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Copyright 2021 by Geoffrey Weill
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Names: Weill, Geoffrey, 1949- author.
Title: All abroad : a memoir of travel and obsession / Geoffrey Weill.
Description: Madison, Wisconsin : The University of Wisconsin Press, [2021]
Identifiers: LCCN 2020017002 | ISBN 9780299330804 (cloth)
Subjects: LCSH: Weill, Geoffrey, 1949- | Travel agentsBiography.
Classification: LCC G154.5.W45 A3 2021 | DDC 338.4/791092 [B]dc23
LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2020017002
ISBN-13: 978-0-299-33088-0 (electronic)
To my cousin TERRY,
without whom this book would never have been started.
To my tolerant and devoted wife, NOA,
without whom this book would never have been finished.
To my childrenBENJAMIN, ZO, and LIAM
who hate my being on the road so often but who enjoyed and enjoy traveling as much as I.
For my part, I travel not to go anywhere, but to go.
I travel for travels sake. The great affair is to move.
ROBERT LOUIS STEVENSON,
Travels with a Donkey in the Cvennes, 1878
Preface
This is not a travel book per se; it is a memoir of how an obsession was fashioned. Memoirs are often about celebrities or politicians or generals or royalty or about those who have a claim to some measure of fame. Other memoirs are of interesting nobodies who, at times, because of the charm or uniqueness of the story or the writing, become notable. This is a story of an English boy then man in desperate need of escape from a childhood and adolescence that were outwardly charmed, all calm and happiness, yet inwardly all of these were laced with claustrophobic insecurity, regimentation, blame, and torment. Others might have turned to crime, to booze, to drugs. But because my need to escape started earlylong before any of those avenues would have been remotely achievableI sought solace elsewhere, ultimately in travel.
My fancies were not about touring the Taj Mahal or climbing the Matterhorn or admiring Iguaz Falls. My fascination, like Robert Louis Stevensons, was about the actual journeys. Briefly, I also flirted with theater, ballet, Zionismeach a kind of escapebut those all paled in the wake of traveling. It wasnt about the sights. Mine was and is an obsession with the conveyances, the planes, the airports, the ships, the trains... and the hotels that await journeys end.
Moreover, there was no dream of actually being a pilot or being a train driver or being a Basil Fawlty commanding a quaint hotel on the English shore. No, it was all about being a passenger. About being a guest. There were no diagrams of engine rooms or locomotives: it was a torrent of timetables, schedules, hotel guides, and glossy brochures. There was not the slightest interest in the sort of travel that required hiking boots, backpacks,and tents. It was the getting there, the staying there, the feeling at home on six continents. Ultimately, I was able to turn my curiously eclectic obsession into a career.
It is a memoir that is thematic rather than chronological. Yet to assist the reader in keeping pace with what and how and where, each chapter is titled not numerically or with a name but by the year to which much of it refers. It is perhaps a somewhat curious tale, made even more curious by the torrent of eccentric characters with which it is inundated. It is an account full of events, distresses, injustices, joys, friendships, relationships, discoveries, sexual awakenings, illnesses, deaths, histories, and happeningsof which many are tangentially, directly, or literally associated with travel. It is a twentieth-century story, but one that has lashings of the Victoriana and Edwardiana that had expired long before my birth. And it is a story whose crucial escape is, at the age of twenty-three, my move to the United States. Which is where and how and when, in 1973, this actual story takes flight.
Several but by no means all names in this memoir have been changed so as
I am immensely grateful to Joel Gonchar, Raphael Kadushin, Dennis Lloyd, Janet K. Rodgers, and Asher Weill, without whose support this book could never have seen the light of day.
Check-In
THE PHOTOGRAPH IS BLACK AND WHITE. I am smiling sheepishly and I am kneeling in my pajamas and my woolly robe behind a card table erected in my bedroom in our flat in London. The table is covered with a variety of objects arranged as if in a store window display. There is a dark-green leather writing case from my cousins in Paris. There is a tan leather box emblazoned with my initials, containing two hairbrushes. There is a Waterman fountain pen from Colina disappointment to my mother, who caustically commented he should have given me a watch. There are two pairs of gold cuff links. There are at least ten books, a brass letter opener, and matching bookmark. And a stud box. There is a portable typewriter from my parents and a German-made Kodak camera from my brother. There is a navy-blue leather writing case for traveling. With a squeeze of its golden hinges, it snaps open to reveal a temporary writing desk, complete with cream-colored blotter and pouches bulging with matching cream stationery. There is a large pigskin folder lined with moir silk. It looks like an attach case, but actually its for pajamas. Theres a leather map holder complete with Perspex window for outlining a route with a grease pencil. There is a prayer book bound in brass.
It is January 1963 and it is the morning after my Bar Mitzvah. I am posing with my giftsor some of my gifts. For it would have been unthinkable to have photographed the checks, including the breathtakingly exotic check for fifty dollars from my aunt, uncle, and cousin in America, or the check for ten pounds from Shirley and Lionel, or the check for ten shillings and sixpencehalf a guineafrom cousin Harry Isaacs, a sum that even in 1963 was absurd. In retrospect, I see clearly how many of the gifts were,even then, purposefully connected to traveling, albeit travel with a sense of the chronically dated: the stationery folder ideal for letters penned in my polished mahogany compartment on the Berlin to Baghdad railway. The pajama case perfect for the cabin steward to unpack in my stateroom aboard the Mauretania. The map planner suitable for an outing in my 1928 Hillman roadster. The case snugly holding my hairbrushes after a two-handed Jeeves-and-Wooster brilliantining. The camera. Even the portable typewriter. But my favorite of all the gifts is not in the picture. It was a gift from my father: a one-year subscription to the ABC World Airways Guide