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Thomas Booth - The Cook Islands. Rarotonga, Aitutaki & Beyond

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The Cook Islands, named after the British Captain who seems to have been everywhere in the Pacific, are scattered like tiny jewels over a large stretch of sea between Tahiti and Samoa. Rarotonga, the principal island, is 2,500 miles due south of Honolulu - as far south of the equator as Honolulu is north of it - a similarity that provides both places with ideal climates. But thats as far as the similarity goes, for in spite of her recently built international airport, the Cooks remain off the beaten path. Even Avarua, the port, capital, and mecca to these 15 islands, is little concerned with tourists. Here there are no buildings taller than the highest palm, no traffic lights, and the people who speak English with a New Zealand accent are friendly and dont regard visitors as walking money. All amenities, all reasonable comforts are available, and everything seems to work. You can drink the water, eat the vegetables, be addressed in English, theres no tipping, and happily...

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INTRODUCTION

Most atlases concentrate on the large land masses around the Pacific Rim and give short shrift to the thousands of islands scattered across the Pacific. Only the mounted globe on its pedestal gives a clear impression of the enormous size of this area. Even then you've got to have sharp eyes and a good light to find the Cooks, Tonga, Vanuatu, and the Solomons, to say nothing of Kapingamarangi, Mauke, Funafuti, or the Trobriands.

There are, of course, such well-known tourist destinations as Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji, and perhaps New Caledonia. Most of the other islands, if their names are known at all, are seen as virtually inaccessible to all but the most dedicated adventurer. Even the most experienced independent travelers interested in the rich variety of island cultures have been a little skeptical about setting out for the Solomons, Micronesia, Tonga, or Papua New Guinea.

But this is changing, and we hope this book makes it clear that the islands of the Pacific - Polynesia, Melanesia, and Micronesia - are comfortably accessible. Major airlines go to the administrative centers of nearly all these groups and, once there, domestic sea and air services open up the most remote outer areas.

Facilities range from acceptable to excellent, people are friendly, English is widely spoken and, other than malaria in parts of Melanesia (preventable by prophylactic medication), there are few health problems. Happily too, the US dollar remains reasonably strong against most island currencies and, except for French Polynesia or perhaps New Caledonia, there are surprising travel bargains in the Pacific.

The US dollar is the most easily converted currency in the world, whether in cash or traveler's check. And you'll be surprised at how many places off the beaten path will quickly accept credit cards. In reporting prices, we consider the current exchange rate and quote costs in US dollars.

Getting There By Sea - There is nothing quite like standing on the deck of a - photo 1

Getting There

By Sea - There is nothing quite like standing on the deck of a ship watching your first Pacific island change from a smudge on the horizon to solid reality. Unfortunately, if cruise ships aren't for you, you'll find that getting passage on a freighter is difficult. Most freight lines would rather load on a few more containers and forget about passengers. The only ships which may still carry passengers into the further reaches of the Pacific are a few French cargo vessels that call at East Coast US ports before heading for the South Pacific via Panama. To find a freighter, a good source is Freighter World Cruises Inc. Their US phone is 626-449-3106 They can also assist in arranging passage on the splendid Aranui, the ship that sails from Papeete to the Tuamotus and Marquesas. From Japan, Carolineship and Tiger Lines go into Micronesia (see the chapter on Micronesia).

There are travel agencies specializing in this sort of sea venture. Try: Pearl's Freighter Tips, 175 Great Neck Rd., Suite 306F, Great Neck, NY 11021. On the West Coast try: Maggi Horn, 601 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94108.

Then of course there are berths on private yachts and, judging from the number of yachts seen all over the Pacific, a chance to crew is a possibility. You've got to have plenty of time, though, and a modicum of experience to become a shareexpense crew member. To further this possibility, read the "classifieds" in yachting magazines, and visit the big yacht clubs on the West Coast - particularly in Hawaii.

By Air - First do some homework on the places you want to go, then choose a travel agent not preoccupied with cruises and collective touring. Find someone patient and tolerant enough to get the best deals on Advance Purchase Tickets, Circle Pacific Tickets (which allow multiple stopovers) or Seasonal Round Trip Economy Fares. A good agent can do all this, plus take advantage of current airline price wars, and can help you with such technical questions as minimum stopover clauses and bargain seats that are rarely available.

Consider starting from Hawaii. Get the first scent of the tropics in Honolulu. Prepare yourself for the deep Pacific by visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center and the Bishop Museum. Then, because Hawaii is the "Gateway to the Pacific;' check out the travel options from there.

In Hawaii if you go to Hawaiian Airlines with Tonga and both Samoas in mind, or visit Continental's Air Micronesia for travel to Micronesia, you may pick up the low fare tickets that returning islanders get.

For other destinations, and especially for complicated multiple-stopovers, a well-chosen travel agent at home is best.

World War II and the Navy ship USS Acontius first brought me to the Pacific islands. It was, however, not a time of sloth, languid days at sea, or idly wandering the beaches. But I saw my first coconut palm then, I saw islanders with bones in their noses, and reefs with water clear as gin. It was heady stuff and I was profoundly affected.

Since then Virginia and I have been back 10 times and I'm still deeply affected. I'm a little more discriminating though and some islands, like human beings, are more appealing than others. Still they're all old friends, and we'd like to make some of them yours.


THE COOK ISLANDS The Cook Islands named after the British Captain who seems to - photo 2

THE COOK ISLANDS

The Cook Islands, named after the British Captain who seems to have been everywhere in the Pacific - even up the Oregon Coast where we live - are scattered like tiny jewels over a large stretch of sea between Tahiti and Samoa. Rarotonga, the principal island, is 2,500 miles due south of Honolulu - as far south of the equator as Honolulu is north of it - a similarity that provides both places with ideal climates. But that's as far as the similarity goes, for in spite of her recently built international airport, the Cooks remain off the beaten path. Even Avarua, the port, capital, and mecca to these 15 islands, is little concerned with tourists.

Captain Cook There are no buildings taller than the highest palm no traffic - photo 3

Captain Cook

There are no buildings taller than the highest palm, no traffic lights, and the people who speak English with a New Zealand accent are friendly and don't regard visitors as walking money. All amenities, all reasonable comforts are available, and everything seems to work.' You can drink the water, eat the vegetables, be addressed in English, there's no tipping, and happily for Americans the US dollar goes a fairly long way.

The natural beauty, particularly on Rarotonga with its forest-covered mountains, verdant coastal plain, and fringing reef, is profound. It'll take your breath away when first seen and some writers, with complimentary comparison in mind, insist that Rarotonga is a miniature English-speaking Tahiti.

The population of these islands comes to a mere 18,000. On some of them there are 50 people, on others 700, a few are uninhabited, and, until recently, another had a population of just one. On Rarotonga, the largest island, there are 9,300 people. This independent nation may be small in number, but it is large in area.

Classified politically, the Cooks are called a Self-Governing Free Associated State, which means that the mother country, New Zealand in their case, picks up most of the bills. New Zealand has built the airport, the hospitals, fixed up the roads, the sewers, takes care of all defense, provides at least half of the budget, and has made all Cook Islanders full citizens of New Zealand.

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