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Jane Grigson - English food

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First published in 1974, this book, now revised and updated, reveals the richness and surprising diversity of Englands culinary heritage.

Jane Grigson: author's other books


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PENGUIN BOOKS

ENGLISH FOOD

Jane Grigson was brought up in the north-east of England, where there is a strong tradition of good eating, but it was not until many years later, when she began to spend three months of each year in France, that she became really interested in food. Charcuterie and French Pork Cookery was the result, exploring the wonderful range of cooked meat products on sale in even the smallest market towns. This book has also been translated into French, a singular honour for an English cookery writer.

After taking an English degree at Cambridge in 1949, Jane Grigson worked in art galleries and publishers offices, and then as a translator. In 1966 she shared the John Florio prize (with Father Kenelm Foster) for her translation of Beccarias Of Crime and Punishment. It was in 1968 that Jane Grigson began her long association with the Observer Magazine, for whom she wrote right up until her untimely death in 1990; Good Things and Food with the Famous are both based on these highly successful series. In 1973, Fish Cookery was published by the Wine and Food Society, followed by The Mushroom Feast (1975), a collection of recipes for cultivated, woodland, field and dried mushrooms. She received both the Glenfiddich Writer of the Year Award and the Andr Simon Memorial Fund Book Award for her Vegetable Book (1978) and for her Fruit Book (1982), and was voted Cookery Writer of the Year in 1977 for English Food. A compilation of her best recipes, The Enjoyment of Food, was published in 1992 with an introduction by her daughter, the cookery writer Sophie Grigson. Most of Jane Grigsons books are published in Penguin.

Jane Grigson died in March 1990. In her obituary for the Independent, Alan Davidson wrote that Jane Grigson left to the English-speaking world a legacy of fine writing on food and cookery for which no exact parallel exists She won to herself this wide audience because she was above all a friendly writer the most companionable presence in the kitchen; often catching the imagination with a deftly chosen fragment of history or poetry, but never failing to explain the why as well as the how of cookery. Jane Grigson was married to the poet and critic, the late Geoffrey Grigson.

Sophie Grigson was born in 1959, the daughter of Jane and Geoffrey Grigson. She has contributed to many magazines and newspapers, including the Evening Standard, the Independent, and the Sunday Times Magazine. Her first book, Food for Friends, was published in 1987, since when she has written many cookery books, including Sophies Table (1990), Sophie Grigsons Ingredients Book (1991) and Eat Your Greens, which accompanied her television series of the same name. Her latest television series, which has an accompanying book, is about herbs.

ENGLISH FOOD

Jane Grigson

With a Foreword by Sophie Grigson

Picture 1

PENGUIN BOOKS

PENGUIN BOOKS

Published by the Penguin Group

Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

Penguin Putnam Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA

Penguin Books Australia Ltd, 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia

Penguin Books Canada Ltd, 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M4V 3B2

Penguin Books India (P) Ltd, 11 Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110 017, India

Penguin Books (NZ) Ltd, Cnr Rosedale and Airborne Roads, Albany, Auckland, New Zealand

Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd, 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank 2196, South Africa

Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, England

www.penguin.com

First published 1974

This edition first published by Ebury Press, an imprint of Random Century, 1992

Published in Penguin Books 1993

Copyright Jane Grigson, 1974

This revised edition copyright Sophie Grigson, 1992

All rights reserved

The moral right of the author has been asserted

The illustrations that appear in this book are by: Clare Leighton ()

Except in the United States of America, this book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not, by way of trade or otherwise, be lent, re-sold, hired out, or otherwise circulated without the publishers prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which it is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser

ISBN: 978-0-14-194963-5

For Geoffrey and Sophie

and for my parents in whose house

I first learnt about

good English food

29 February 1788: We gave the company for dinner some fish and oyster sauce, a nice piece of boiled beef, a fine neck of pork roasted and apple sauce, some hashed turkey, mutton steaks, salad, etc., a wild duck roasted, fried rabbits, a plum pudding and some tartlets. Dessert, some olives, nuts, almonds and raisins and apples. The whole company were pleased with their dinner, etc. Considering we had not above three hours notice of their coming we did very well in that short time. All of us were rather hurried on the occasion.

R EV .J AMES W OODFORDE

CONTENTS
A CKNOWLEDGEMENTS

T HANKS ARE DUE to the following people for the recipes and information they have provided: Elizabeth Bolgar; D. M. Dickson; Julia Drysdale and the Game Conservancy; Sandy Grigson; Bobby Freeman; Ann Irving; Winifred McQuiggen; Joyce Molyneux; Peggy Murray; Evelyn Wilcock; Breian Lloyd-Davies; the late Michael Smith; George Willacy; Malcolm Young; H. Horton of the Manchester Library of Social Sciences; Mary Norwak; Tony Jones of the National Federation of Womens Institutes, and the many secretaries of county branches who sent me their publications; Guy Mouilleron, chef-proprietor of Ma Cuisine, Walton Street, London; Mrs Sleightholme and Woman magazine; Janet Smith of the Liverpool Record Office, Pamela Harlech; Mrs C. L. Roope; Mary Hatchwell; Fiona Andrews; the late Sheila Hutchins, who helped me find the source of several recipes. Thanks, too, to Marjorie White, who helped with the cooking and with suggestions, and who kept the household going through a long and difficult winter, and to my daughter, Sophie, who also helped with the cooking and with much vigorous criticism. I am also grateful to the copyright holders of those recipes I have quoted from published sources, and due acknowledgements will be found in the text.

FOREWORD

S HORTLY BEFORE HER 60 TH BIRTHDAY , my mother decided that as from official retirement age, she was only going to work on things that really interested her. No more duty jobs or public appearances because she felt she ought to. She had paid her dues and her retirement was to be able to concentrate purely on writing for her own pleasure. One project, long cherished, that she could now make time for was a second revision of her book English Food, published first in 1974 and revised once in 1979.

In the unfairly short two years of her retirement, Jane never stopped working there was always so much that did interest her even between the grim sessions of chemotherapy that failed to halt her cancer. The new English Food took shape, and in the last few months before her death she threw herself into the work, aware, perhaps, that time was not on her side. She almost completed it, leaving only the final chapter, Stuffings, Sauces & Preserves untouched.

Almost twenty years after it was first written, English Food remains the outstanding book on the subject. Of course, it was written by a marvellous writer. All of Janes books are a delight to read and to linger over before (and after) heading, volume in hand, for the kitchen. Her recipes always work, too. Something that cannot be said of all cookery writers, sadly. Second-hand copies of her books are comparatively rare. Dog-eared and much loved, they stay on readers shelves until they fall to pieces and have to be replaced with a new copy.

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