Andrea McCloud - The Girls guide to Surfing

I am beholden to all of the surfers who contributed to this book for their invaluable insights, suggestions, and stories. Special thanks to my editor, Sarah Malarkey, for her enthusiasm and guidance; to illustrator Symbolon, for creating such strong and sexy surfers; and to surf guru Matt Warshaw for a veryverythorough fact-check (he did write the encyclopedia on the subject, after all). Id also like to thank the team at Chronicle Books, especially designer Vivien Sung, for all of their hard work on the project. And above all, everlasting appreciation goes to Derek Gaertner, my main man and surf sensei: I couldnt have done it without you.

From Malibu , California, to Narragansett, Rhode Island, from Tofino, British Columbia, to Cornwall, England, women are carving turns in record numbers. Though women have been surfing for hundreds of years, its really only been since the early 1990s that our presence in the sport has begun to receive its rightful due. And thanks to the dedication of past and current wahines things are continuing to change. True, most lineups are still dominated by men. True, male pros still earn roughly ten times that of female pros. True, its really hard to find a decent pair of womens trunks. But whats also true is that every year more and more ladies are making the charge, and every yearthrough the tenacity of the pros and the ambition of aspiring surfers like youthe sport of surfing is opening its arms to women. The barriers are starting to fall, says veteran surfer Rochelle Ballard. There is a lot more common ground in the water because were multiplying and the men are more comfortable because they see more and more women in the lineup. The majority of the guys are starting to realize that we have just as much joy for surfing as they do, and that we kind of lighten up the lineup and bring a real grace to surfing.

Surfing is a physical, emotional, and soulful experience. Its you and you alone using your mind, your body, and your spirit to synchronously move with the rhythm of the ocean, to harmoniously ride its explosions of energy. In two words: sheer exhilaration, or perhaps more aptly put, totally awesome. It takes strength, endurance, and balance, both physical and mental; it takes stamina, commitment, and patience; but most of all, it takes the courage to get out there. Being a beginner at anything is tough and humbling, but especially so with surfing, where just about everything, from buying a wetsuit to carrying your board to the beach to entering the surf zone, can be intimidating and challenging. But if you have courage, the rest will come with time and (lots of) practice.

The practice factor is something that cannot be emphasized enough. Though many of the people in the lineup make surfing look easy, it most likely took them yearsyes, yearsto master. And you, just like everyone else, will have to go through that same humbling and sometimes painful evolution from kook to full-fledged surfer. Realize it may take months for you to catch your first bona fide wave; dont get discouragedits difficult for everybody. Bottom line: If you make a commitment to surfing, you will learn to surf. It wont be pretty and you will undoubtedly get frustrated, but have faith. All of the nasty wipeouts and embarrassing moments will be worth it when you finally have that first triumphant ride to shore.

Have fun with it because thats the main reason you should be surfing. Dont be hard on yourself. A lot of girls are insecure about something, whether its their body or their ability, what the boys are going to think, what people are going to say. Be real with yourself, urges surf star Serena Brooke, Say, Look, this is who I am, Im not perfect, Im not great at it, Im a beginner and I accept that Im learning. Everyone has to start somewhere. Dont get ahead of yourselfenjoy the journey. Slow down and have fun with it for what it is. Dont be attached to the outcome, just enjoy the process and what it is in that moment, even if that is going over the falls and eating crap. Just laugh at yourself and keep it light.

A surfers journey, though challenging, is ridiculously fun and rewarding. Be patient, be persistent, and surf as much as you can. This guide was designed to help you get started and to answer any questions that might arise as you improve, but theres really no substitute for getting out there and getting wet. It will take time for you to get to know your board and the ocean, and for your body to get used to surfing. You may be sore for a while or acquire the occasional bump or bruisethats all part of it. Take pride in these beautiful battle wounds and stick with it.

Charge!

• Pele, legendary Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, learns to surf and teaches her sister Hiiaka.
• Mamala, Hawaiian Oahu chief and demigod, inspires audiences with her surfing skills and supernatural powers.

• Polynesian women charge regularly alongside the men.

• Hawaiians Mildred Turner and Josephine Pratt are admitted to the Hui Nalu surfing/canoeing club, established by Duke Kahanamoku, the founding father of modern surfing.
• Isabel Letham numbers among Australias original surfers.

• Leslie Lemon, Marion Dowsett, and Beatrice Dowsett, all from Hawaii, are among the first ladies to tandem with Duke.
• Beatrice Newport is touted as the best female surfer in Waikiki.
• Californias Mary Ann Hawkins is the surfing powerhouse of the late 1930s and 1940s.
• Hawaiis Ethel Kukea and Malibus Vickie Flaxman, Robin Grigg, and Aggie Bane dominate womens surfing in the mid to late 1950s.
• Marge Calhoun, from California, is the female surfing presence of the late 1950s and early 1960s.
• The book Gidget is released in 1957, becomes a best seller, and is followed two years later by the movie of the same name; womens surfing hits the mainstream.
• In 1959, Californias Linda Benson, five-time U.S. champion and one of the first female nose-riders and hotdoggers, becomes the first woman to surf the massive waves at Waimea Bay.

• Australias Phyllis ODonnell, winner of the 1964 world title, and Gail Couper, five-time national champion, are the major influences from Down Under.
• Hawaiian Joyce Hoffman wins the world championships in 1965 and 1966, and is the first woman to surf Pipeline.

• Margo Godfrey Oberg (California/Hawaii), four-time world champion, wins her first world title at age fifteen and remains a dominating force on the pro surf scene for over ten years; she is also touted as the best female big-wave rider.
• Lynne Boyer (New Jersey/Hawaii) wins two world titles and is far and away the flashiest female surfer of the decade.
• Hawaiis Rell Sunn, Sally Prange, Patti Paniccia, Claudia Bates, and Becky Benson and Californian Jericho Poppler join the mens tour of South Africa and Brazil, forming the core of the first womens pro tour. Mary Setterholm (California) and Poppler found the Womens International Surfing Association (WISA), the first all-womens pro circuit; their first event is held in San Onofre.