Anna Hezel - Tin to Table
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To Dan
Theres no one Id rather share a tin with.
INTRODUCTION
Which aisle of the grocery store can transport you to the cerulean coves of the Costa Brava, the rocky shores of Brittany, or the salmon smokehouses overlooking Alaskas Bristol Bay? Only the canned fish aisle, where youll find tins full of salty treasures from around the world, miraculously preserved, sometimes mere hours after being plucked from the sea.
These tidy stacks of cans are what make the tuna melts of your late-night diner dreams come true. Theyre the briny anchovies that make the world of restaurant Caesar salads and bagna caudas go round. Theyre the juicy fried dace with salted black beans from Chinas Pearl River Delta, which will make your stir-fries come alive. And theyre the rectangular tins of sardines that make you feel like youre picnicking on the Mediterranean, even when youre just taking a snack break in the middle of a long hike or an eight-hour workday.
The story of canned fish starts, believe it or not, with Napoleon. In 1795, facing the challenges of leading (and feeding) his troops across land and sea during the Napoleonic Wars, Napoleon offered a cash prize of 12,000 francs to the first person who invented a new method of food preservation. A chef and brewer named Nicolas Appert rose to the challenge and spent the next fourteen years figuring out how to preserve prepared foods by heating them inside glass jars and sealing these jars against any intruding microbes. A year later, in 1810, a British businessman named Peter Durand patented a similar process using tin, and canning was off to the races, ready to feed soldiers, explorers, and inlanders with a taste for oysters.
In the intervening centuries, these tins have made their way into hundreds of dishes and cuisines around the world. Theyve fueled overseas voyages and treks up Mount Everest. Before there was refrigeration, preserving sea creatures with plenty of salt and oil, and then vacuum sealing them in tin cans to remove oxygen, made it possible for us to enjoy them for months, years, and sometimes even decades (really, its been done!) after they were fished out of the ocean.
A few centuries (and grocery delivery apps) later, these canned goods arent just a pragmatic form of survival or conveniencetheyre luxury imports, collectibles, and souvenirs. (Who needs an album of vacation snapshots when you can just sit down with friends and show them the tins you brought back?) There are entire YouTube channels, Instagram accounts, lines of merch, and subreddits dedicated to the topic of tinned fish. We dont eat canned fish because we have towe eat it because its a lifestyle.
Following Spain and Portugals lead, a whole wave of bars and restaurants in the United States have added tins to their menus, putting as much thought and care into curating their selections as they put into their wine lists. At the end of a busy day in Manhattan, you can stop at Maiden Lane for a martini and a breathtaking tin of Don Bocarte anchovies. If youre biking your way around Portland, Maine, on a warm summer day, you can drop in at the Shop (an outpost of Island Creek Oysters) for a Bloody Mary and a tin of Ramn Pea sardines, served with a smattering of great pickles and slices of honey wheat bread. Theres Saltie Girl, in Boston; Bar Diane, in Portland, Oregon; and JarrBar, in Seattle. This is only a small sampling of the many restaurants that are putting their own personalized stamps on curated selections of tins.
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