THe vegan
SCOOP
150 Recipes for DAIRY-FREE ICE CREAM
That Tastes Better Than the Real Thing WHEELER DEL TORRO
Founder and Owner of
Wheelers Frozen Dessert CompanyContents
* A complete list of the recipes featured in this book can be found on .
Preface
MY ICE CREAM DREAMS began at seventeen. Fresh out of high school and without a plan, I was in desperate need of something to do for the summer. At the time, I was dating a Parisian model named Max. She lived in New York City, but was moving back to France. She invited me to come with her and hang out for the summer.
Why not?, I thought. I could stay until August and then head off to college. Perfect. For the first month, Max and I lived with her family in the south of France. Maxs grandmother Estee did most of the cooking. She was an amazing cook.
The trouble was, however, that Estee made a hobby out of scrutinizing my every move. She would watch me out of the corner of her eye, arms crossed, a scowl on her face. Despite her behavior (or maybe because of it), I started hanging out more in the kitchen, asking to set the table, stir a pot, chop an onion. Eventually, this little old woman relented and started showing me the secrets behind some of the most amazing foods I had ever tasted. For the rest of the summer, I learned how to make delicious soups, main courses, and desserts. After a month living in the south, Max and I moved to Paris, where I spent my days seeing movies and plays, visiting museums, exploring, and above all else, visiting Berthillon, one of the great ice cream shops in the city.
Sometimes I would wait for hours just to get a single-scoop cone. I could only imagine how much money the shop made. Max would come with me when she wasnt working, but she didnt eat the ice cream because she was lactose-intolerant and would complain about its high price, insisting that her grandmother could make it better. This girl is crazy, I thought. Estee was good, but who could make ice cream better than Berthillon?
A SIMPLE REQUEST
One day, I mustered up some courage and marched into Berthillon with one request: Would the ice cream makers teach me their trade? No, they swiftly responded. No. No. No. No.
Dejected, I went back to Estee. Why not see whether there was any merit to Maxs words? One bite of Estees ice cream cake and I was sold. Maxs eighty-year-old grandmother did, indeed, make better ice cream than any shop I had visited. I asked Estee to teach me, and to join me in opening a shop somewhere in Nice or Paris. She said she was too old, but pushed me to do it on my own. After a few months of flavor experimentation, trying different types of chocolates, fruits, and other ingredients, I moved my focus to milksalmond, rice, coconut, and others.
I would try anything to get the perfect texture and consistency, and my determination was starting to pay offpeople were loving what I created. With Estees quality-approval and blessing, I hosted my first party to showcase my frozen treats. The evening was an absolute success: I received rave reviews and even landed a few catering jobs.
A SCOOP OF CULINARY INNOVATION
I was thrilled my success was growing, but increasingly frustrated that Max couldnt partake in the ice cream revelry. There had to be some way I could make my desserts healthier and completely dairy-free, I thought. My mission was born.
I began testing and creating soy-based ice creams, which were, by default, healthier, lower in calories, and lactose-free. As I continued to experiment, I found that people loved both the interesting flavorsKool-Aid, Peanut Butter and Jelly, Curry and Figand that they were healthier than regular ice cream. My experiments were a hit with Max, and the rest of her model friends too. But the best part? People couldnt tell that their dessert was dairy-free. Despite the success of my new soy-based ice cream, I knew I should at least have a back-up plan (i.e., a college degree) if my ice-cream dreams didnt pan out.
PHILADELPHIA CALLING
After my summer in Pariswhich lasted two yearsI enrolled at Temple University in Philadelphia and started looking for a job to pay for it all.
PHILADELPHIA CALLING
After my summer in Pariswhich lasted two yearsI enrolled at Temple University in Philadelphia and started looking for a job to pay for it all.
Every restaurant I went, I was told that I could wash dishes. But I didnt want to be a dishwasher; I wanted to make desserts. During that time, I began hanging around Piggys, a popular barbecue restaurant in the city. One night at Piggys, a huge commotion erupted in the kitchen, then spilled out into the dining room. There stood the owner and the cook, calling each other colorful names. And just like that, a position was opened and the owner needed to fill itfast! Can anyone here cook? he growled, frantically looking around the dining room.
I saw an opportunity. I can, I replied eagerly. He waved me forward, as if I had volunteered to sacrifice myself. Others looked on with compassion. What did I sign up for? Unfortunately, the restaurant changed hands soon thereafter and I was let go. But as luck would have it, I was offered a job as personal chef to one of Piggys regular customershe loved the ice creams and waffles I had added to the menu and wanted them in his own home.
Now, this was the guy who would eat at a corner table by himself, who people always exhibited caution with when speaking to or walking by. It all made me a bit nervous, but the money was too good to refuse.
THE NEW BOSS
Mr. De Leon was a 6 foot, 5 inch (196 cm), 387-pound (176-kg) chain smoker who went through two packs of cigarettes a day and loved to eat. All he wanted was meat90 percent of his diet was meat. He owned a nightclub and wanted his meals ready when he got home from work (pretty much any hour of the day).
My schedule was easy; Mr. De Leon would usually come home around the time I was getting ready for my first class of the day. Primarily, I would grillsteak, ribs, rabbit, venison, pork chops, and ham. He didnt want anything fancy. Every now and then, hed request corn or mashed potatoes or some other side dish, but usually it was just meat and bread. And of course, dessert (ice cream being his favorite).
One day, Mr. De Leon began complaining of chest pains. I threatened to quit if he didnt go to the doctor. After several tests, he was diagnosed with high cholesterol and given a complete list of ailments that could develop (if they werent developing already) as a result of his excessive weight and unhealthy lifestyle.
A NEW DIET FOR THE NEW BOSS
The doctor suggested a diet overhaul, which included cutting out some meat and eating more vegetables. I reassured Mr.
De Leon that I would make any changes he needed and keep the food tasting just as great. Then I suggested he become vegan. He didnt know what that was. I carefully explained the terms vegetarian and vegan to him. Mr. De Leon laughed, saying that if he cut meat and dairy from his diet, he would die anyway.
He had a million excuses. I decided to end the discussion. I knew that Mr. De Leon was a competitive man by nature and would never back down from a challenge. Ill do it too, I said. Lets see which one of us can last longer as a vegan.