Suzanne Swedo - Best Easy Day Hikes Hawaii: Kauai

Suzanne Swedo, director of W.I.L.D. (natural history adventures around the world), has backpacked the mountains of every continent. She has led groups into the wilderness for over thirty years and teaches wilderness survival and natural sciences to individuals, schools, universities, museums, and organizations such as Yosemite Conservancy and the Sierra Club. She is author of Best Easy Day Hikes Yosemite National Park, Hiking Yosemite, Hiking Californias Golden Trout Wilderness, and Adventure Travel Tips, all FalconGuides. She lectures and consults about backpacking, botany, and survival on radio and television, as well as in print.

Thanks to everyone who shared their knowledge and enthusiasm for outdoor Kauai, including Paulette Burtner at Kkee Museum, who knows everything there is to know about local trails; Katie Champlin from Limahuli Garden and Preserve; and Kawika Smith of the Department of Land and Natural Resources of Kauai. For help and company on the trail and for assistance and support of every kind imaginable, thanks to Jo Acree, Steven Bakos, Melinda Goodwater, and Marta Kis.

The Sleeping Giant is the distinctive mountain behind Kapaa and Wailua. The high (southernmost) point is his forehead; the next point to the north is his chin. The trail climbs up to his thighs and torso, makes a sharp turn, and goes up to his chest, where you can end the hike at a picnic spot or scramble all the way up to the summit. It offers great views and a good steady workout. Its popular with locals and tourists because its so convenient to the Coconut Coast.

Distance: 3.2 miles out and back

Approximate hiking time: 2 to 3 hours

Elevation gain: 900 feet

Trail surface: Well-maintained lava with one or two eroded spots

Other trail users: None

Canine compatibility: Dogs permitted

Fees and permits: None

Seasons: Year-round

Land status: Nounou State Forest Reserve

Maps:USGS Kapaa

Trail contact: Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources; (808) 274-3433; www.hawaiitrails.org

Special considerations: Midday is hot so its best to hike this trail in the morning and late afternoon.

Finding the trailhead: From the Lihue Airport, turn right (north) on HI 51, the first street after you leave the airport. In 1.5 miles HI 51 turns into HI 56 (the Kuhio Highway). Continue north for 4 more miles, crossing the Wailua River and passing the now abandoned Coco Palms Resort, to Haleilio Road at a traffic light. Turn west (mauka/toward the mountain) and drive a little over 1 mile to an inconspicuous parking area on the right. Its just before the road makes a turn to the left and is marked with a trail sign. Trailhead GPS: N22 03.40' / W159 20.46'

The trail starts to the right (north) of the parking lot. Climb up a little ridge shaded by ironwood (big trees from Australia that look like pines but arent). Before the climb gets serious, notice the small tree on the right with the succulent leaves covered in graffiti. Its called an autograph tree because writing on its leaves is more or less permanent. Begin a set of switchbacks lined with koa haole shrubs that shade the trail but block the cooling trade winds in exchange. The trail was originally marked every quarter mile, but only a few of these low metal markers remain.

The trail is clear and easy to follow except for a couple of scrambles over big rocks. Youll see lots of bare spots where hikers have cut the switchbacks, and in one or two places the way has become so badly eroded by shortcuts that it is hard to find. Please dont add to the damage.

After about 0.5 mile the grade levels out and even drops a bit, but not for long. The switchbacks resume and the trail swings south, climbing through strawberry guava to offer wonderful views of the jagged Anahola Mountains to the north. The route then crosses to the west side of the ridge to present equally fine views of the Makaleha Mountains to the west. After a few more switchbacks you come to a badly eroded red dirt patch. Go slowly here, keeping an eye out for the spot where the trail resumes, upward and to the right, then pause to notice how you got here so you wont get confused coming back down.

At 1.5 miles reach a junction with the Nounou Mountain Trail West coming in from the right (north). The sign is low and easy to miss. Turn right (north) and keep climbing, following a few more switchbacks to a flat grassy area with shaded, battered picnic tables. The Sleeping Giants head is hidden from you here, as are the best views, but you can walk around the hilltop and peer through the foliage to find them. Enjoy the view and return the way you came.

0.0 Start at the Nounou Mountain East trailhead.

1.5 Reach the junction with Nounou Mountain Trail West; turn left (N22 03.49' / W159 21.14').

1.6 Arrive at the picnic area; this is the turnaround point.

3.2 Return to the trailhead.

Option: You can continue another 0.3 mile to the very top of the giants head, but the rest of the way is steep, requiring hands and feet now and then, and is dangerously slippery when wet. If you decide to continue, follow the trail down the far side of the grassy picnic area through a little dip, cross a narrow windy ridge, then scramble up a steep pathhardly a trailto reach the giants chin. Another narrow ridge and another short, steep grunt take you to the giants head at 1,250 feet.

This pleasant ramble heads through forest along the western base of Nounou Mountain (the Sleeping Giant). You can stop (or turn around) at a covered picnic table overlooking the valley to the misty Makaleha Mountains, or continue to a junction with the Nounou Mountain Trail West. From there its a steep 1-mile climb to the head of the Sleeping Giant as an option. There are a variety of native and introduced flowers to enjoy and wild fruits to eat along the hike, which is popular with locals.

Distance: 2.6 miles out and back

Approximate hiking time: 1 to 2 hours

Elevation gain: 300 feet

Trail surface: Fairly smooth well maintained lava

Other trail users: Cyclists and equestrians

Canine compatibility: Dogs permitted

Fees and permits: None

Seasons: Year-round

Land status: Nounou State Forest Reserve

Maps:USGS Kapaa; Kauai Recreational Trail Map (Hawaii Division of Forestry and Wildlife)

Trail contact: Hawaii Department of Land and Natural Resources; (808) 274-3433; www.hawaiitrails.org

Finding the trailhead: From the Lihue Airport turn right (north) onto HI 51. In 1.5 miles HI 51 turns into HI 56 (the Kuhio Highway). Continue north for 4 more miles. Just after the Wailua River crossing, turn left (mauka/toward the mountain) on HI 580 (Kuamoo Road). Continue for 2.5 miles, passing the paekaa Falls overlook. The trailhead is on the right (east) side of the road. Its easy to miss; there is only a small pullout for two to three cars, a small trailhead sign, and an open gate, painted yellow, at the edge of a field next to a house. Trailhead GPS: N22 03.00' / W159 21.59'

Step over the threshold of the yellow gate and walk between private houses and pastureland on a mowed grass path. Drop down into a little gully to cross a creek on a bridge, then turn left (west) at a beautiful white-barked albizia tree. These big shady trees, with lacy-looking foliage and broad umbrella-shaped tops sprinkled with delicate white flowers, are especially pretty in spring and early summer. Its too bad they have become serious pests, crowding out native species.