note, thanks to Kirsten Colton for initiating contact; to Kate Rogers for believing in me and acting as my Bacon of Reason; to Laura Shauger for her endless calm, patience, and insight; to fellow Wisconsinite Sarah Gorecki for her flawless copy editing; and to the entire Mountaineers Books team for its outstanding efforts.

Im also greatly indebted to my fellow series authorsand friendsTami Doo-Dah Asars (Ill dance with you at 13,000 feet anytime), Philip Kramer, and Eli Boschetto, without whom Id have tossed myself off an invisible cliff long ago.

Limitless gratitude is extended to Michael Nieves, Andrea Litton, and Allysun Marshall at Sugaroo! for the endless support, understanding, caring, and cheerleading.

I enjoyed extraordinary trail company and other assistance from Alexis Owens, Alisa Le, Angela Chung (sage fount of inspiration), Bob Myers, Brady Houlberg, Brooke Black Just-Olesen (you were with me every step of the way, Scout), Dave Hansen, Dongwater, Gabe Warrior Miles, Hailey Cobb, Homer Tom, Jack Thompson (there is no more passionate desert enthusiast than he), Jayson Fuck off Lauden, Jim Clement at VVR, Justin Bruno (winner, Most Miles and Masochism), Laura Jones Martel, Katherine Yi, Kathleen Katwalk Cobb (one of the trails biggest gifts), Katy McIlvaine, Kit Gillespie, Kolby Condor Kirk, Kris Kamrath, Kristina Rojdev, Legend (and Gypsy), Leighton MacGyver Cline, Mads Black Just-Olesen, Marc Weitz, Merrell, Michelle Faucheux, Mr. Burns, Niels Quist, Pamela Pamellama Zoolalian (our memories could fill another book!), Ray Maverick Chang, Rebecca Melrose, Rodney Newman, Sara Cline, Sarah Schuh Quist, Saveria Tilden (motivator and buttsaver), Scott Devilfish Matheson, Scott Turner (fellow guidebook author and highly overqualified research assistant), Suzanne Hall, Tiffani Bruno, Travis Mr. Clean Palovchik, the Vidette Meadows Trail Angels, and to all the nice folks who gave me a lift no matter how rank I smelled.

To Anna Glen, who graciously offered her time and world-class retouching skills: thank you a hundred times over. I promise I will never make you hike.

Exceptional thanks to everyone who kindly shared their knowledge: Anitra Kass and Jack Haskell of the PCTA; Trail Gorillas Dave Fleischman, Kevin Corcoran, Jim Richter, Jerry Stone, and Don Line; Tory Elmore of The Wildlands Conservancy; and every Forest Service, county park, state park, and national park ranger or representative who picked up the phone or listened with patiencebonus points to USFSs Jeannette Granger and SEKIs Ranger Rick Sanger.

A trail marker welcomes hikers after the Sand Fire swept through Soledad Canyon.

Utmost praise to Lon Halfmile Cooper and Matt Double Tap Parkeryour kindness to hikers is unparalleled.

To all other friends and family (including my spectacular sister, Adrienne Salabert, and awesome stepdad, Mike Jagiello) who cheered me on throughout this processthey dont allow me enough words to expound here, but know that I felt your support and am indebted to you for life.

This book is for all of you, and for anyone who dreams of wandering free.

INTRODUCTION

THE SIMPLE MAXIM,The trail provides, burns bright in the hearts of many backpackers who strike out toward adventure. But what does the trail provideor more specifically, what does this trail provide? The Pacific Crest National Scenic Trail (PCT) offers a spectacular footpath tracing a mostly high route from the Southern California desert to the snowbound mountains of the Washington/Canada border. But it also provides so much more: the opportunity to experience peace, joy, love, reflection, accomplishment, inspiration, and transformation.