Jenny Rushmore - Ahead of the Curve: Learn to Fit and Sew Amazing Clothes for Your Curves

adjustments, basic

arms: fit clinic

measuring biceps

armscye adjustments

back: fit clinic

biceps: full bicep adjustment

measuring

bodice seams

bra cup sizing

bum adjustments

bust: bust clinic

cup sizing

measuring

calf adjustment, full

camel toe adjustment

crotch curve adjustments

cup sizing

darts: big dart solution

darted and dartless FBA

gaping armscye adjustment

lengthening or shortening bust darts

lowering or raising bust darts

SBA on a darted bodice

truing

dolman sleeves

drape

dresses: Foxhill dress

Honeybourne dress

fabric

cutting

ease and fabric choice

fabric weight

for toiles

fitting

arms

back

basic adjustments

bust

if you use mobility aids

lower half

shoulders and neck

toiles

Foxhill dress

Full Bust Adjustments (FBAs)

calculating the size of

darted and dartless FBA

for knit garments without a dart

on different garments

princess seam

troubleshooting

grading between sizes

hips: finessing hip curves

measuring

Honeybourne dress

Kersoe top

knit fabrics

legs: finessing curves

measuring thighs

lengthening

lower half: fit clinic

Magna pants

markings, transferring

measurements

how to measure yourself

measurement tables

picking pattern sizes

measuring tools

mobility aids, fitting if you use

movement, ease of

neck fit clinic

notches, transferring

pattern adjusting tools

patterns

finding the bust apex

lowering or raising a princess seam curve

measurement tables

re-shaping

sizing

pressing

princess seams: FBA

grading between sizes

lowering or raising a princess seam curve

SBAs on

raglan sleeves

seam allowance

seams, bodice

shortening

shoulders fit clinic

sitting measurements

sizing

cup sizing

ease

grading between sizes

measurement tables

picking your size

skirt adjustments

sleeves

Small Bust Adjustments (SBAs)

calculating the size of

on a darted or dartless bodice

on a princess seam

what an SBA does

Stanway T-shirt

test garments

thighs: adjustments

finessing curves

measuring

toiles

fabric for

making and altering

over-fitting

types of

tops: Kersoe top

Stanway T-shirt

trousers: adjustments

grading between sizes

Magna pants

tummy adjustments

waists: measuring

fitting a full waist

grading waist seams between sizes

wedgie adjustment

woven fabrics

This book could not have happened without the help and support of many people. Thank you to my editor Harriet Butt (who persuaded me to write a book when I was convinced I didnt want to), along with Emily Lapworth and Sarah Hoggett, for shepherding me through the process as a first-time author you made it (relatively) easy! Thank you also to my agent David Riley.

The fab photos are all thanks to Brooke Harwood, Lucie Clifford, Danni Hooker and our ultra-gorgeous models, Dibs Maxwell, Miranda Griffith, Corrie Lewis-Bishop, Andii Melody Mae and Emily Noto. It was such a delight after months of lockdown!

At Cashmerette HQ I am, as always, indebted to my amazing team, Carrie McGowan, Ayelet Ronen and Mallory Donohue, who held down the fort while I disappeared for weeks on end to write, sew and edit. Extra snaps to Carrie, who did a marvellous job proofreading. Thanks also to Betsy Cook and T Staskevich, who are behind the scenes of every Cashmerette pattern. Development sewing help came thanks to Claire-Louise Hardie, Lisa Obuchowska, Charlotte Stidwill, Rachel Frost, Claire Smith, Louise Haines, Lauren Digby, Sue Young and Mary-Kate Morrell. All great sewing patterns must have great pattern testers, so a huge thanks to Andie Wells, Anna Marquardt, Caroline Janny, Elaine Hockley, Gaylen Matlock, Jennifer Woofter, Jessica Ferguson, Joan Ellis, Kenna Russell, Kristina Douglas, Meg McCarthy, Michelle Rose, Rachel Marchetti, Sierra Burrell and Syreeta Price. Much thanks also to Elle Harris for her thoughtful input on the topic of fitting if you use mobility aids. And, to Alvaform for the use of their plus size form.

Finally, the biggest thank you goes to my parents, Helen and Peter, who spent many hours on the floor with my daughter playing Lego and watching re-runs of Fireman Sam, giving me the time to write this book! And, of course, to Josephine, who started her sewing journey at 20 months old and never fails to brighten my day.

Learning how to sew your own clothes is exciting, but learning how to fit them to your body is a superpower! I never feel as confident as I do when Im wearing a well-made, well-fitting garment I know I look good, my body feels good in the garment, and, well, Im just going to have a good day.

So, what is fitting, exactly? At its most basic, its adjusting a sewing pattern so that the final garment looks and feels the way that you want it to on your body. Historically, there were a lot of rules about what good fit is and if you want to go the traditional route, by all means do!

However, I think that the question of good fit is more personal you have to decide for yourself which aspects are the most important and what youre going to focus your time and effort on. It can even change from garment to garment: for instance, in a formal dress that youre wearing to a wedding, your top priority might be a very sleek, close-fitting garment that looks great in photos, and you may be willing to be a little uncomfortable if you have to bend down to pick up something from the floor. On the other hand, if youre making a piece of loungewear, comfort may be key: perhaps you want to go really flowy and dont mind if theres a little bit of fabric folding above the bust. It might be heresy to old-school sewing teachers, but its the reality of how most of us sew and wear clothes!

• What do you want it to look like?
• Typically, most people want to avoid clothing thats bunching, digging in, falling off or saggy. There are also proportions to consider which do you prefer, and do you need to adjust the garment to achieve that?
• How do you want to feel physically in the garment?
• Consider how your body feels in clothes do you prefer to feel closely hugged or free to move around? Do you have sensory preferences that affect where youd like seams to go for your comfort? Where do waistlines feel comfortable on you?
• How should the garment fit for you to feel comfortable emotionally?
• Your comfort in the garment is really important, and thats different for every person. Think about where you want sleeves or hemlines to end, or the depth of a neckline: what makes you feel confident and secure?
• How do you want to be able to move in the garment?
• Depending on your lifestyle, the way your body works and the garment type, there are different movements that you might want to be able to do in the clothing. For instance, you might need to be able to drive, bend down to pick up kids, play the violin, or be able to comfortably push your wheelchair; all of those considerations will affect how you need the garment to fit and function.