Anjum Anand - Anjums Indian vegetarian feast
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To Adi and Mahi, with
all my love always.
I was raised by a vegetarian mother. She had an arranged marriage, which makes you think she
would have been introduced to a suitable partner, but really my father couldnt have been more
different from her when it came to food. His tastes were as gourmand as hers were restrained.
He tells colourful stories about fishing with his brothers, taking their prize catch home and making
a big pot of curry, but food never features in my mothers childhood tales. Once married, however,
she started to cook the rich, meaty curries my father loved, and served them up as well as her simple
but equally tasty vegetable and lentil dishes. I was brought up eating both.
In a funny twist of fate, I then married a vegetarian who comes from generations of vegetarians.
So my children are vegetarian. As I have been married for nine years and my husband doesnt cook
thats a lot of vegetarian meals. Like my mother, I have learned a new way to cook, creating new
dishes and tinkering with flavours to keep my family well fed and enjoying their meals.
Luckily, my culinary heritage is replete with amazing vegetarian dishes, as two-thirds of India has
followed a meat-free diet for thousands of years, either because the people cant afford meat on a
regular basis, or because they believe that eating it is bad for the soul (in a country that believes in
reincarnation, they arent taking any chances). Either way, this has given them a lot of time to perfect
the culinary uses of lentils, beans and dairy products into a vast spectrum of dishes. I have always
said my desert island ingredient would be the humble Bengal gram (chana dal), a type of lentil.
It can be made into a curry, stir-fried with spices into a protein-rich side dish, even used to make a
dessert. It is also ground into flour and then made into bread, or batter for spiced pancakes or bhajis,
or spiced and steamed savoury lentil cakes. Indians are alchemists of the vegetarian table, and can
conjure thousands of uses from their beans or dairy products.
The recipes in this book have their feet firmly planted in Indias amazing regional food, but also
contain influences from my life and travels. Many of the dishes here are Indian classics, others are
refreshed and revised meals that I love. There are also a few which are just hanging by a home-spun
cotton thread to an Indian heritage, but are too delicious not to be included.
I have enjoyed writing this book more than any other; Ive cooked with foods I hadnt tried before and
experimented with new flavour combinations. I find the world of meat-free living bountiful, beautiful
and a feast for so many of the senses. I hope you enjoy the food as much as I do.
ANJUMS INDIAN VEGETARIAN FEAST
Indian
vegetarian
pantry
Most of the ingredients necessary to whip up
exciting, nourishing vegetarian food can be kept
handy in your pantry. As long as you have the
very basic fresh ingredients such as onions,
root ginger, garlic, tomatoes and yogurt you
should be able to whip up delicious meals without
last-minute dashes to the shops. This is a really
comprehensive list, so dont feel that you need
to buy and store all of these in your kitchen, but
do have a look through and see which make you
feel hungry! The more varied your vegetarian
diet the better, so be adventurous and seek out
ingredients that you dont eat yet.
PULSES
Obviously, these are a great source of protein, as well
as key minerals. I store both dried and canned beans.
I prefer the texture and flavour of dried beans, which
need to be soaked overnight before cooking, but I also
have cans of those beans I eat often, just in case of sudden
cravings. I never buy canned lentils, as these do not need
soaking. There are a whole panoply of lentils and they are
your friends in the kitchen: they need little attention and
minimal fuss to fashion into beautiful curries. Here are
some of the bean and lentil varieties I use most often.
BEANS
Black-eyed beans
Butterbeans
Cannellini beans
Chickpeas
Kidney beans
LENTILS
Bengal gram (chana dal)
Black gram (urad dal)
Puy lentils
Red lentils (masoor dal)
Split black gram
(dhuli hui ma dal)
Split pigeon peas (toor dal)
Yellow lentils (mung dal)
SPICES
Essential to the Indian diet; Indians are the alchemists of
the spice rack. I recommend you increase your spice larder
by one jar or packet a week, as these will really add a wow
factor to your daily diet.
WHOLE
Black cardamom pods
Black peppercorns
Brown mustard seeds
Carom seeds
Cassia bark (a hardier, less
sweet version of cinnamon)
Cloves
Coriander seeds
Cumin seeds
Curry leaves (ideally fresh;
if dried or frozen, use with
a heavier hand)
Dried red chillies
Fennel seeds
Fenugreek seeds
Green cardamom pods
Mace
Nutmeg
Panch phoran
(a mix of five seeds)
GROUND
Asafoetida
Chaat masala
(a store-bought blend of tangy
spices, this is really useful)
Chilli powder
Dried fenugreek leaves
(a great savoury flavour)
Dried mint
(adds lovely fragrance)
Mango powder
(gives a welcome sour note)
Pomegranate powder (with
an unusual, delicious tang)
Turmeric
How to roast spices
Only roast whole spices. Place the spices in a
moderately hot, dry frying pan and toast over
a gentle heat. Shake the pan often so the spices
brown evenly. (Do not use non-stick pans as
the coating may smoke and this is thought to
be toxic.) As the spices roast, they colour and
become aromatic. Take them off the heat once
they turn a few shades darker. (For the already
dark spices, test by aroma instead.) Remove
them from the pan or they will continue to
brown and might burn. Roasted spices can be
ground in a mortar and pestle, or a spice or
coffee grinder kept for the purpose.
INDIAN VEGETARIAN PANTRY
GRAINS
These dont have to be dull, in fact these days they are
positively fashionable! Some can add protein to the diet.
Basmati rice, white and brown.
I use a lot of brown at home for family food.
Beaten rice (poha).
This is cooked rice that has been dried, then
flattened into a flake. It is fluffy and delicious and often
made into a pilaf. Dont confuse this with the flaked raw
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