Anthony Haywood - Lonely Planet The Trans-Siberian Railway

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Endless taiga, crackling or snow-dusted steppe, mountains, the Gobi Desert and the Great Wall the Trans-Siberian routes across Asia unite landscapes and experiences into the journey of a lifetime.

Trans-Siberian journey through autumnal Russian landscapes
WOLFGANG KAEHLER / CORBIS

We often talk about the Trans-Siberian as a single railway or even as the express. Perhaps it was closest to being the Trans-Siberian at the turn of the 20th century, when this engineering feat was celebrated in a grand opening. In reality, it is several different routes and experiences. And as for express well, it was never that, not this magnificently slow track of the camel.

Russia. Mongolia. China. Three countries, and plenty of opportunities to alight and explore any or all of them during stopovers. Regardless of which route or routes you choose, its a magnificently rewarding experience of changing landscapes and cultures, people, and of life on the rails.

Today, the track from Russias capital to Vladivostok is the classic Trans-Siberian route. It offers the chance to explore Russias regions, and after completing its length, youll have a lasting insight into its people. Involving a six-day nonstop journey, this route is a rite of passage through the taiga-bristled soul of Russia.

The Trans-Mongolian, taking you through Russia, China and Mongolia, is a different experience altogether. Complete this trip nonstop, as is frequently done, and the experience of travelling on the Chinese trains K3 from Bijng or K4 from Moscow might strike you as a cross between a high-rolling party and a geographical expedition conducted from inside a train carriage. Make stopovers and catch short-hop trains, however, and the route offers the chance to explore deeply three very different countries and cultures.

The Trans-Manchurian is an eclectic and unusual route, traversing much of Siberia and veering south into the grasslands of Inner Mongolia and into Manchuria on the flagship Vostok. This is a Russian train staffed by Russians who, incidentally, are among the most personable staff you will find anywhere on the worlds rails. A highlight of this route is the Manchurian town of Hrbn (Harbin).

House facade in historic Tobolsk ()
MARTIN MOOS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

And then theres the Baikal-Amur Mainline (Baikalo-Amurskaya Magistral; BAM). The most recent of the great Russian rail projects so far completed, it was hailed as the Hero Project of the Century and may one day form part of a rail link across the Bering Strait. If you like railways, youll love the BAM: tunnels, mountains, limitless taiga, and the beauty of train travel itself, made simply for the sake of a journey.

Moscows Kremlin & Red Square

This ancient fortress () is the founding site of Moscow and the ultimate symbol of political power in Russia. Within its ancient walls you can admire the artistry of Russias greatest icon painters, gawk at the treasure trove that fuelled a revolution, shed a tear for Russias great and tragic rulers, and climb the tower for an amazing panorama. Flanking the northeastern wall of the Kremlin, Red Square is dominated by bold towers and the colourful domes of St Basils Cathedral.

JONATHAN SMITH / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Life in the Caravanserai

Daylight gradually fades, electric light illuminates the carriage, and windows turn opaque and reflect life on board. Russias vast distances make it one of the best places in the world for train travel. The experience is often about the company of strangers, and making your carriage or compartment a home away from home. Perhaps its in a four-berth compartment across Siberia on Russias track of the camel, or perhaps hurtling through a night in 3rd class to the snores, silences and groans of more than 50 fellow travellers.

RICHARD IANSON / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Bijng by Bike

In order to get under the skin of Bijng (), hire a bike and cycle like mad all over the city. Navigate twists and turns, thread through alleys, down boulevards and around landscaped parks, and the city will reveal itself as a fascinating mosaic of charming old htng (narrow alleyway) neighbourhoods and 21st-century architectural wonders. Biking Bijng puts you at ground level with the locals, and there is a tangible sense of camaraderie as you pull up to an intersection and push off together as if in a massive bike rally.

PETER SOLNESS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Russias Sacred Sea

According to the Siberian writer Valentin Rasputin, European Russians who first stumbled upon this sea lacked a language to describe it. Later, the exiled Old Believer Avakuum discovered a bountiful paradise where all was larger than life: mountains and rocky gates that rose into the heavens, and pure waters brimming with fish. Lake Baikal () and bears. Watch out for those bears!

JANE SWEENEY / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Mongolian Landscapes

Mongolia is a beautiful country. Get into a Russian 4WD or van and your Mongolian travel mates will be crooning about the blue waters of Lake Khvsgl, the singing sand dunes of the Gobi Desert and the glaciated peaks of the Altai Mountains. Closer to Ulaanbaatar, its easy to make day or overnight trips to Gorkhi-Terelj National Park (), where wild takhi horses roam across the pristine grasslands of central Mongolia.

TIM MAKINS / LONELY PLANET IMAGES

Stations & Stopovers

The glue between the interior world of the train and the towns and cities along the track is the myriad stations. Some are little more than a ramshackle platform with a telltale name such as 73km to signify their existence; others are ambitious pieces of architecture befitting one of the worlds greatest railway achievements. All along the route at Russias stations, sellers ply a busy trade smoked fish, berries, nuts, sausages, anything that will still a travellers hunger or make a journey more comfortable.