Thomas Booth - Fiji Travel Adventures

Thomas H. Booth

Hunter Publishing, Inc.

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Most atlases concentrate on the large land masses around the Pacific Rim and give short shrift to the thousands of islands scattered across the Pacific. Only the mounted globe on its pedestal gives a clear impression of the enormous size of this area. Even then you've got to have sharp eyes and a good light to find Samoa, the Cooks, Tonga, Vanuatu, and the Solomons, to say nothing of Kapingamarangi, Mauke, Funafuti, or the Trobriands.

There are, of course, such well-known tourist destinations as Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji, and perhaps New Caledonia. Most of the other islands, if their names are known at all, are seen as virtually inaccessible to all but the most dedicated adventurer. Even the most experienced independent travelers interested in the rich variety of island cultures have been a little skeptical about setting out for the Solomons, Micronesia, Tonga, or Papua New Guinea.

But this is changing, and we hope this book makes it clear that the islands of the Pacific including Fiji are comfortably accessible. Major airlines go to the administrative centers of nearly all the island groups and, once there, domestic sea and air services open up the most remote outer areas.

Facilities range from acceptable to excellent, people are friendly, English is widely spoken and, other than malaria in parts of Melanesia (preventable by prophylactic medication), there are few health problems. Happily too, the US dollar remains reasonably strong against most island currencies and, except for French Polynesia or perhaps New Caledonia, there are surprising travel bargains in the Pacific.

The US dollar is the most easily converted currency in the world, whether in cash or traveler's check. And you'll be surprised at how many places off the beaten path will quickly accept credit cards. In reporting prices, we consider the current exchange rate and quote costs in US dollars.

By Sea There is nothing quite like standing on the deck of a ship watching your first Pacific island change from a smudge on the horizon to solid reality. Unfortunately, if cruise ships aren't for you, you'll find that getting passage on a freighter is difficult. Most freight lines would rather load on a few more containers and forget about passengers. The only ships which may still carry passengers into the further reaches of the Pacific are a few French cargo vessels that call at East Coast US ports before heading for the South Pacific via Panama. To find a freighter, a good source is Freighter World Cruises Inc. Their US phone is 626-449-3106 They can also assist in arranging passage on the splendid Aranui, the ship that sails from Papeete to the Tuamotus and Marquesas. From Japan, Carolineship and Tiger Lines go into Micronesia.

There are travel agencies specializing in this sort of sea venture. Try: Pearl's Freighter Tips, 175 Great Neck Rd., Suite 306F, Great Neck, NY 11021. On the West Coast try: Maggi Horn, 601 California Street, San Francisco, CA 94108.

Then of course there are berths on private yachts and, judging from the number of yachts seen all over the Pacific, a chance to crew is a possibility. You've got to have plenty of time, though, and a modicum of experience to become a share-expense crew member. To further this possibility, read the "classifieds" in yachting magazines, and visit the big yacht clubs on the West Coast particularly in Hawaii.

By Air First do some homework on the places you want to go, then choose a travel agent not preoccupied with cruises and collective touring. Find someone patient and tolerant enough to get the best deals on Advance Purchase Tickets, Circle Pacific Tickets (which allow multiple stopovers) or Seasonal Round Trip Economy Fares. A good agent can do all this, plus take advantage of current airline price wars, and can help you with such technical questions as minimum stopover clauses and bargain seats that are rarely available.

Consider starting from Hawaii. Get the first scent of the tropics in Honolulu. Prepare yourself for the deep Pacific by visiting the Polynesian Cultural Center and the Bishop Museum. Then, because Hawaii is the "Gateway to the Pacific," check out the travel options from there.

In Hawaii if you go to Hawaiian Airlines with Tonga and both Samoas in mind, or visit Continental's Air Micronesia for travel to Micronesia, you may pick up the low fare tickets that returning islanders get.

Air Pacific (www.airpacific.com) flies from Los Angeles to Fiji. Others are Qantas (www.qantas.com) and Air New Zealand (www.airnewzealand.com).

For other destinations, and especially for complicated multiple-stopovers, a well-chosen travel agent at home is best.

World War II and the Navy ship USS Acontius first brought me to the Pacific islands. It was, however, not a time of sloth, languid days at sea, or idly wandering the beaches. But I saw my first coconut palm then, I saw islanders with bones in their noses, and reefs with water clear as gin. It was heady stuff and I was profoundly affected.

Since then Virginia and I have been back a dozen times and I'm still deeply affected. I'm a little more discriminating though and some islands, like human beings, are more appealing than others. Still they're all old friends, and we'd like to make some of them yours.

Fiji has the required qualities among them, space and lots of it. Viti Levu, the big island where Suva and Nadi are, has 4,000 square miles. Vanua Levu, the next island in size, has 2,000 square miles. And then there are the smaller ones Ovalau, Taveuni, Koro, Kandavu, Bau, the Lau group and hundreds of other tiny dots of land.

The people, 700,000 of them, are varied too. There are native Fijians, Polynesians, Indians, Chinese and a fair sprinkling of expatriate Australians, New Zealanders, English, and Ameri cans. Some of them like me require a city, perhaps not to live in but at least available. Suva is such a place. It's small, in places it's tatty and hodge-podge, but it fits my specifications. When you're hungry, the best Indian and Chinese food in the Pacific is available. Mexican, Indonesian, and Italian food can be found too, or you can dine in splendor at a wide range of stylish restaurants. When you're thirsty you can drink in an English or Australian pub, and when you feel poorly, good medical and dental care is available.

For housing, something like $75,000 will provide you with a nice home in Suva, or you can live in the country-club environment of Pacific Harbor, 35 miles away. The University of the Pacific provides cultural resources if you want them and, because Fiji is such a Pacific crossroads, flights leave daily for Australia, New Zealand, Hawaii, Europe, and the Far East.