Camille Glenn - Camille Glenns Old-Fashioned Christmas Cookbook

ALSO BY CAMILLE GLENN

THE HERITAGE OF SOUTHERN COOKING

A SPECIAL COLLECTION OF SALADS, SOUPS AND STEWS

THE FINE ART OF DELECTABLE DESSERTS

Algonquin Books of Chapel Hill

Published by

ALGONQUIN BOOKS OF CHAPEL HILL

Post Office Box 2225

Chapel Hill, North Carolina 27515-2225

a division of
WORKMAN PUBLISHING

708 Broadway

New York, New York 10003

1996 by Camille Glenn and Elissa Glenn.

All rights reserved.

First e-book edition, September 2012.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available for a previous edition of this work.

E-book ISBN 978-1-61620-225-5

To Suzanne Rafer, Ruth Chaffins,

Barbara Winter, and Ruth Bos,

without whose loyalty and help this book

never could have gone to press.

The art of cooking is a universal feature of civilized and cultural life, and we must do our best to preserve it.

Camille Glenn

French Bread

Coffee

Celery Curls, Carrot Sticks, Pickles

Coffee

French Bread

Coffee

Champagne, Chilled White Wine, or Red Wine

Raw Vegetables with Spicy Dipping Salt

Smithfield Ham and Potato Pie

Demitasse

Champagne, Chilled White Wine, or Red Wine

Demitasse

Champagne or Chilled White Wine

Italian Bread

Demitasse

Fruit Juice

Broiled Bacon or Sausage

Black Bing Cherry Preserves

Coffee, Tea

Poached Eggs

Fruit in Season

Coffee

Champagne

Caviar on Toast Points

Demitasse

Champagne, Chilled White Wine, or Red Wine

Demitasse

Champagne, Chilled White Wine, or Red Wine

Buttered Broccoli

Mashed Potatoes

Coffee

Champagne

Olives

Beluga Caviar

Shrimp

Demitasse

Coffee

Tea

Chilled White Wine

Rosemary Buns or French Baguettes

Coffee

Champagne, Chilled White Wine

Bibb Lettuce Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette Dressing

French Bread

Coffee

Champagne, Chilled White Wine, or Red Wine

French Bread

Coffee

Champagne, Chilled White Wine, or Red Wine

Demitasse

Champagne

Caviar

French Bread

Celery Curls, Black and Green Olives, Carrot Sticks

Coffee

At my age, many of my closest friends and loved ones have gone on before me, but I wish to thank those who are still with me for their encouragement and thoughtfulness to me through the years: Allie Carr, Mary Drummond, Col. and Mrs. Henry G. Hamby, Orton Hamby, Jan Applegate, Dr. Forrest and Mary Julia Kuhn, Dr. Lynn Speevac and staff, Dr. A. Franklin White, Molly Johnson, Mark and Betty Senter, Mr. and Mrs. Tom Baker, Mike Kephart, Deborah Ford, Tony Lindauer, Dee Rushing, Peggy Harvin, Richard Grausman, Harriet Robbins, Catherine Greenwell, Ruth Murphy, Sandy Pike, Larry and Connie Brodt, Peter Workman, Don and Ruth Miller, Joe and Kathleen Castro, Elaine Buckley, Mary Walter, Judy Chapman, Kay Gill, Jack Kersey, Dr. Charles Gruenberger, Bob Smith, Bob and Margaret Kulp, Mark and Susie Stevens, Vivian Beard, Betty Taylor, Sarah Fritschner, Wade Hall, Mr. and Mrs. Steve Tipton, Bill and Jane Woolsey, Dr. Edward and Gloria Shrader, Dan Maye, Dr. Clinton Cook, Philip Cooke, Will and Kathy Cary, Carol Greene, Mrs. C. K. McClure, Scott and Robin Hansel, Pat Cross, Alice Colombo, Dr. William Peak and Patsie, Cindy Inskeep, Arlene Jacobsen, Memsy Price, Dr. Mark and Hedvika Heinicke, and Bob Holmes.

And most of all, I wish to thank my children, Camille G. Perry and Elissa Glenn.

I was born when the twentieth century was nine years old, going on ten, just in time for the Christmas baking and preserving to get under way. Naturally I do not remember that first Christmas, but it was my introduction to a world perfumed with cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and allspice simmering in kettles of mincemeat and other sweet things for the holidays. I did not choose my fate, but I must have loved it because I have been in the midst of it ever since, without the slightest wish to escape.

I believe there is a certain depth and beauty in a home, no matter how humble, when there is grace and love in a kitchen that is alive with the warmth of good things cooking for our families and friends to eat.

To wait for the luxuriesor to postpone quiet pleasures that are at hand, in the race that is propelled by fashionis to miss a part of life that is meaningful.

When the summer visitors had gone, our little town was very quiet in the winter, even at Christmas, except for the jingle of bells, the decorating of Christmas trees, and the secret but silent competition in the kitchens over who baked the best cakes, candies, and holiday pies in town! Such covert action seems strange to us nowthat such a commotion would be made over such simple thingsbut the holiday treats could not be bought in those days and, anyway, they were the homemakers creative outlet.

I have never failed to believe that good food is life-enhancing. The menus for our Christmas celebrations, to be successful, must be in keeping with the season and in harmony with the occasion. The flavors must blend in counterpoint, just as in music. Then and only then can we be assured that, as Henri Faugeron (the Parisian restaurateur) said, In cooking, as in every human endeavor, all can be art.

So, to his majesty the suckling pig, to the Southern country ham that has no superior, to the turkey and all the trimmings, the winter vegetables, the bourbon-scented cakes of old, and the pies and gingerbreadwe salute you, with gratefulness in our hearts and a Merry Christmas to all!

Christmas is such a special time to the entire Christian world, it seems fitting to me to refresh our memories and our thoughts concerning the depth of meaning that has sustained the commemoration of this holiday.

The heritage of Christmas goes back to the most ancient of times, but from its inception it has been an ambivalent mixture of religion and festivities. The first celebrations of the Christian faith were based upon the drama of the pagan worship of the sun, the winter solstice it was calledthe deep dark of night that gave way to the glimmer of light that came with the dawn. It is difficult for us to imagine the depth of darkness in the world before candles, whale oil or kerosene lamps, and, later, electricity. The return of the sun was the only light for these people.