Shirley Welch - The Eagle River Valley
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Starting as a trickle in the Rocky Mountains, the Eagle River emerges in a glacial valley, cuts through a spectacular gorge near Red Cliff, and then creates the broad flood plain of the Eagle River Valley. At Dotsero, the river joins the mighty Colorado River. As long as humans have settled along the river, they have depended on it for their livelihood, trapping beaver for hats, mining gold and silver, collecting water for locomotive engines and channeling it for crops and ranching, harvesting ice for food preservation, and, most recently, converting water into snow with modern machines. Today the Eagle River Valley is the backbone of two of the greatest ski areas in the world, Vail and Beaver Creek. Sparkling through the ancient riverbed, the Eagle River continues its course to this day, flowing through the same valley that drew pioneers here in the 19th century.
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The path that led me to compiling this book had many twists and turns. I have written fiction for many years and have had one book published. During my 40 years of life along the Eagle River, I have prowled graveyards and old mining camps, sometimes getting lost and yet finding my way. Several years ago, I joined our hospice association and began to write Living Histories for the appropriate patients. Then I met Frank Doll. As a professional storyteller for over 16 years at the Hyatt Hotel in Beaver Creek, Frank always had a yarn to tell. I worked with Frank for months on his Living History and we became friends. Franks forefathers were some of the Eagle River Valleys earliest settlers. Books have been written about Vail and Beaver Creek, but the early pioneers were largely forgotten. Thanks to Frank and through this book, I have had the opportunity to re-create the early times along the Eagle River and chronicle some of its history.
Thank you to Jaci Spuhler and Mike Johnson at the Eagle Valley Library District for their dedicated work in scanning the photographs. A special thank-you is due to the Eagle Library and Jaci for her time, the use of the librarys equipment, and the archival storage of the photographs. Thank you to the Eagle County Historical Society for allowing me to use their photographs for this work. Thanks to Bill Burnett, who taught me about the ice ponds at Pando and how it all worked. Thank you to Mauri Nottingham, who finally straightened out the Nottingham family tree for me and also clarified some of Franks stories.
Unless otherwise stated, the photographs in this collection came from the Eagle County Historical Society and Shirley Welch.
Burnett, William W. The Eagle on Battle Mountain at Gilman, Colorado and My Life as I Remember. Eagle, CO: Eagle Valley Library District, 2002.
Knight, MacDonald, and Leonard Hammock. Early Days on the Eagle . Eagle, CO: Self-published, 1965.
Mehls, Steven F. The Valley of Opportunity . Denver: Bureau of Land Management, 1982.
Seibert, Peter W. Vail: Triumph of a Dream . Boulder, CO: Mountain Sports Press, 2000.
Simonton, June. Vail . Dallas: Taylor Publishing Company, 1987.
Wolle, Muriel Sibell. Stampede to Timberline: The Ghost Towns and Mining Camps of Colorado . Chicago: Swallow Press, 1974.
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Emerging from the west side of the Continental Divide on Tennessee Pass, the Eagle River begins where the East Fork and South Fork meet in a glacial valley. When the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad arrived in 1882, the rail station was named Pando. For many years, the area lay vacant, but in the early 1900s, as the lettuce, potato, and pea crops became profitable in the lower valleys, Pando became the mecca for ice production.
When the lettuce crops grew brown rot and the Depression hit, that was the end of the need for ice. For a while, Pando remained quiet, but soon the U.S. military decided it needed a place to provide winter warfare training during World War II. Pando was chosen for that purpose because it was suitable for training in skiing, rock climbing, and cold weather survival skills.
To build Camp Hale, the swamp-like conditions of the area needed to be mitigated. Thus the Eagle River was rechanneled into a straight line to provide drainage of the valley.
By the time the construction of Camp Hale was completed, some 40,000 workers were involved. The camp now provided mess halls, barracks, a hospital, a chapel, a fire station, administration buildings, and facilities for the mules. Recreational needs of the troopers included an 18,000-square-foot field house, service clubs, and an auditorium.
Ready access to the camp was provided by the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad and Highway 24, while new water wells were needed for up to 16,000 personnel in training. After World War II, the Central Intelligence Agency trained Tibetan soldiers at the camp. In July 1965, Camp Hale was deactivated and control of the lands returned to the forest service in 1966. All of the buildings at Camp Hale were torn down.
Military use of the Camp Hale included the 10th Mountain Division. After the war, several soldiers who trained at Camp Hale returned to Colorado and developed Vail and Beaver Creek ski areas.
The Eagle River Valley lies in central Colorado. It flows from east to west. Starting at the top of the Continental Divide, it ends nearly 70 miles later when the Eagle River flows into the Colorado River at Dotsero. Along the way, the elevation drop of the valley is nearly 2,000 feet. The Eagle River Valley is made up of the towns of Red Cliff, Gilman, Minturn, Avon, Edwards, Eagle, and Gypsum. The tributaries of Homestake Creek, Turkey Creek, Gore Creek, Cross Creek, Beaver Creek, Lake Creek, Squaw Creek, Brush Creek, Eby Creek, and Gypsum Creek all join the Eagle River along its route. Starting as a trickle deep in rock, the river that forms the Eagle Valley broadens as it continues its journey until it ends in a wide, soil-rich plain just before it enters a deep gorge called Glenwood Canyon.
In 1873, the great Hayden Surveys of Colorado began. Ferdinand Vandiveer Hayden, a professor of medicine from Yale University, was selected to lead surveys throughout western Colorado. Hayden brought geologists, botanists, topographers, and a photographer, William Henry Jackson. In August of that year, Jackson photographed the Mount of the Holy Cross, a 14,000-foot peak in the Sawatch Range, which features a crevasse that forms a cross of snow.
A pack train hauls supplies up the trail to Notch Mountain. From Notch Mountain, a spectacular view of Mountain of the Holy Cross can be seen. Hundreds of people yearly make the pilgrimage to view the cross from Notch Mountain. In 1934, a shelter house was built to give refuge to those making the arduous trek.
Once completed, the rock shelter house became a sentinel to Mount of the Holy Cross. The shelter house was made of rock and stone and was built to withstand extreme temperature changes. Today many enthusiasts climb Notch Mountain and stop at the shelter house to view the cross of snow.
Before 1879, there was no record of a wheeled vehicle entering the Eagle River Valley. In 1880, the Denver and Rio Grande Railroad reached Leadville. The impact of the railroad being built through Colorado and the Continental Divide would change the area dramatically. The first station in the Eagle River Valley was the depot at Pando.
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