Mary Harlow - Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology

Published in the United Kingdom in 2014 by
OXBOW BOOKS
10 Hythe Bridge Street, Oxford OX1 2EW

and in the United States by
OXBOW BOOKS
908 Darby Road, Havertown, PA 19083

Oxbow Books and the individual contributors 2014

Paperback Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-715-5
Digital Edition: ISBN 978-1-78297-716-2
Mobi: ISBN 978-1-78297-717-9; PDF: ISBN 978-1-78297-718-6

A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Greek and Roman textiles and dress : an interdisciplinary anthology / edited by Mary Harlow and Marie
Louise Nosch.
1 online resource. -- (Ancient textiles series ; VOL. 19)
This anthology is the second volume of two which group interdisciplinary contributions to the field
of textile research. The first volume is Mary Harlow, C?cile Michel & Marie-Louise Nosch (eds),
Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Description based on print version record and CIP data provided by publisher; resource not viewed.
ISBN 978-1-78297-716-2 (epub) -- ISBN 978-1-78297-717-9 (mobi (kindle)) -- ISBN 978-1-78297
718-6 ( pdf) -- ISBN 978-1-78297-715-5 (alk. paper) 1. Textile fabrics, Ancient--Greece. 2. Textile
fabrics, Roman. 3. Clothing and dress--Greece--History--To 500. 4. Clothing and dress--Rome. I.
Harlow, Mary, 1956- editor. II. Nosch, Marie-Louise, editor.
NK8907.3
746.0938--dc23

2014040016

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Front cover: The Parthenon east pediment. Trustees of the British Museum.

Contents

by Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch

by Stella Spantidaki

by Ellen Harlizius-Klck

by Cecilie Brns

by Marco Ercoles

by Matteo Martelli

by Christina Margariti and Maria Kinti

by Mark L. Lawall

by Elisabeth Trinkl

by Kerstin Dro-Krpe and Annette Paetz gen. Schieck

by Francesco Meo

by Lena Larsson Lovn

by Amalie Skovmller

by Jessica Dixon

by Elizabeth Bevis

by Zofia Kaczmarek

by Ines Bogensperger

by Laura Rodrguez Peinado, Ana Cabrera Lafuente, Enrique Parra Crego and Luis Turell Coll

by Pilar Borrego and Carmen Vega

by Catherine C. Taylor

Acknowledgements

Our sincere gratitude to the Danish National Research Foundation for its continued support.

We thank our colleagues at the Centre for Textile Research for their valuable help and advice, especially Dr Giovanni Fanfani. Mary Harlow was granted research leave from the University of Leicester, School of Archaeology & Ancient History, in order to finalise this anthology and we are grateful for their support. The Danish institute at Athens generously provided us with one months stay in order to edit the texts. We thank Clare Litt, editor in chief at oxbow Books, for the always smooth collaboration and professional help. Finally, we thank the authors for their excellent contributions, trust and patience.

This anthology, Mary Harlow & Marie-Louise Nosch (eds), Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology, Ancient Textiles Series 19, Oxbow Books, Oxford (2014), is the second volume of two which group interdisciplinary contributions to the field of textile research. The first volume is Mary Harlow, Ccile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch (eds), Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology. Ancient Textiles Series 18. Oxbow Books, Oxford (2014).

Copenhagen, September 2013

The editors
Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch

Contributors

ELIZABETH BEVIS is a PhD candidate in the Department of History of Art at Johns Hopkins University. She received an MA in Classical Archaeology from the University of Missouri in 2010. Her research interests include Roman dress and textiles, late Roman art and archaeology, and combining methods from art history, anthropology and literary studies to better understand the material remains of the Roman world.

INES BOGENSPERGER studied Classical Archaeology at the University of Vienna. During her study she focused on Greek papyrology in addition. With the research programme for Muse she has investigated and catalogued the collections of late antique textiles of the Department of Papyri of the Austrian National Library in Vienna. Conducting her research in one of the largest collections of papyri she was confronted with the papyrological records of textiles and textile production. In her research she combines these two fields, the textual and the material evidence of Late Antiquity in Egypt.

PILAR BORREGO is a chemist, with a masters in Cultural Heritage, and textile conservator at the Cultural Heritage Institute of Spain since 1986. She has participated in conservation work, execution and management of restoration projects, training of restoration technicians and dissemination (publication, conferences) of completed projects. Since 2010 she works as a technical specialist in textiles in the Area of Research of El Instituto del Patrimonio Cultural de Espaa (IPCE).

CECILIE BRNS is a PhD fellow in classical archaeology at the National Museum of Denmark and the Danish National Research Foundations Centre for Textile Research (CTR). Her dissertation Gods and Garments. Textiles in Greek Sanctuaries in the 1st Millennium BC investigates three aspects of the cultic use of textiles: the use of textiles as votive offerings, the dressing of cult statues, and sacred dress-codes in Greek sanctuaries. The study is based on a range of sources: Iconography, epigraphy, literary sources and archaeological material such as the fibulas and dress pins.

ANA CABRERA LAFUENTE is a museum curator at the Museo Nacional de Artes Decorativas in Madrid and is in charge of the textile collection. She holds an MA in Art from the Universidad Complutense of Madrid and a BA in Philosophy and Humanities, majoring in Prehistory and Archaeology from Universidad Autnoma of Madrid. Her research is focused on the study of archaeological textiles. She has published several articles and conference papers on textiles from Late Antiquity to the Early Middle Age focused on questions related to raw materials, textile production and trade. These are part of her contributions to various Spanish research projects related to Late Antiquity and Middle Age textiles in the Mediterranean Basin. She was awarded a Dumbarton Oaks Foundation Summer Fellowship in Byzantine Studies in 2010.

JESSICA DIXON completed her Undergraduate and Masters Degrees at the University of Liverpool and finished her doctoral research at the University of Manchester in 2013. Her PhD was in Ancient History and looked at the relationship between morality and law through Augustus legislation on adultery. She is now teaching Classics at Merchant Taylors Boys Senior School in Crosby.

KERSTIN DROSS-KRPE studied Classical Archaeology, Ancient History and Business Administration and holds a PhD in Ancient History from Philipps-University, Marburg in Germany. Her PhD-thesis dealt with textile production in Roman Egypt focusing on papyrological sources. It was published as a monograph in 2011 (