Ann Budd - New Directions in Sock Knitting: 18 Innovative Designs Knitted from Every Which Way

When I set out to acquire socks for this book, I wanted to assemble a collection that differed from every other sock book on the markethence the title New Directions in Sock Knitting. In this book, youll find an array of socks that deviate a little to a lot from the traditional top-down or toe-up construction. From the imaginative ways that heels, gussets, and toes are formed to the ingenious directions of the knitting, this book will change the way you think about knitting socks.

The eighteen designs herein represent the efforts of seventeen designers who have puzzled out new ways to knit socks. The designs range from quite simple socks that are appropriate for first-time sock knitters to quite challenging socks that may require a leap of faith for those accustomed to traditional sock constructions.

The socks in this collection include mitered triangles and scallops, double knitting, intarsia in the round, short-row shaping, mirrored color and texture patterns, the addition of laceweight mohair for warmth and durability, and multiple knitting directions. In all cases, the instructions are written in step-by-step detail that will ensure success, no matter which design you choose to knit.

The designs are separated into three chapters. includes socks that are knitted from side to side, bottom of the sole to the top of the leg, and in multiple directions. These socks include true engineering feats that are the marks of sock-knitting genius.

But before you begin any sock, you need to take fit, yarn, and gauge into consideration.

The best way to determine the size to knit is to wrap a tape measure around the widest part of your foot (). If youre knitting socks as a gift, use the Yarn and Gauge table on to get a general idea of foot (and therefore sock) size based on shoe size.

In general, socks should fit with negative ease so that the stitches have to stretch to hug the foot and leg.

Choose a finished size thats about 12 to 1 inch (1.3 to 2.5 cm) smaller in circumference than your actual foot measurement, unless otherwise directed. If theres not enough stretch, your foot will slide back and forth in the sock and cause friction points that are likely to wear out more quickly that the rest of the sock.

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Many sock yarns contain some percentage of man-made fiber (such as nylon) that adds strength to the dominant fiber (typically wool). If your yarn doesnt contain one of these additions, consider working a strand of reinforcing nylon thread or yarn (available at most knitting stores that carry sock yarn) along as you knit the heel, toe, and any other areas of stress. Although the nylon doesnt prevent the yarn from wearing, its much slower to wear and therefore provides a thin foundation of stitches that you can use as a guide for darning worn areas.

The knitted fabric of a sock should be sturdy enough to withstand the friction that results from walking and rubbing inside a shoe. A perfectly fitting sock will not wear well if the stitches are so loose that they slide along the path of friction at the toes, bottom of foot, and back of heel. For me, the sturdiest socks are knitted at a gauge thats one stitch per inch (2.5 cm) tighter than recommended on the ball band. For example, if the ball band recommends knitting at a gauge of 7 stitches per inch (2.5 cm), Ill knit that yarn at 8 stitches per inch (2.5 cm). Denser stitches wear better because only the outer fibers are subject to abrasion. But be careful not to knit the sock so densely that elasticity is lost and the sock cant be pulled over your heel.

Be sure to measure your gauge on a swatch that has been knitted the same way (in rounds or rows) that the sock will be knitted, using the same yarn, needles, and stitch pattern youll use for the sock. Many knitters knit more tightly than they purl, or vice versa, so that the gauge they get working stockinette stitch in rounds (when the right side is always facing forward) is different from the gauge they get knitting back and forth in rows (when stockinette stitches are alternately knitted and purled). Work a swatch large enough that you can measure at least 2 inches (5 cm) both horizontally (stitch gauge) and vertically (row gauge) well away from the edges of the swatch. To ensure an accurate reading, take measurements in two or three places. Also, be sure to include any partial stitches in your gauge measurements. Although a half stitch may not seem significant over a 2-inch (5-cm) width, it can add an inch or more to the entire sock circumference.

The amount of yarn youll need for a pair of socks depends on the gauge and sock size. In general, the finer the yarn and the bigger the sock, the more yarn youll need. If you plan to add a heavily textured pattern such as cables, youll also need more yarn. Use the table here as a guideline for yarn amounts based on gauge and foot circumference.