Paul - Dining at Dusk: Tapas, antipasti, mezze, ceviche and apéritifs from around the world

PREFACE

The approaching dusk starts with a unique light, when a golden evening glow gradually blends into slowly darkening blue skies. A mild breeze might make its way through streets, alleys and gardens, gently cooling roofs and terraces still hot from the days sun.

Lights start coming on everywhere. The evening begins to take on colour as the citys noise softens, merging with the first beats of the nights music. Theres laughter, clinking glasses, joie de vivre . Saucepans are moved onto cookers, fires are lit. Aromas of herbs and spices waft through the streets not long now before there will be a bite to eat!

Dining at dusk is magical. The days work is done. We can let go and make time for a cool drink, accompanied by small, uncomplicated dishes. Its time to clock off. Time for friends and family. Time to gather and enjoy. Its the perfect time for stories, for listening, talking, marvelling and laughing.

I have experienced this magic time and again during my culinary travels: all over the world, people gather around the blue hour, meet at bars, food counters, pubs, izakayas, bodegas and bistros, at cervejarias and tapas bars for a drink, a few snacks and nibbles. Its relaxed and full of joy.

Many countries around the world have a distinctive bar food culture that forms an essential part of their culinary heritage. From Italian cicchetti, Spanish tapas and Greek mezze through to British pub food and well beyond, to Portugal, Latin America and Mexico, with tacos, tortillas and ceviche, across the Caribbean to India, China and Australia everybody loves quickly and easily prepared delicacies shared with friends and guests in a casual environment, whether at home or at a bar or party. Moreover, these snacks are surprisingly light and healthy, with plenty of fresh herbs, salads and vegetables, some of them vegetarian or even vegan, some with high-quality fish and grilled meats. We find exciting combinations with intriguing spices, new aromas and the typical flavours of national cuisines.

In this book, we follow the course of the setting sun on a culinary journey around the world for the golden hour, introducing us to delightful snacks, nibbles, delicacies, bar and finger foods. Uncomplicated treats are served with a generous side of music, an essential part of any sunset. This book therefore invites you a musical journey as well as a culinary one, with suggestions ranging from sophisticated jazz and lounge music to soul and funk, Latin and Brazilian tunes, chansons and beautiful traditionals.

The old often meets the new as the dusk approaches, and contemporary cuisine for this beautiful time of the day is a true discovery: relaxed, simple and comforting at any time of the day and a perfect match for modern life.

I hope youll enjoy this exciting culinary journey through dusk-time dining all over the world. The evening belongs to us as does the day!

STEVAN PAUL

OKA IA

Fish salad

INGREDIENTS

(serves 4)

300400 g fresh cod, deboned

1 red chilli

Juice of 1 lime

Salt

1 organic Lebanese cucumber

150 g grape tomatoes

12 spring onions

1 small red onion

20 g fresh ginger

150 ml (2/3 cup) unsweetened coconut milk

46 sprigs coriander (cilantro)

Optional: edible flowers (in the photo: thyme and chives flowers)

Days on Samoa, the tiny island state in the south-western Pacific, begin on the east coast of Upolu Island, on the heavenly beaches of Lalomanu. There, sunrises are just as spectacular as the sunsets, when the skies above the Polynesian islands start to glow in rich blue, golden orange and fiery red hues. Its the perfect time for a bowl of oka ia, a traditional Samoan fish salad that combines the delicate acidity of South American ceviche () with the mild creaminess of Hawaiian poke.

Dice the fish flesh into bite-sized pieces. Mince the chilli, removing the seeds if you prefer less heat. Combine the minced chilli, lime juice and diced fish. Season with salt, cover and set aside to marinate for at least 30 minutes.

Slice the cucumber, season with salt and set aside. Slice the grape tomatoes thickly and sprinkle with a little salt. Cut the spring onions into fine rings. Set aside a little of the green rings for garnish. Peel the onion, finely dice and season lightly with salt. Grate the ginger and stir into the coconut milk together with a pinch of salt.

Remove the fish from the lime marinade and drain. Transfer to a bowl together with the remaining ingredients and top with the coconut milk. Divide among plates. Garnish with the reserved spring onions, picked-off coriander leaves and the flowers, if using, and serve.

MANUIA!

Samoans like to drink kava, a non-alcoholic, yet calming to mildly intoxicating beverage made of yaqona, the dried, powdered roots of the pepper plant, combined with water and traditionally served in wooden bowls. However, this dish also goes well with a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.