This book is dedicated to the memory of my best friend, Alberto Fras, who made every moment a fiesta latina.
Many thanks to my terrific writer, Arlen Gargagliano; my agent, Jane Dystel; my editor, Bill LeBlond, along with Amy Treadwell and the staff at Chronicle Books; my Chronicle publicity manager, Michael Weisberg; and my staff at Pacfico and Sonora.
You can feel the warmth as soon as you enter. Embraces and soft kisses welcome you into the party. Youre greeted with a wave of music, animated conversations, and the enticing aroma of food. Sparkling with people, brimming with all kinds of treats and tragos (drinks), there is nothing like una fiesta latina! Trays of gorgeous bite-size appetizers are passed throughout the room; and side tables are adorned with bowls of fresh vegetable and fruit salsas; serving platters of tamales, empanadas, and ceviches; and assortments of marinated and grilled skewers of chicken, beef, lobster, and shrimp.
The barcolorful with Passion Fruit Caipirinhas, Coconut Mojitos, and Pomegranate Margaritasbuzzes with laughter. Amidst a backdrop of music that provokes slight hip swinging, fingers reach to choose from the platters of grilled Sugarcane Shrimp Skewers with Jalapeo Coconut Sauce; Ropa Vieja Duck Dumplings; and Sonora Tostones with Pacfico Garlic Herb Mojito. The smiles say it all: la fiesta latina is sunshine, electricity, and, por supuesto (of course), fabulous flavors.
Ive loved throwing parties for a long time. When I was growing up in Colombia, my parents and family enjoyed the givingand receivingthat comes from hosting numerous events, from cocktail parties and Sunday afternoon dinners to special-occasion fiestas like birthdays, anniversaries, and weddings. I guess Ive got that party-giving gene, which is probably what prompted me to get into the restaurant business in the first place! In both of my Port Chester, New York, restaurants, as well as in my New Haven restaurant, and my new place in Greenwich, Connecticut, and through Pasin, my catering company, I continue to throw many, many parties. But I also play host at home, with the help of my wife and our two children, who are now old enough to assistand enjoythe whole party process.
So how do you make a party Latin-style? There are some basic steps I follow, whether Im prepping for an off-premises party that I cater, for an event in one of my restaurants, or for a gathering in my own home. I always tell the hosts that by following these steps, they canas they shouldenjoy the pre-party process as well as the party. Organization is key: write listsand read them! (Whenever we cater a party, there are lists posted in the kitchen so that we all chefs, helpers, and wait staffcan refer to them as needed.) I strongly urge you to do the same. After all, the adrenaline that hosts feel prior to their guests arrival should be from excitement and anticipation, not from the stress of having forgotten some important piece of the party prep.
First and foremost, theres the menu. Choose dishes that match your party in terms of time of day. For example, if its a brunch, you may want to serve the Pacfico Lobster and Scrambled Egg Wrap, along with Colombian Arepas de Choclo with Guacamole. You could complement those appetizers with ceviches, like the Chilean Salmon and Pomegranate Ceviche, or even the Blood Orange, Shrimp, and Mango-Wasabi Ceviche. Lobster Chipotle Crabcakes, or the Sirloin Steak, Aj Amarillo, and Shiitake Mushroom Spring Rolls would make equally welcome additions to your menu, with which I would include cocktails like Mango Caipiroskas, and perhaps Pomegranate Margaritas. Of course, an early-evening cocktail partyor a Saturday night dinner party would most likely have a different choice of dishes and cocktails.
The weather will also be a deciding factor in your menu. For example, if its a steamy summer day, go with a cooling cevichelike my Watermelon, Shrimp, and Jalapeo Chile Ceviche, maybe the Charred Yellow Tomato and Cilantro Gazpacho, and some grilled appetizers like the Sugarcane Shrimp Skewers with Jalapeo Coconut Sauce, or the Marinated Lobster Tail and Scallop Pinchos. Serve with thirst-quenching Mojitoslike the Coconut or Pineapple Mojito. If its a chilly day, choose warming treats like Arroz Moro, Chipotle Potato Cheese Gratin, some quesadillas, or my Vegetable Paella. Accompany with cocktails like Noches de Cartagena, whose heart of aguardiente will certainly bring some heat to the fiesta!
Next, try to prepare as much as you can ahead of time. The individual recipes contain suggestions for doing this. Advance preparation alleviates a lot of last-minute stressand helps you enjoy the fiesta, too! Once youve decided on your menu, you can create a shopping list and then systematically prep each item accordingly.
Also, you need to think about the mood of the party. Choose table settings, serving dishes and plates, flowers, and music to match the ambiente, or ambience, you want to create. Colorful tablecloths, along with candles, scattered petals or leaves, and central floral arrangements help to create a scene. Find fun umbrellas or stirrers for your cocktails. Select musicor live musical entertainmentthat reflects what you want your guests to feel. These little toques, or touches, contribute a great deal to the whole success of the party.
Heres my advice. Read through this book with an eye for exploration. Dont be afraid to try different recipe combinations. Find dishes that stimulate your imaginationand palate. Experiment by making them for your immediate family and friends before making them for a larger group. Once you start to feel comfortable with a dish, add your own touches to make it your own. Dont be afraid to delve into something newthats how we chefs have discovered some of our greatest successes!
When I think about what makes a party una fiesta latina, I think of things that make people feel welcome. The celebration should reach out to your guests and gently pull them in by sensually conveying comfort and warmth; it needs to make guests feel that they are where they should be at that point in time. When your guests are happy, and you are happy, youve succeeded. Qu disfruten! Enjoy!
Chapter 1
Appetizers / AREPAS AND OTRAS PASABOCAS
JUST AS IMPORTANT AS A FIRST IMPRESSION, APPETIZERS SET THE SCENE FOR YOUR FIESTA. VARIED, COLORFUL, AND delicious, your choice of pasabocas should excite you. This chapter contains a selection of several of my favorites, from sweet corn Arepas de Choclo, or Colombian corncakes, to the slightly smoky, sparky, and embracing Chipotle Potato Cheese Gratin. Read through them, find something that attracts you, and try it!
MAKES ABOUT 18 AREPAS AND 21/2 CUPS GUACAMOLE This combination of food tells the story of my life! Arepas, Colombian griddled Johnny cakes, were probably my first food. The manchego cheese, a Spanish cheese that adds depth to the arepas, represents my Mediterranean experience as a young man living and working in Europe. The guacamole, inspired by my visits to Mexico as well as by the influences of many of my current kitchen staff members, is a salsa that I now enjoy virtually every day. Together these ingredients combine to make one of my favorite cocktail appetizers. You can make the arepas ahead of time and then prepare the guacamole the morning of your party and saut the arepas just before serving them. Of course, youll want to let them cool just to room temperature before topping them with the guacamole.