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Wilfred M. Webb - Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes

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    Heritage of Dress: Being Notes on the History and Evolution of Clothes
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THE HERITAGE OF DRESS Very early man in Java Chapter PLATE I THE - photo 1

THE HERITAGE OF DRESS

Very early man in Java. (Chapter .)
PLATE I.

THE HERITAGE
OF DRESS
BEING NOTES ON THE HISTORY
AND EVOLUTION OF CLOTHES
BY
WILFRED MARK WEBB
FELLOW OF THE LINNEAN SOCIETY OF LONDON
CURATOR OF ETON COLLEGE MUSEUM
WITH ELEVEN PLATES
AND ONE HUNDRED AND SIXTY-NINE FIGURES IN THE TEXT
LONDON
E. GRANT RICHARDS
1907

TO MY WIFE
HILDA E. WEBB

PREFACE
It would be difficult to find a subject of more universal interest than that of dress, and hosts of books have been written which deal with the attire that has been adopted at different times and by various nations or social classes. The ornamental and artistic sides of the question have also received much consideration, but the volumes that have appeared serve chiefly as works of reference. The present book aims at being of more immediate interest and usefulness; it starts with things as they are, and is really a popular contribution to the natural history of man.
On all sides the advantages of observation and the need for the nature-study method in education are being rightly urged, but there is a tendency to narrow the purview. Anything in our environment is worthy of notice, and though attention is well directed towards that which is least artificial, we should not leave man and his works altogether on one side. There is material for observation, research, and deduction, even in a bowler hat and a cut-away coat.
One of the pleasantest features in connection with the making of this book has been the kind and ready help which I have received from all sides. Here and there throughout the text the names of friends and correspondents who have given their assistance have been mentioned. To these I offer my hearty thanks, as well as to the following, who with suggestions, information, or with material for illustrations, have contributed in no small way to the interest of the book: Messrs. Fownes Brothers & Company, Mr. Allan A. Hooke, Mr. W. S. Ward, Mr. Karl, of Messrs. Nathan & Company, Messrs. Tress & Company, Messrs. Lincoln & Bennett, Mr. M. D. Hill, the Rev. A. W. Upcott, Head Master of Christs Hospital, Miss Clark, Miss Hodgson, the Rev. R. Ashington Bullen, Mr. Henry Miller, of the Church Association, Mr. Ravenscroft, of Messrs. Ede Sons & Ravenscroft, Mr. Paley Baildon, Mr. George Hertslet, of the Lord Chamberlains Office, Messrs. Wilkinson & Company, Mr. C. M. Mhlberg, Mr. W. S. Parker, of Messrs. Debenhams, Ltd., Capt. H. Trench, Major J. W. Mallet, of the Army and Navy Gazette, Mr. Basil White, of Messrs. Hawkes & Company, Mr. W. H. Jesson, Messrs. Souter & Company, Mr. William Lawrence, Mr. Heather Bigg, Dr. J. Cantlie, and the Rt. Hon. Viscountess Harberton.
A glance at the bibliography, which is given on pages , will show the principal books and papers to which reference has been made.
In connection with the illustrations, special thanks must be given to Monsieur Maurice Sand, the Editor of the Review of the University of Brussels, for his kind permission to reproduce a number of the figures used to illustrate a translation of Sir George Darwins article. These are Figures .
For the original of Plate is reprinted from The Reliquary, by the kind permission of Messrs. Bemrose and Sons, and the source of other illustrations is acknowledged beneath them, while the classic collection of pictures which were brought together by the late Mr. F. W. Fairholt to illustrate his Costume in England has proved, as will be seen, of the utmost service.
In conclusion, I have much pleasure in calling attention to the time and care which Mr. W. J. Webb has expended upon the figures, which are a feature of the book; and I must mention the willing help which I have been afforded in a number of details by Miss Amy Astbury and Mr. Bernard Weaver.
WILFRED MARK WEBB.
Odstock, Hanwell,
November, 1907.

CONTENTS
I
THE THRALL OF DRESSPAGE
The principles of evolution applied to clothes
II
THE ORIGIN OF DRESS
III
DEVELOPMENT OF THE MODERN COAT
The ancestral shawlProblematical buttons
IV
BUTTONS AS CHRONICLES
Episodes in the later history of the coat and cuffs
V
COLLARS AND BANDS
Nicks in coat lapelsThe why and wherefore of the white shirt front
VI
VESTIGES IN THE HAT
How hats were evolvedWhy plumes are on the left sideThe growth of the busbyHelmets and cocked hats
VII
SHOES AND STOCKINGS
Early foot-gearThe origin of the clockA modern imitation of tattooingGaily coloured garters
VIII
PETTICOATS AND TROUSERS
The belted plaid and kiltEarly skirtsThe antiquity of trousersTrouser stripes
IX
COATS OF ARMS
Signet ringsArmorial bearingsEscutcheonsCrestsBadges
X
GLOVES AND MITTENS
Origin of the babys gloveFourchettesThe points on the backs of gloves
XI
TAGS, PINS, AND BALDRICS
LacesThe evolution and vagaries of the safety-pinPrimitive methods of carrying burdens as illustrated by muff-chains, baldrics, and yokes
XII
ORNAMENTS
Primitive necklacesFinger ringsThe origin of the hair combButtonsStudsFlowersFeathersAmulets
XIII
HAIR DRESSING
Head shavingWigs that are still wornRoman curls and fringes
XIV
SPECIAL DRESSES
Fashions kept up by ceremoniesSurvivals in special costumeFlowing garments
XV
SERVANTS DRESS
The prototypes of liveriesReminiscences of George II and George IIIOrigin of the page-boys buttonsThe jockey capAprons
XVI
COCKADES
The cockade a degenerated chaperonThe varieties of the cockadeCockade wearers
XVII
CHILDRENS DRESS
Survivals in childrens dressSpecial school costumesThe blue-coat boyPublic school boysAdoption of special dress at girls schools
XVIII
WEDDING GARMENTS
The veilBridesmaids and briberyOld shoesOrange blossom
XIX
MOURNING
Colours associated with mourningWidows weedsPerennial mourning
XX
COSTUME CONNECTED WITH RELIGION
The surplice and the clothThe civil origin of vestmentsFine vestmentsProcessional vestments, so calledNuns dressThe choker
XXI
SUNDAY CLOTHES
The significance of Sunday clothesThe wearing of hats in church by ladies
XXII
ACADEMICAL DRESS
Gowns and hanging sleevesThe forerunner of the hoodThe origin of the doctors hatThe evolution of the mortar-board
XXIII
LEGAL DRESS
Vestiges of the coifHoods and gownsSigns of mourning
XXIV
STATE AND COURT ATTIRE
Coronation dressParliamentary robesMistakes in Court dressVestiges of the wig and of the chaperonCourt cards
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