Suzanne Swedo - Hawaii: Maui

Best Easy Day Hikes Series

Best Easy Day Hikes Hawaii: Maui

Suzanne Swedo

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ISBN 978-1-4930-0513-0

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For William Goldsmith

Contents

Maui Overview Map

Acknowledgments

Maui, the Valley Isle

A Few Words of Caution

How to Use This Guide

How to Speak Hawaiian

Maui Hike Ratings

Map Legend

The Hikes

1 Iao Needle

2 Kepaniwai Park and Heritage Gardens

3 Tropical Gardens of Maui

4 Waihee Valley (Swinging Bridges)

5 Nakalele Blowhole

6 Waihou Spring

7 Garden of Eden

8 Twin Falls

9 Waikamoi Ridge Nature Trail

10 Keanae Arboretum

11 Sea Caves and Black Sand Beach

12 Waianapanapa Coast Trail

13 Oheo Gulch and the Seven Pools

14 Pipiwai Trail

15 Hosmer Grove

16 Halemauu Haleakala Overlook

17 Red Hill Summit Overlook

18 Into Haleakala Crater

19 Maalaea Beach Walk

20 Olowalu Petroglyphs

About the Author

Acknowledgments

Thanks to Judy Edwards and Kiera Strom-Herman-Lyons at Haleakala National Park, Wade Holmes of the Hawaii Nature Center, and Torrie L. Nohara at Na Ala Hele Hawaii Trail & Access System, along with Melinda Goodwater and Singaman Lama, Rona Levein, Gordon Douglas, Pat Medley, Joellyn and Dave Acree, and Meryl Leventhal.

Maui, the Valley Isle

Maui is the second biggest (next to Hawaii) and the second most frequently visited (next to Oahu) of the Hawaiian Islands. In recent years it has been growing fast, with resorts and condos creeping outward along formerly unspoiled coastlines on the leeward side of the island. But there is still enough wild country to exploreon mostly well-maintained trailsto keep hikers happy for months.

Named for Maui, the demigod who captured the sun and forced it to slow its progress across the sky, bringing longer, sunnier days to the island, it is also known as the Valley Isle because its made up of two mountains joined by an isthmus. These two mountains are so different they might as well be separate islands, and a couple of times they have been. Sediments washed down the side of the older mountain, and lava flowed down from the newer one, to form the land connectionthe valleybetween them. At times of higher sea levels, when the climate warmed between glacial periods, the isthmus was inundated and the two mountains became separate islands. The deep sediments of the isthmus made it a rich agricultural area and sugarcane is still grown there, though plantations are disappearing as prices have fallen and development replaces agriculture.

The older volcano that formed West Maui is extinct now. It has been deeply grooved and weathered by wind and water and is clothed in dense vegetation. Puu Kukui on West Maui is second only to Mount Waialeale on Kauai in the amount of rainfall it receives (over 400 inches per year).

There are a number of river and ridgetop hikes on West Maui, including the beautiful Iao Valley, and you can get to most of them easily from Kahului, where the islands main population center and airport are. You can also find some of the islands cheapest accommodations in Wailuku, right next door. Its an interesting, slightly shabby old towna little like Hilo on the Big Islandwith a couple of hostels and inexpensive hotels.

The main tourist attraction on West Maui is the historical whaling port of Lahaina, on the leeward side. Lots of shops and restaurants line the pretty harbor. It is also a National Historic Landmark, with many of its original buildings restored and open to the public. Its fun to take a stroll down the main street but is a fairly expensive place to stay.

To the north, the resorts of Kaanapali sprawl along beaches where snorkeling is great, but there isnt much for hikers except manicured paths through hotel grounds. More tourists gather in Kihea on the sunny southern side of the isthmus, where another string of condos, malls, and golf courses are crammed together for miles along the shore. Farther southwest there is still some undeveloped shoreline where you can find isolated bays and interesting trails. Partway between Lahaina and Kihea youll find the tiny settlement of Olowalu, trailhead for a walk to a set of petroglyphs, mysterious designs chipped into the rock face by early Hawaiians. Their condition isnt perfect, but they are the real things.

Haleakala, the younger of the two volcanoes that make up Maui, emerged from the sea not much more than a million years ago, and has erupted within historic times so it is still considered active. At 10,023 feet it is twice as high as the highest of the West Maui mountains. Its northern coastline is surely one of the most beautiful in the world. The notorious Hana Highway winds past the trailheads for several hikes to waterfalls, nature preserves, and botanical gardens. Near its end is Hana, jumping-off point for hikes in the Kipahulu section of Haleakala National Park, home of the misnamed Seven Sacred Pools. The Hana Highway is such a long, slow drive that if you plan to hike from Kipahulu or explore any of the other trails nearby, you should stay somewhere near the eastern end of the island. Hana is charming but small, expensive, and often wet. There is a free campground at Kipahulu, but the real bargain in accommodations is at Waianapanapa State Park north of Hana. It has both camping and very inexpensive, fully equipped housekeeping cabins. For information call (808) 984-8109 (online reservations are not accepted). Some of Mauis most exciting treks begin at Waianapanapa, and its a good place to watch for sea turtles, dolphins, and whales.