Edwin Coolidge Kimball - Midnight Sunbeams; or, Bits of Travel Through the Land of the Norseman

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MIDNIGHT SUNBEAMS.

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Frontispiece

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MIDNIGHT SUNBEAMS
OR
BITS OF TRAVEL THROUGH THE LAND
OF THE NORSEMAN

BY
EDWIN COOLIDGE KIMBALL
BOSTON
CUPPLES AND HURD, Publishers

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To
WALTER H. CAMP,
In memory of years of friendship, this book is affectionately dedicated.

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PREFACE.

The following sketches of a journey in Norway, Sweden, and Denmark are given to the public in the hope that their perusal will furnish information concerning the people, and attractions, of countries which are being visited by Americans more and more each succeeding year. While they may impart some useful knowledge to intending travellers over the same ground, it is hoped as well that they will furnish entertainment to those who travel only through books.

The memories of the days passed in the North are so sunny and delightful, that I wish others to enjoy them with me; and if the reader receives a clear impression of the novel experiences and thorough pleasure attending a journey through Norseland, and partakes, if only in a limited degree, of my enthusiasm over the character of the people and the imposing grandeurs of nature, the object of this book will be accomplished.

E. C. K.

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CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I. COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS.

PAGE

LbeckJourney to CopenhagenHerr RentierBertel ThorvaldsenMuseumsAn Evening at the TivoliSouvenirs of HamletA Famous Mother-in-lawThe Frederiksborg PalaceAn Aimless Widow

CHAPTER II. ACROSS SWEDEN BY THE GOTHA CANAL.

A Day at GothenburgThe Gotha CanalLife on the VenusKeeping our Meal AccountsThe Trollhtta FallsPastoral ScenerySwedish Boarding-School GirlsLake Mlar

CHAPTER III. IN AND ABOUT STOCKHOLM.

The Islands and Features of the CityThe Westminster Abbey of SwedenInteresting MuseumsLeading City for TelephonesScenes at Evening ConcertsThe Multitude of ExcursionsDown the Baltic to VaxholmRoyal Castles on the LakeUniversity Town of Upsala

CHAPTER IV. RAILWAY JOURNEY TO THRONDHJEM.

Swedish Railways and Meal StationsAmong the Snow BanksThe Descent to ThrondhjemThe Shrine of St. OlafNorth Cape Steamers

CHAPTER V. THE NORWEGIAN NORDLAND.

The Ever-Present SalmonA Cheese ExhibitionThe Blessed Island BeltTorghtta and the Seven SistersScenes within the Arctic CircleVisit to the Svartisen GlacierCoasting along the Lofoden IslandsSea Fowl and Eider DucksReindeer Swimming across the Fjord

CHAPTER VI. FROM TROMS TO THE NORTH CAPE.

The Sights of TromsA Visit to a Whale-Oil FactoryThe Most Northern Town in the WorldBird Islands in the Arctic OceanA Picnic at the Base of the North CapeThe Midnight SunPerplexities of Perpetual Day

CHAPTER VII. THE VOYAGE BACK TO THRONDHJEM.

The Lyngen FjordLapp Encampment in the TromsdalA Smuke PigeLapp Huts and BabiesReindeer, and their Manifold UsesLoading CattleFarewell Appearance of the Midnight SunScenes among the Steerage

CHAPTER VIII. MOLDE AND THE ROMSDAL.

ChristiansundResting at MoldeLeprosy in NorwayFirst Carriole DriveStruggling with the Norse LanguageWalk through the Romsdal

CHAPTER IX. A MOUNTAIN WALK.

Steamboat ServiceA Night in a Mountain SterPrimitive AccommodationsA Talkative FarmerRiding Horseback under DifficultiesAn Exhausting Tramp and a Trial of PatienceUp the Geiranger Fjord to MerokApproach to Hellesylt

CHAPTER X. ACROSS COUNTRY DRIVE.

Posting System and Manner of Travelling in the InteriorCharacteristics of the NorwegiansA Days CarriolingA Morning WalkRival InnkeepersScenes in the Hay FieldsOur Third Days RideResting at Sande

CHAPTER XI. ON AND ABOUT THE SOGNEFJORD.

A Day on the SognefjordEvening Scenes at a Norwegian HotelCarrioling through the LaerdalBorgund ChurchThe Grandeurs of the Naerfjord and Walk through the NaerdalOur Drive to VossevangenA Morning Walk to Eide

CHAPTER XII. THE HARDANGER FJORD.

A Sabbath at VikRoad BuildingVisit to the VringsfosOdde on the SrfjordExcursion to the SkjggedalsfosThe BruarbrFrom Odde by Steamer to Bergen

CHAPTER XIII. BERGEN.

Our Experiences in the Weeping CityScenes in the Fish MarketRainy Walks about TownA Beneficial Licence SystemVoyage across the North SeaUp the River Maas to Rotterdam

CHAPTER XIV. EXPENSES AND PRACTICAL HINTS.

What Did it Cost?The Route and Time Allowed for the JourneyClothing and FoodLadies Travelling AloneThe Result of Politeness and ConsiderationConclusion

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COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS.

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CHAPTER I.
COPENHAGEN AND ENVIRONS.

LbeckJourney to CopenhagenHerr RentierBertel ThorvaldsenMuseumsAn Evening at the TivoliSouvenirs of HamletA Famous Mother-in-lawThe Frederiksborg PalaceAn Aimless Widow.

It was on a charming day in June, after an hours railway ride from Hamburg, that we arrived at Lbeckthe starting point of our journey through Scandinavia. Lbeck is the smallest of the three independent Hanseatic towns of the German Empire, both Hamburg and Bremen far surpassing her in size and importance, yet at one time she stood at the head of the Hanseatic Leaguethe alliance of the great commercial towns of North Germany.

Architecturally, Lbeck is one of the most interesting places in Germany. You enter the town from the railway station through the Holstenthor, a wonderful medival gateway of red brick and terracotta, and soon reach the market-place, on two sides of which rises the venerable Rathhaus, a Gothic building in brick, with many gables, turrets and quaint spires; extending underneath it is the Rathskeller, remarkable for its well-preserved vaulting, as well as for its excellent Rhine wines and claret. The chimney piece in the apartment, where wedding festivities were formerly celebrated, bears the following inscriptiona genuine bachelor sentimentMennich man lude synghet wen me em de Brut bringet; weste he wat men em brochte, dat he wol wenen mochte (Many a man sings loudly when they bring him his bride; if he knew what they brought him, he might well weep).

On one side of the square is the handsome modern post-office constructed in the medival style; here and there in the quiet streets we came upon the elaborately carved fronts of the ancient guild halls, and buildings with high steep roofs filled with odd windows like great blinking eyes; in one of the squares is a handsome modern fountain, and before a hotel near by stand two colossal cast-iron lions designed by the famous German sculptor Rauch, while scattered about the city are numerous churches containing interesting monuments, mural paintings and ancient altar-pieces.

The river Trave winding about the city renders it almost an island; the old ramparts have been converted into promenades and pleasure gardens, and from them one has an extended view of the busy harbor and its shipping, while the many towers, and lofty numerously windowed roofs of the houses and public buildings rising above it, present a striking and picturesque effect. We could not think of leaving the old city without first investing in some of the marzipan, for which Lbeck is celebrated; it is a sort of confect or cake made of sugar and almonds, very sweet and insipid to the taste, and doubtless one must acquire a liking for it the same as for the varied assortment of German sausages.

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