Introduction
W e never tire of exploring New England. The diversity in terrain stimulates us, and, unlike snowbirds, we enjoy all seasons. Some people are happiest in the mountains, with far-reaching views and great hiking. Others are mad about the ocean, especially when boisterous waves crash on a rocky coast. And the rotation of seasons brings gorgeous crisp fall colors, pristine winter snowfalls, spring wildflowers, and summer days spent lazily on a beach. Taken together, the six states offer a greater variety of activities than any other region of the United States.
What is a romantic escape? Couples, as well as each man and woman, have different visions of "romance." But no matter what your definition is, some time spent outside your normal routine of home and work can stimulate your imagination and provide relaxation and renewal. It's the chance to be alone together and build memories to share. Even a short trip may be just the break in routine that will refresh stressful couples who have forgotten what brought them together.
When do couples plan romantic trips? Some are considering an engagement, others are enjoying a first, second, or 20th honeymoon, an anniversary of the day they met, or a birthday, yet others are celebrating a promotion, marking the completion of a project, or just seeking some time away from the demands of children. Some head out on impulse or plan a surprise just to escape from ordinary life at home. Romantic anecdotes in the text may entice you to consider your own weekend jaunt.
Where do you want to go? Some well-known towns and resorts in New England are obviously appealing, with great views, interesting architecture, and many activities at hand. Other spots equally attractive are relatively unknown and unspoiled, just waiting to be found. It has been our pleasure to explore many towns, villages, and country roads throughout New England, and almost every trip brings the pleasure of new discoveries. In addition to the ambience of their location, many inns and B&B's have attractive rooms and a habit of pampering their guests in a discreet fashion.
As travelers together for almost 45 years and travel writers for almost 20, we have poked around finding new inns, B&B's and restaurants, as well as revisiting ones we already know. Yet we have only scratched the surface. This selective book focuses on places we know well, ones that have some distinctive character other couples are likely to enjoy. It makes no pretense of covering all attractive places to visit or stay in New England, leaving that to far less detailed but more comprehensive accommodations directories.
With a few exceptions, our choices lie outside of cities because most couples want to escape the urban environment and get into the countryside for their romantic weekends. Our description is meant to help you visualize what the place really looks like. We have listed various ways you can get information about accommodations (telephone, fax, e-mail, Web site).
Prices for Accommodations
$50-$100 - $
$101-$200 - $$
$201-$300 - $$$
$301 and up - $$$$
Be sure to ask about high, low, and shoulder seasons, weekday and weekend rates, romantic packages, and special activity weekends. We suggest that you plan well in advance because many of these inns and B&B's are heavily booked. On the other hand, some of our favorite places to stay have been found on the spur of the moment and by accident.
Couples on romantic weekends usually want to find restaurants to suit their own tastes, so we have listed samples of appetizers and entres. We have also included a selection of recipes so that couples who like to cook together can try them at home either before or after they go.
Stowe
T he very name, Stowe, sets up tingles of anticipation dating back to its reputation as a very romantic place where you were bound to meet a special someone on a ski vacation. Stowe still has that romantic aura for us, both as an extraordinary ski town and as a place for a relaxing holiday at any time of year. It is preeminent as a center for both alpine and nordic skiing in winter. But at other times of the year Stowe offers mountain hiking and biking, less strenuous walking on a streamside path, dramatic auto touring, a spa, an abundance of fine accommodations, gourmet dining, festivals and, always, the chance to stroll through 95 individualized shops and boutiques that are not part of national chains. Hikers can explore 30 trails on the mountain, including a section of the Long Trail that winds along the backbone of Vermont. Mountain bikers can ride lifts up and roar down ski trails. Walkers can head for the 5.3-mile Stowe Recreation Path, which meanders beside a mountain stream toward Mount Mansfield, crossing 11 wooden bridges. From Memorial Day to Columbus Day, adventurous drivers can head for the Stowe Auto Road , a gravel road with some steep parts that winds up the mountain to a visitor center. In February that same road is used for the most famous of Stowe's many festivals, the Stowe Derby , a 10-mile combined downhill and cross-country race from the top of Mount Mansfield to the village historic district. The mountain is also the site of many ski and snowboard competitions each winter, as well as a series of torchlight parades. Other annual events include the flower festival in June, a food and wine exposition and a balloon festival, both in July, a Mozart festival and an antique and classic car rally in August. Those interested in art exhibits, lectures, and concerts will find them throughout the year at the Helen Day Art Center , located in a restored 1863 Greek Revival building. Stowe has been welcoming guests in other seasons for more than a century, and we were surprised to learn that the "skiing capital of the East" has more visitors in the summer and fall than in the winter. The dream of the von Trapp family will always be there, not only in the magic of The Sound of Music, but knowing that a real family settled on land that looked very much like their native Austria. The surviving family members are around the lodge every day. During our last visit to Stowe we spent an evening with Maria von Trapp, who told us stories of her youth, laughing with twinkling eyes as she remembered amusing events. The children in the family had such a good time together and they really did sing for fun - on walks and at home. We could imagine their pre-war existence when we paid a visit to Zell am See in Austria and glimpsed the outside of the von Trapp's lakeside summer home, surrounded by high meadows and mountains.