Ursula Ferrigno - Cucina Siciliana: Fresh and vibrant recipes from a unique Mediterranean island

CUCINA SICILIANA

CUCINA SICILIANA

FRESH AND VIBRANT RECIPES FROM A UNIQUE MEDITERRANEAN ISLAND

Ursula Ferrigno

WITH PHOTOGRAPHY BY David Munns

Dedication

To Daddy, for showing me Sicily many years ago in a unique manner a huge lunch conducted in a vineyard, with a grumpy driver and a flat tyre.

Senior Designer Toni Kay

Commissioning Editor Nathan Joyce

Picture Manager Christina Borsi

Head of Production Patricia Harrington

Art Director Leslie Harrington

Editorial Director Julia Charles

Publisher Cindy Richards

Food Stylist Emily Kydd

Prop Stylist Victoria Allen

Indexer Vanessa Bird

First published in 2016

This edition published in 2019

by Ryland Peters & Small

2021 Jockeys Fields

London WC1R 4BW

and

341 East 116th Street

New York NY 10029

www.rylandpeters.com

Text Ursula Ferrigno 2016, 2019

Design and photographs Ryland Peters & Small 2016, 2019

eISBN: 978-1-78879-249-3

ISBN: 978-1-78879-117-5

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

The authors moral rights have been asserted. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher.

Printed and bound in China.

CIP data from the Library of Congress has been applied for. A CIP record for this book is available from the British Library.

Notes

Both British (metric) and American (imperial plus US cups) are included in these recipes; however, it is important to work with one set of measurements and not alternate between the two within a recipe.

All spoon measurements are level unless otherwise specified.

All eggs are medium (UK) or large (US), unless specified as large, in which case US extra large should be used. Uncooked or partially cooked eggs should not be served to the very old, frail, young children, pregnant women or those with compromised immune systems.

Ovens should be preheated to the specified temperatures. We recommend using an oven thermometer. If using a fan-assisted oven, adjust temperatures according to the manufacturers instructions.

When a recipe calls for the grated zest of citrus fruit, buy unwaxed fruit and wash well before using. If you can only find treated fruit, scrub well in warm soapy water before using.

Contents

Sicily is an intriguing, beguiling place. Its prominent position in the Mediterranean has crowned it with an ancient and lasting importance and led to repeated conquests over the centuries, giving it an extraordinary cultural legacy. It has one of the worlds best cuisines thanks to the complex influences and fusion of flavours left behind by the Greeks, Romans, Arabs, Normans and Spanish who have each occupied this fertile land.

My first visit to Sicily was an eye opener. I accompanied my father who ran a fruit and vegetable business on a business trip, taking the ferry from mainland Italy. And my first taste of Sicilian food was in the ferry cafeteria arancini were heaped into tiny mounds, the shape of Mount Etna. They were, like the people I was soon to meet, warm, generous, unexpected and comforting. These rice morsels, probably stemming originally from Arabia, were stuffed with hidden ingredients. There were five varieties, which seemed to reflect a brief history of Sicilian invaders with every bite. The rice had been stuffed with bolognese, cheese, meat, tomatoes, spices and rolled into a hand-held snack. Moreish and totally delicious, they were a beautiful statement of what was to come.

As we approached the shores, the snow-capped Mount Etna commanded attention and respect, with smoke billowing against the bluest of blue skies. Its no surprise that the volcanic soil is special; intensely rich and fertile, and combined with the brilliant sunshine, the land produces ingredients that are so wonderful they speak for themselves.

The islands unique food is bright, earthy and suffused with the intensity of the Sicilian sun. Not surprisingly, many of the typical dishes are made with fish and seafood. Cream and butter are rarely used and instead, juicy tomatoes or the islands own fragrant olive oil are substituted. Sheeps milk ricotta is another staple ingredient, as are black and green olives, wild fennel (which grows all over the hills) and the cultivated citrus fruits that are used in almost everything, from salads to desserts.

In the chapters that follow, youll discover authentic recipes for the best food Sicily has to offer, starting with antipasti. Choose from Arancini di Riso (risotto croquettes) or Gustoso Olive Nero (olive relish). Vibrant salads such as Insalata di Orangio di Torocci (blood orange and red onion salad) are perfect for summer eating, as are the light soups and pasta dishes including Fogie di Zucchine con Pomodoro Fresche e Pastina (courgette/zucchini leaf and fresh tomato soup) or Pasta Picchi Pacchi (spaghetti with tomato and almond sauce). Delicious meat and fish recipes include Sardine a Beccafico (stuffed sardines) and Abbacchio alla Cacciatovia (pan-fried spring lamb with herbs and anchovy sauce). There are traditional breads, such as Pane Rimacinati (semolina mountain bread). Sicilians notoriously have a sweet tooth and are among the best dessert-makers in Italy. Indulge in Gelato al Pistachio (pistachio ice cream), Cannoli (pastry tubes filled with sweetened ricotta) and possibly Sicilys most famous export, Cassata.

Fried chickpeas with herbs

Ceci fritti con salvia e origano

This very simple treatment of chickpeas which are abundant in Sicily has its roots firmly anchored in North Africa. Its a popular street food, often eaten as a merenda or afternoon snack, and also commonly served at Sagre festivals to celebrate the season of a particular ingredient. Its a welcome change from peanuts and crisps as an aperitivo, but also works in a salad.

200 g/1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dried chickpeas, soaked in water overnight with 2 bay leaves, 2 garlic cloves and a handful of parsley