Copyright 2009 by Susie Norris
Photographs copyright 2009 by Jennifer Martin
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Celestial Arts, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Celestial Arts and the Celestial Arts colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
: Chocolates courtesy of Mona Lisa Food Products, Hendersonville, NC.
: Chocolates courtesy of PCB Cration, Benfeld, France.
: Artisan gift box courtesy of Nashville Wraps, Nashville, TN.
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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Norris, Susie.
Chocolate bliss : sensuous recipes, spa treatments, and other divine indulgences / by Susie Norris.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
Summary: A celebration of all things chocolate: every type and flavor, its health and beauty benefits, origins and ecological influences, and tasting, gifting, and bakingProvided by publisher.
1. Cookery (Chocolate) 2. Chocolate. I. Title.
TX767.C5N666 2009
641.3374dc22
2009015592
eISBN: 978-0-307-79132-0
ISBN 978-1-58761-347-0
v3.1
dedication
To Barbara Epstein
contents
acknowledgments
I am grateful to these fine chocolate professionals, authors, and chefs who gave me access, information, and inspiration: Carole Bloom, Kristy Choo of Jin Patisserie, Joshua Needleman of Chocolate Springs Cafe, Ken Givich and Gary Guittard of Guittard Chocolate Company, Elaine Gonzalez, Clay Gordon of The Chocolate Life, Stephan Iten of Felchlin Chocolate, Andre Krump of TasteTV, Maribel Leiberman of Marie Belle, Tony Lydgate of Steelgrass Farm, Ray Major of Artisan Confections, Katrina Markoff of Vosges-Haut Chocolat, Derek Pho, Eric Martinet, and Laurent Pages of Barry Callebaut, Alice Medrich, Alexander Morozoff of Cocoaroma magazine, Nathan Sato of Malie Kai Chocolates, Michael Schneider of Dessert Professional magazine, the late Robert Steinberg of Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, Michael Recchiuti of Recchiuti Confections, Marilyn Tausend of Culinary Adventures, Inc., and Jacques Torres of Chocolate Haven. My thanks to all of you and to the hundreds of artisan chocolatiers who keep our business so dynamic. Thanks also to the students, chef/instructors, and staff of California School of Culinary Arts, particularly Chef Joshua Orlando and Chef Norma Salazar.
I am also grateful to my agent, Betsy Amster, for her insightful work and wisdom on this project. Ten Speed Press and Celestial Arts provided many guiding lights: extraordinary editor Lisa Westmoreland, acquirer Lorena Jones, designer Betsy Stromberg, photographer Jennifer Martin, food stylist Julie Smith, and props stylist Theresa McNulty. Thank you all for your professionalism and creativity.
Friends and family provided the joie de vivre necessary for this job. My father-in-law Jason Epstein (author, editor, and entrepreneur) brought the exuberant cookbook author Maida Heatter to my house for dinner, and she brought along a box of Palm Beach Brownies. This trio (editor, author, brownie) inspired my professional pursuit of the pastry arts, for which I am indeed grateful. Contributions from my three childrenSam, Natalie, and Thomasas well as those by my dessert-tasting and chocolate-loving friends, are everywhere. Thanks to my mom and dad for passing along the journalistic spirit, and to the sister/writers in my family, Frances Norris and Helen Epstein, for their knowing encouragement. Deepest thanks to my husband, Jacob Epstein, for the years he has served as my writing coach and finest friend.
Chocolateelixir made from the fruit of the cacao tree (pronounced ka-KOW) known by its scientific name Theobroma cacao or food of the gods.
introduction
I am a pastry chef, chocolatier, culinary school teacher, and Snickers Bar sneaker. My never-ending adoration of chocolate leads me to many cultures and to many fellow enthusiasts. I offer this book in celebration of all the ways chocolatepart health food, part soul foodbrings us bliss.
Chocolate is more than a fruit, more than a candy, more than a drink, more than a sweet dessert. It is the third largest commodity on the global exchange after sugar and coffee, commanding over $40 billion in annual trading revenues. Fifty million people worldwide work hard to bring cacao plants to fruition and the fruit to our hands. Chocolate generates an estimated $80 billion per year for international companies such as Cargill, Nestl, Hersheys, Cadbury, and Mars. Its production has sustained the economies of Indonesia, Brazil, Venezuela, and numerous African nations. In addition to its commercial strength, chocolates history is full of drama. It nourished Mayan warriors, enriched Aztec kings, infuriated Spanish priests, enslaved the downtrodden, puzzled doctors, scandalized ladies, delighted soldiers, charmed children, and spawned huge corporate empires. Its power is miraculous; it is truly the food of the gods.
The recipes in this book celebrate chocolates flavors, history, and global appeal. They include traditional desserts, cakes, and candies, a few savory dishes, and some ideal approaches for the health-conscious chocolate lover. Well explore chocolates potential in the fight against deforestation and global warming and the many traditions for giving chocolate as a gift. Well see why giving the dark food of the gods brings such brightness to the world.
a word about techniques and tools
If you can make a batch of chocolate chip cookies, you can make any recipe in this book. Baking and working with chocolate are not hard, just specific. Like most pastry chefs, my background comes from the French ptisserie tradition, which involves formal procedures, formulas, and many French terms. The recipes here are designed to bring some classic French techniques and a little fun to the home baker. Here are a few terms, tricks, and tools Ill be using.
Bonbons. Candy has many names: confections, pralines, sweets, chocolates, and, my favorite, bonbons. Translated from the French, it means good goods, which always strikes me as the perfect name for chocolate candy.
Butter. European-style butter (such as Plugra) has a higher fat content than Americas standard. Fat conducts flavor over the palate, so in this case, fat is good. Although the recipes in this book will work with American-style butter, I recommend using unsalted, European style, preferably from a dairy in your state.