Marie-Louise Nosch - Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern & Aegean Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology

Published in the United Kingdom in 2014 by
OXBOW BOOKS
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and in the United States by
OXBOW BOOKS
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Oxbow Books and the individual contributors 2014

Paperback Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-719-3
Digital Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-720-9
Mobi: ISBN 978-1-78297-721-6; PDF: ISBN 978-1-78297-722-3

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Prehistoric, ancient Near Eastern and Aegean textiles and dress : an interdisciplinary anthology / edited
by Mary Harlow, C?cile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch.
1 online resource. -- (Ancient textiles series ; Vol. 18)
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Description based on print version record and CIP data provided by publisher; resource not viewed.
ISBN 978-1-78297-720-9 (epub) -- ISBN 978-1-78297-721-6 (mobi (kindle)) -- ISBN 978-1-78297
722-3 ( pdf) -- ISBN 978-1-78297-719-3 (alk. paper) 1. Textile fabrics, Ancient--Middle East. 2.
Textile fabrics, Ancient--Aegean Sea Region. 3. Clothing and dress--Middle East--History--To 1500.
4. Clothing and dress--Aegean Sea Region--History--To 1500. I. Harlow, Mary, 1956- editor of
compilation. II. Michel, Ccile, editor of compilation. III. Nosch, Marie-Louise, editor of compilation.
NK8907
746.093--dc23

2015000893

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Front cover: Detail of the skirt, showing the loose belt on ivory figurine NAM 6580, Prosymna.

Contents

Paula Mazre

Sophia Vakirtzi, Chaido KoukouliChryssanthaki and Stratis Papadopoulos

Richard Firth

Ariane Thomas

Giulia Baccelli, Benedetta Bellucci and Matteo Vigo

Eleni Konstantinidi-Syvridi

Valentina Gasbarra

Agns Garcia-Ventura

Caroline Sauvage

Salvatore Gaspa

Tina Boloti

Louise Quillien

Orit Shamir

Acknowledgements

This anthology forms part of the Programme International de Collaboration Scientifique (PICS) TexOrMed = Textiles from the Orient to the Mediterranean, between the Danish National Research Foundations Centre for Textile Research and the CNRS Archologies et Sciences de lAntiquit Histoire et Archologie de lOrient Cuniforme research group (20122014). We thank the CNRS and the DNRF for their support.

This anthology, Mary Harlow, Ccile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch (eds), Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology, Ancient Textiles Series 18, Oxbow Books, Oxford (2014) is the first volume of two, which group interdisciplinary contributions to the field of textile research. The second volume is Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch (eds.), Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology, Ancient Textiles Series 19, Oxbow Books, Oxford (2014).

We thank our colleagues at the Centre for Textile Research for their valuable help and advice, especially Dr. Giovanni Fanfani. We also thank Clare Litt, editor in chief, and Sam McLeod at Oxbow Books, for the always smooth collaboration and professional help. Finally, we thank the authors for their excellent contributions, trust and patience.

Copenhagen, December 2013

The editors
Mary Harlow, Ccile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch

Contributors

GIULIA BACCELLI is an archaeologist. She graduated at the University of Florence, Italy with a thesis on spinning and weaving tools found in Tell Barri, Syria. She completed her PhD in 2011 at the University of Tbingen, Germany. Her thesis dealt with the meaning and value of textiles in 2nd millennium BC Syria, particularly focusing on the Royal Grave of Qatna. She has participated in several archaeological excavations in Syria (Tell Barri, Tell Beydar and Qatna) as field archaeologist and she is currently scientific collaborator at the University of Tbingen, Germany.

BENEDETTA BELLUCCI is an art historian and archaeologist. She received her PhD in Ancient Near Eastern Archaeology and Art History at the University of Pavia (Italy) in 2009 with a thesis on the representation of composite creatures on Late Bronze Age seals and seal impressions in Northern Syria and Southern Anatolia. She has participated in several archaeological excavations in Italy, Syria, Turkey, Libya and Qatar as field archaeologist and finds registrar.

TINA BOLOTI is an archaeologist and a PhD candidate at the University of Crete, whose research is co-financed by the European Union (European Social Fund ESF) and Greek national funds (Research Funding Program: Heraclitus II). Her thesis, which examines the functional and symbolic role of cloth and clothing in rituals in the Aegean Late Bronze Age, constitutes a combined study of the related iconography and the Linear B archives. She participates in archaeological research programs of The Archaeological Society at Athens (publication of the Greek excavations at Mycenae) and the Academy of Athens (research in the prehistoric settlement on Koukonisi, Lemnos), while she is collaborator of the Centre for Research & Conservation of Archaeological Textiles.

CHAIDO KOUKOULI-CHRYSANTHAKI is Honorary Ephor of the Greek Ministry of Culture. She has been Director of the 18th Ephoria of Classic and Prehistoric Antiquities of Kavala (North Greece) during which time she has lead major archaeological projects in the vicinity of Kavala, the island of Thassos and East Macedonia in general. Among her several excavation projects, prehistoric research is best represented by the excavation of the Bronze Age settlement of Skala Sotiros on Thassos, co-directorship of the Greek/Bulgarian investigation of Neolithic Promahon-Topolnica and co-directorship of the Greek/French excavation of Dikili Tash. Dr. Koukouli-Chrysnathaki has published extensively on the archaeology of Thassos and the Macedonian region of Northern Greece.

RICHARD FIRTH is a Research Associate of the University of Bristol, since 2005 a collaborator of the Danish National Research Foundations Centre for Textile Research, University of Copenhagen, and more recently an editor for the Cuneiform Digital Library Initiative. He has a degree in Mathematics from Cambridge, a PhD in Elementary Particle Physics from Durham and has had a career in research and development in the UK nuclear power industry. He has written numerous papers on Linear B topics including extensive studies of the find-places of the Linear B tablets at Knossos. More recently he has written a number of papers related to the Ur III textile industry.

AGNS GARCIA-VENTURA is an ancient historian, post-doctoral researcher at Sapienza Universit di Roma (Italy). She was awarded her PhD by the Universitat Pompeu Fabra (Barcelona, Spain) in 2012 with a thesis on the textile production in Ur III Mesopotamia. Her research focuses on textiles and gender in Mesopotamia with particular attention to visual imagery sources such as foundation figurines and to the organisation of work as reflected in the Ur III administrative texts. She is also carrying out research into the historiography of Ancient Near Eastern studies in Spain during the 20th century and into Phoenician and Punic musical performance.