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Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez - Faces of Tradition: Weaving Elders of the Andes

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Nilda Callañaupa Alvarez Faces of Tradition: Weaving Elders of the Andes

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In this revealing cultural study, dozens of ancient weavers and the landscapes that they occupy in the Cusco region of the Andes are vividly portrayed through personal stories and life experiences, bringing to life the decades of endurance, skill, fortitude, and natural pride honed from the time-honored traditions of the region and its people. Some of the storytellers featured here include Pitumarcas Timoteo Ccarita, who became so interested in the old textiles he found on his own travels that he re-created tapestry techniques from sight; Leonardo Quispe, who single-handedly rescued and revived the techniques of ikat-style tied-warp dyeing (watay) in his community of Santa Cruz de Sallac; and Cipriana Mamani, who remembers that in her town of Accha Alta, their finely woven textiles had many lives and were repurposed for use over and over again. Intimate photographs capture each of the elders, some of whom had never seen a picture of themselves or even looked in a mirror, revealing the life, strength, character, and experience of these men and women.

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FACES OF TRADITION Weaving Elders of the Andes Other books by Nilda - photo 1
FACES OF TRADITION
Weaving Elders of the Andes
Other books by Nilda Callaaupa Alvarez
Weaving in the Peruvian Highlands: Dreaming Patterns, Weaving Memories
Textile Traditions of Chinchero: A Living Heritage
And by Christine Franquemont
The Ethnobotany of Chinchero, An Andean Community in Southern Peru
Coca and Cocaine: Effects on People and Policy in Latin America
FACES OF TRADITION
Weaving Elders of the Andes
Nilda Callaaupa Alvarez and Christine Franquemont Photography by Joe Coca
Editor and Publisher: Linda Ligon
Design and illustration: Michael Angelo Signorella
Production Manager: Trish Faubion
Text and graphics 2013, Thrums LLC. Photography (except where noted) 2013, Joe Coca
All rights reserved.
Cover image: ALBERTINA HALANOCA MAMANI (b 1943) is a widow from Totora, a community near Accha, Alta.
ISBN: 978-0-9838860-4-4
978-1-5073-0243-9 (Epub)
Faces of Tradition Weaving Elders of the Andes - image 2
306 North Washington
Loveland, Colorado 80537 USA
Faces of Tradition Weaving Elders of the Andes - image 3
603 Avenida del Sol
Cusco, Peru
Printed in China by Asia Pacific
Library of Congress Control Number 2013944219
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2
Dedication
Our gratitude to the Elder master weavers who guard the knowledge of textile traditions and culture. Without their generous collaboration in sharing with us their time and lives, telling us their personal stories, this project could never have happened. We are grateful to all the weavers in all the communities that work with the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco.
Weavers of Patabamba marvel at seeing their photographs on computer - photo 4
Weavers of Patabamba marvel at seeing their photographs on computer - photo 5
Weavers of Patabamba marvel at seeing their photographs on computer.
FOREWORD S ometimes books come to a publisher by way of a tidy proposal - photo 6
FOREWORD
S ometimes books come to a publisher by way of a tidy proposal: pitch, outline, sample chapter. This book came to pass in a different way.
It was 2010, and the Center for Traditional Textiles of Cusco (CTTC) had just hosted Tinkuy de Tejedores - a gathering of weavers of the Americas. It was a splendid event. Interesting presentations, riotous after-hours festivities (native dances both comical and dramatic, shrill huaynos echoing through the night). But best of all, people. In addition to foreign visitors, some 400 weavers from throughout the Cusco district came in by bus to experience this tribute to their craft.
A few of us who had been involved in planning the event were having dinner afterward in a dark little candlelit caf in Cusco. Nilda Callaaupa, director of CTTC. Betty Doerr and Chris Franquemont, co-chairs of Andean Textile Arts. My long-time photographer sidekick, Joe Coca. Me. I think Joe said it first: what he would remember most were the faces of the weavers, the Elders who came to receive special recognition. How much he would love to have the opportunity to capture them on film.
It would be so wonderful to honor our Elders in that way, Nilda said. Lets do it! Lets make a book, I said. Well, if youre going to make a book, you need a cultural anthropologist to help write it, Chris said. Done.
Just a little more than six months later, we were back in Cusco with what seemed like a ton of cameras and gear - lights, reflectors, lenses, tripods, and a hardy assistant to help haul it around. Nilda had arranged to have groups of Elders meet in each of the nine communities that are part of CTTC, so she could record their stories and Joe could take portraits.
A typical day meant loading the gear in a van and driving up impossibly steep and narrow dirt roads for an hour, two, three, eight. The Elders were usually there to greet us, unless they had pressing need to tend flocks or visit a sick relative. Telling their personal stories, speaking of their life experiences, was an unfamiliar exercise.
Posing for the camera was even more strange. Some of the Elders had never seen a picture of themselves; some had never looked in a mirror. They were patient, serious, trusting. The spindles you see so many of them holding are not props: they never stop spinning. We would ask, Can you hold your spindle still for just a minute? No, not really. Spinning is reflexive, imperative.
Joe is one of those photographers who really wants to find the happiness in people. Its a reflection of his nature. So he learned to say asirikunky, smile! in Quechua. For a few of the Elders, a smile came naturally. For most, it was a stretch. After much urging, they would look at each other solemnly and then burst into laughter. Only later did we know they were saying something like, Is he crazy? What do we have to smile about? Levity aside, his images reveal so much about the life, strength, character, and experience of these men and women.
After our visits, Nilda spent countless hours listening to the taped interviews, teasing out interesting insights, making records of lives. Then Chris translated Nildas Spanish manuscript into English and brought what she knew from living many years in Chinchero and visiting the far reaches of the Cusco district to round out the stories. Eventually, it came together: the history, the stories, the images.
You hold it in your hands. Read the faces. Imagine the decades of endurance, skill, and cultural pride that inform their gazes, that spin the threads of their lives.
Linda Ligon, editor and publisher
Nilda Callaaupa and Linda Ligon on the road to Mahuaypampa Photo by - photo 7
Nilda Callaaupa and Linda Ligon on the road to Mahuaypampa.
Photo by Christine Franquemont with her husband Ed far left and daughters - photo 8
Photo by Christine Franquemont with her husband Ed far left and daughters - photo 9
Photo by:
Christine Franquemont with her husband Ed (far left) and daughters Molly and Abby, with their compadres and comadres (including master weaver Benita Gutierrez), enjoying a Sunday in the Chinchero plaza around 1976. Photo provided by the author.
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