Roux Michel - Eggs: The essential guide to cooking with eggs, over 120 recipes

Special thanks to my son, Alain Roux, and Chris Lelliott, my senior sous-chef at The Waterside Inn, for their help with the food for photography and recipe testing.

All spoon measures are level unless otherwise stated.

Use fresh herbs, sea salt and freshly ground black pepper unless otherwise suggested.

Egg sizes are given where they are critical, otherwise use medium eggs, preferably organic or free-range. Anyone who is pregnant or in a vulnerable health group should avoid recipes that use raw egg whites or lightly cooked eggs.

Timings are for fan-assisted ovens. If you are using a conventional oven, increase the temperature by 1015C ( Gas mark). Use an oven thermometer to check the temperature.

Editorial director Anne Furniss
Creative director Mary Evans
Project editor Janet Illsley
Translator and editor Kate Whiteman
Designer Lucy Gowans
Photographer Martin Brigdale
Props stylist Helen Trent
Production Rebecca Short & Tom Moore

This edition published in 2018 by Quadrille, an imprint of Hardie Grant Publishing

Quadrille
52-54 Southwark Street
London SE1 1UN
quadrille.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publishers and copyright holders. The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

Cataloguing in Publication Data: a catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Text Michel Roux 2005
Photography Martin Brigdale 2005
Design and layout Quadrille 2018

eISBN 978 1 78713 284 9

Contents

I respect the egg for its genius in all forms of cooking. In my view, it is an undervalued food, invariably overshadowed by expensive, luxury ingredients. So, I have decided that it is time for me to write a book about this most fragile and defenceless of all foods, to bestow the egg with the honour it deserves.

Eggs have been much maligned over the past two decades, variously branded high in cholesterol, difficult to digest, carriers of salmonella and the like. But, in reality, they are highly nutritious and simple and quick to cook. An egg is a treasure chest of substances that are essential for a balanced diet rich in proteins, lipids, vitamins and minerals, including iron and zinc. It provides first-class protein, is low in sodium, and a medium egg contains only 78 calories. Ideal for breakfast, lunch, tea, dinner and supper, eggs are also great in sandwiches, an ideal picnic food, and they are essential in the preparation of so many different desserts, cakes and sauces.

Eggs have always fascinated me. I love their oval, sometimes elongated shape, the purity of their lines and the tint of their shells ranging from natural white to pale nut brown. When I hold an egg in my hand, I feel that it represents the image of the universe, and it awakens and increases my respect for life.

At the age of barely three, I would rush outside whenever I heard Julie, our family hen, cackling to announce that she was about to lay. I would gently collect the still warm new-laid egg and hurry to the kitchen with it. My mother collected the eggs in a large bowl, which would be kept full during the summer; in winter Julie laid only one or two eggs a week but we loved her just the same.

Like bread, eggs are one of lifes most basic and indispensable foods. I first started to discover their professional value when I began my ptisserie apprenticeship at the age of fourteen. Since then, eggs have become my most faithful kitchen companions and they hold no secrets for me. In this book, I share their secrets with you, offering over 130 recipes and ideas for using eggs. Some are classic, others more modern and creative, but all reflect my personal style.

Hens eggs Throughout the world, these are by far the most widely eaten eggs. They are referred to simply as eggs, whereas those laid by other birds are specifically named. Hens eggs vary in weight from 53g (1oz) for a small egg to over 73g (2oz) for a very large one. You can buy lots of different types of hens eggs; for more information, see .

Bantam eggs Weighing 30 40g (11 oz), these are of equal quality to hens eggs. Bantams are small hens, half the size of normal chickens, and their smaller eggs are perfect for babies or dishes where eggs are best featured discreetly.

Duck eggs These weigh 85 95g (33oz) and contain a little more fat than hens eggs. I am very partial to their rich flavour, which is at its best in soft-boiled and scrambled eggs, omelettes and in desserts.

Goose eggs Weighing 180 200g (67oz), these have chalky-white, very hard shells and a more pronounced flavour than hens eggs. Usually I hard-boil and slice them into discs, cover them with a tomato or cheese sauce, and heat in the oven for a few minutes before serving. Sometimes I use them for quiches or my leek flamiche (see ).

Pigeon eggs These only weigh about 15g (oz). They are perfectly pleasant, but nothing special. Indeed I think a pigeon tastes rather better than its egg

Quails eggs These attractive little speckled eggs weigh 15 20g (oz) and they can be cooked in the same way as hens eggs, though for rather less time. The delicate, creamy texture and fine flavour of quails eggs makes them very popular, but it is important to avoid overcooking them, even when hard-boiling. They are perfect for canaps and can be eaten in a single mouthful.

Ostrich eggs At the other end of the scale, these weigh 500 600g (1821oz). The ostrich enabled me to take on the challenge of feeding six people with a single egg, much to the amusement and astonishment of everyone! Ostrich eggs have a pronounced flavour, which needs to be tempered with flavourings like fresh herbs or cheese. They can be used for omelettes and in ptisserie, but the shells are extremely hard and difficult to crack open.

Gulls eggs These are considered a delicacy in England, where it is only permitted to collect them from around the end of April to mid-May (the exact period varies, according to the weather). I love their flavour and prefer to semi hard-boil them very lightly, so that they remain soft in the middle. I serve them as a starter with celery salt or sweet paprika and buttered wholemeal bread. Gulls eggs are not cheap, but they justify their expense.

There are many other varieties of eggs that are less widely available but perfectly edible. Sometimes obtainable from farmers, poulterers, game dealers and high-class grocers, they include the following:

Guinea fowl eggs Weighing about 30g (1oz), these have a delicate flavour and are ideal as a starter or in a salad.

Pheasant eggs Weighing about 30g (1oz), these have a strong flavour and are best served hard-boiled.