Introduction
W e never tire of exploring New England. The diversity in terrain stimulates us, and, unlike snowbirds, we enjoy all seasons. Some people are happiest in the mountains, with far-reaching views and great hiking. Others are mad about the ocean, especially when boisterous waves crash on a rocky coast. And the rotation of seasons brings gorgeous crisp fall colors, pristine winter snowfalls, spring wildflowers, and summer days spent lazily on a beach. Taken together, the six states offer a greater variety of activities than any other region of the United States.
What is a romantic escape? Couples, as well as each man and woman, have different visions of "romance." But no matter what your definition is, some time spent outside your normal routine of home and work can stimulate your imagination and provide relaxation and renewal. It's the chance to be alone together and build memories to share. Even a short trip may be just the break in routine that will refresh stressful couples who have forgotten what brought them together.
When do couples plan romantic trips? Some are considering an engagement, others are enjoying a first, second, or 20th honeymoon, an anniversary of the day they met, or a birthday, yet others are celebrating a promotion, marking the completion of a project, or just seeking some time away from the demands of children. Some head out on impulse or plan a surprise just to escape from ordinary life at home. Romantic anecdotes in the text may entice you to consider your own weekend jaunt.
Where do you want to go? Some well-known towns and resorts in New England are obviously appealing, with great views, interesting architecture, and many activities at hand. Other spots equally attractive are relatively unknown and unspoiled, just waiting to be found. It has been our pleasure to explore many towns, villages, and country roads throughout New England, and almost every trip brings the pleasure of new discoveries. In addition to the ambience of their location, many inns and B&B's have attractive rooms and a habit of pampering their guests in a discreet fashion.
As travelers together for almost 45 years and travel writers for almost 20, we have poked around finding new inns, B&B's and restaurants, as well as revisiting ones we already know. Yet we have only scratched the surface. This selective book focuses on places we know well, ones that have some distinctive character other couples are likely to enjoy. It makes no pretense of covering all attractive places to visit or stay in New England, leaving that to far less detailed but more comprehensive accommodations directories.
With a few exceptions, our choices lie outside of cities because most couples want to escape the urban environment and get into the countryside for their romantic weekends. Our description is meant to help you visualize what the place really looks like. We have listed various ways you can get information about accommodations (telephone, fax, e-mail, Web site).
Prices for Accommodations
$50-$100 - $
$101-$200 - $$
$201-$300 - $$$
$301 and up - $$$$
Be sure to ask about high, low, and shoulder seasons, weekday and weekend rates, romantic packages, and special activity weekends. We suggest that you plan well in advance because many of these inns and B&B's are heavily booked. On the other hand, some of our favorite places to stay have been found on the spur of the moment and by accident.
Couples on romantic weekends usually want to find restaurants to suit their own tastes, so we have listed samples of appetizers and entres. We have also included a selection of recipes so that couples who like to cook together can try them at home either before or after they go.
Newport
T he first time we visited Newport, as a newly married couple, we were destined to be apart for nine long days. Robert, as Sailing Officer at the US Naval Academy, was skipper of a 44-foot yawl in the 1954 Bermuda Race. He had sailed from Annapolis to Newport with his crew and we were together for a spaghetti dinner, much toasting, and an overnight stay. In the morning, wives and sweethearts trooped to the harbor, the crew went on board the yawl, and the rest of us milled around before boarding a destroyer escort to see them off. As the band played "Nearer My God to Thee," we wept and they sailed away.
Think of Newport now and a host of images come to mind almost immediately - the mansions, the Jazz Festival, the America's Cup, floating boat shows - but Newport's rich colonial heritage is often overshadowed - especially by the grand showpiece "cottages" of industrial magnates from the post-Civil War boom. Many people here actually live in well-preserved colonial homes, and the historical district is prized for its collection of such houses. Early residents became wealthy sailing out of the beautiful harbor bound for foreign ports. But easy access to and from the sea also made the city vulnerable during the Revolution. The British took over the town from 1776 to 1779, until French soldiers arrived to rescue Newport. Newport's magnificent "cottages," built during an age of opulence and unbounded optimism, arouse complex feelings among later generations, who view them with a mixture of awe, sadness at the transience of such an era, envy of those who could afford such luxury, and even a touch of righteous indignation. After all, we muse, the exorbitantly wealthy men and women who built and lived in such mansions were sometimes clever opportunists or even scoundrels. Their money came from the backbreaking work of many others who lacked even marginal comforts. Yet none of these feelings can quite capture the perception that extraordinarily beautiful architecture creates in its beholders. Whatever their flaws, these self-confident magnates of a burgeoning America transformed their fairytale dreams into stone along the nation's most elegant, Europeanized street, Newport's aptly named Bellevue Avenue. From 1890 to 1910, while trying to outdo each other in magnificence, their ego trips in fact created monuments of lasting beauty. Some of their owners must have guessed that such a celebration of wealth couldn't last, and it didn't. Two world wars and the intervening great depression left Newport's image tarnished and bedraggled. But it was saved from economic ruin because it was an important Navy town as well as an historic treasure. Now Newport proudly displays its own historic treasures.
Where to Stay
Castle Hill Inn Ocean Drive, Newport, RI 02840 888/466-1355, 401/849-3800, fax 401/849-3838 Web site www.castlehill@edgenet.net 21 rooms off-season, 38 rooms in season. $-$$$
Living in this Victorian mansion offers views of both Narragansett Bay and the Atlantic. A Harvard marine biology professor, Alexander Agassiz, built the home for summer use. He added a laboratory to study marine animals; it was later replaced by the Marine Biological Laboratory in Wood's Hole, MA. The exquisite carved wooden motif over the fireplace was designed by Professor Agassiz. Today the inn offers guest rooms in the mansion, including the beautiful bridal suite with king-sized canopy bed, antique furnishings and a double-headed shower.