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Diane Cardaci - Drawing Lifelike Subjects: A Complete Guide to Rendering Flowers, Landscapes, and Animals

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Drawing Lifelike Subjects: A Complete Guide to Rendering Flowers, Landscapes, and Animals: summary, description and annotation

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Step-by-Step Studio: Drawing Lifelike Subjects teaches beginning artists how to create realistic, detailed drawings in graphite pencil.

Featuring in-depth instruction on basic drawing techniques, creating texture, developing likeness, and more, Step-by-Step Studio: Drawing Lifelike Subjects is the perfect guide for you as a beginning or intermediate artist. After an introduction to basic materials and pencil techniques, four accomplished artists offer insight, tips, and step-by-step demonstrations that help create detailed, lifelike drawings of your chosen subjects, including animals, flowers, and landscapes. Learn to create texture and likeness using basic pencil techniques, understanding perspective, exploring light and shadow, developing values, and more.

Dogs & Puppies: From a soulful Basset Hound puppy to a full-grown German Shepherd, learn to draw your chosen breed step by step.

Flowers & Botanicals: Explains basic flower anatomy and how to render detailed still lifes and florals using basic pencil techniques to convey light and shadow.

Beautiful Landscapes: See the world through the eyes of an artist as you recreate coastal scenes, warm cottages, and pastoral landscapes.

Lifelike Animals: Capture the essence of your favorite wild animals, including elephants, tigers, lions, wolves, and more.

Throughout the book, artists Diane Cardaci, Nolon Stacey, Linda Weil, and Diane Wright offer practical drawing techniques and easy-to-understand, step-by-step instruction , but also encouraging words. The journey through Step-by-Step Studio: Drawing Lifelike Subjects is not about making perfect drawings; its about achieving likeness and drawing skills with each new project, while having a great time.

The books in the Step-by-Step Studio series introduce beginning artists to the fundamental tools and techniques of their chosen medium. Easy-to-follow, step-by-step projects help beginners hone their skills while creating artwork across a variety of subjects, from still life and landscapes to animal portraits and botanicals.

Diane Cardaci: author's other books


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STEPBYSTEP STUDIO Drawing LIFELIKE SUBJECTS With Diane Cardaci Nolon - photo 1
STEPBYSTEP STUDIO
Drawing
LIFELIKE SUBJECTS
With Diane Cardaci Nolon Stacey Linda Weil and Diane Wright CONTENTS - photo 2

With Diane Cardaci, Nolon Stacey, Linda Weil, and Diane Wright

CONTENTS TOOLS MATERIALS One of the great things about drawing is that - photo 3
CONTENTS
TOOLS MATERIALS One of the great things about drawing is that you can do it - photo 4
TOOLS & MATERIALS

One of the great things about drawing is that you can do it anywhere, and the materials are very inexpensive. However, you do get what you pay for, so purchase the best you can afford, and upgrade your supplies whenever possible. Although anything that will make a mark can be used for some type of drawing, youll want to make certain your magnificent efforts will last and not fade over time.

SKETCH PADS

You can buy spiral-bound, stitched, or gum-bound sketchbooks in a variety of sizes. The paper in most sketchbooks is not designed for finished worksyou should not worry about producing masterpieces with them. You may want to carry a small notebook-sized sketchbook with you so you can sketch whenever the mood strikes. Its a good idea to carry a larger sketchbook when drawing on location.

PAPER Drawing paper is available in a range of surface textures smooth grain - photo 5
PAPER

Drawing paper is available in a range of surface textures: smooth grain (plate finish and hot-pressed), medium grain (cold-pressed), and rough to very rough. Rough paper is ideal when using charcoal, whereas smooth paper is best for watercolor washes. The heavier the weight of the paper, the thicker it is. Thicker papers are better for graphite drawings because they can withstand erasing far better than thinner papers can. Be sure to purchase acid-free paper, as acid causes paper to turn yellow over time.

ERASERS Plastic art erasers are good for removing harder pencil marks and for - photo 6
ERASERS

Plastic art erasers are good for removing harder pencil marks and for erasing large areas. Be careful when using this type of eraser, as rubbing too hard will damage the surface of the paper. Kneaded erasers are very pliable; you can mold them into different shapes. Instead of rubbing the kneaded eraser across the paper, gently dab at the area to remove or lighten tone. Another great tool is adhesive putty, made for tacking posters to a wall. Like a kneaded eraser, it can be molded and wont damage the paper. You may also want to try a battery-operated eraser, which is a quick and efficient option.

Plastic eraser Kneaded eraser Adhesive putty SHARPENERS Clutch - photo 7

Plastic eraser

Kneaded eraser Adhesive putty SHARPENERS Clutch pencils see require - photo 8

Kneaded eraser

Adhesive putty SHARPENERS Clutch pencils see require special sharpeners - photo 9

Adhesive putty

SHARPENERS

Clutch pencils (see ) require special sharpeners, which you can find at an arts and crafts store. A regular handheld sharpener can be used for wood-cased and woodless pencils, but be sure to have several sharpeners on hand as these pencils can become dull. You can also purchase an electric sharpener, but it affords less control over the shape of the pencil tip.

BLENDING TOOLS Paper stumps also called tortillons are used to blend or - photo 10
BLENDING TOOLS

Paper stumps (also called tortillons) are used to blend or smudge areas of graphite into a flat, even tone. Be careful when using blending tools, as they tend to push the graphite into the paper, making the area difficult to erase. Another good way to blend is to wrap a chamois cloth around your finger. Never use your finger alone for blendingthe oils on your skin can damage the paper.

PENCILS Soft pencils labeled B produce strong black tones hard pencils - photo 11
PENCILS

Soft pencils (labeled B) produce strong, black tones; hard pencils (labeled H) create lighter marks. The higher the number that accompanies the letter, the harder or softer the lead. (For example, a 4B pencil is softer than a 2B pencil.) HB and F pencils are used for middle grades. We recommend starting with the following range of wood-cased pencils: 2H, H, HB, F, B, and 2B. As your skills develop, you can experiment with different types of pencils. Some artists like to use clutch pencils (also called mechanical pencils), which require special sharpeners (see ). You can also purchase woodless graphite pencils, which are great for covering large areas with tone or for making quick sketches. These pencils are usually very soft, and the graphite breaks easily. Charcoal pencils are also good for making very dark black marks. Keep in mind that tones vary among manufacturersone brands HB may look very different from another brands, so try to stick with one brand of pencil for a consistent range of tones.

HB Pencil An HB pencil with a sharp point produces crisp lines offering a good - photo 12

HB Pencil An HB pencil with a sharp point produces crisp lines, offering a good amount of control. With a dull point, you can make slightly thicker lines and shade small areas.

Clutch Pencil A clutch pencil doesnt change in weight or length so you never - photo 13

Clutch Pencil A clutch pencil doesnt change in weight or length, so you never need to adjust your feel for it.

Woodless Pencil A woodless pencil is a solid core of graphite covered with a - photo 14

Woodless Pencil A woodless pencil is a solid core of graphite covered with a thin sheath of plastic. It is great for creating broad areas of tone.

TRANSFERRING TOOLS

When drawing from reference photos, you may want to transfer the basic outlines from the photo to your drawing paper. You can do this using the grid method, which helps you break down the image into smaller, more manageable segments (see box below), or by using transfer paper. You can either purchase transfer paper, which is coated on one side with graphite (much like carbon paper), or you can make your own by covering one side of a piece of tracing paper with an even layer of graphite. Place a sheet of transfer paper over the drawing paper (graphite-side down); then place the photograph (or a photocopy of the image) over the transfer paper. Use heavy pressure and a hard 2H pencil to trace the major shapes of the image directly on the photograph or photocopythe lines will transfer to your drawing paper.

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