Taylor - The fearless frying cookbook

NO BROILED FOOD

on the menu of the
Edisto Motel Restaurant,
Jacksonboro, South Carolina

THE FEARLESS FRYING COOKBOOK

BY HOPPIN JOHN MARTIN TAYLOR

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER ALSBERG

WORKMAN PUBLISHING, NEW YORK

Copyright 1997 by John Martin Taylor
Book illustrations copyright 1997 by Peter Alsberg

All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced mechanically, electronically, or by any other means, including photocopying-without written permission of the publisher. Published simultaneously in Canada by Thomas Allen & Son Limited.

The words Hoppin Johns is a registered trademark of John Martin Taylor.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is available

eISBN 9780761172000

Cover design by Paul Gamarello
Book design by Paul Gamarello with Barbara Balch
Author photograph by Anthony Lowe
Food photographs by Louis Wallach

Workman books are available at special discounts when purchased in bulk for premiums and sales promotions as well as for fundraising or educational use. Special editions or book excerpts can be created to specification. For details, contact the Special Sales Director at the address below.

Workman Publishing Company, Inc.
225 Varick Street
New York, NY 10014
www.workman.com

FOR ZELMA
AND
LANIER HICKMAN
AND
DORIS COOK

I am indebted to many people who lent their support and wisdom during the writing of this book. Foremost, to Mikel Herrington and my sister Sue Highfield and to my dear friend Debbie Marlowe.

Thanks also to Carolan Workman who waited for me to finish other projects before beginning this one, to my agent Doe Coover, and to my editor at Workman, Suzanne Rafer. Also at Workman, Id like to thank the following: Kathie Ness, Carrie Schoen, and Emily Nolan, in the editorial department; designers Paul Gamarello and Barbara Balch; publicist Deborah DeLosa; and marketing manager Andrea Glickson.

Thanks to Fran McCullough for her continued support and understanding as well as some great recipes.

This book is the result of the kindness and generosity of many great fry cooks. Many of these recipes are my versions of recipes that have appeared elsewhere in print. I am indebted to the writerssome of them accomplished chefs as wellMadeline Kamman, Nancie McDermott, Mardee Regan, Zarela Martinez, Jasper White, Nicole Routhier, Jessica Harris, Karen Hess, Steve Raichlen, Jeff Steingarten, Mark Miller (and his assistant Leland Atkinson), Stephan Pyles (and his assistant Kellye Milner), Carol Field, Bruce Aidells, John Egerton, Nick Malgieri, George Germon and Johanne Killeen, Marion Cunningham, Rose Levy Beranbaum, Lucy Seligman, Paula Wolfert, Elisabeth Luard, Barbara Kafka, Virginia Elverson, Shirley Corriher, Bharti Kirchner, Jeanne Voltz, and the late Richard Sax.

Chefs Jimmy Sneed, Frank Stitt, KimAnh Huebner, Philip Bardin, JoAnn Yaeger, Chris Hastings, Jamie Shannon, Scott Fales, Michael McNally, and Rob Enniss are all masters of the frying pan and have been helpful, as have restaurateurs JoAnn Clevenger and Celia Cerasoli. Celias mother, Tina (Mommy), showed me how to make her inimitable sfingi in my minuscule kitchen, then she and Arnold (Daddy) proofread a recipe that they had never before seen written. Celias chef Donna Gustafson checked the recipe to make sure I had it right. And Donna Florio and Robert Barbato, two more fine Italian cooks from Charleston, continue to offer their recipes and friendship. In Apulia, everyone in the small walled village of Acaya opened their doors to this stranger, as did Tina and Marcello Lagrua at Trattoria Casareccia in Lecce.

Jan Newberry of Tauntons Fine Cooking magazine early on recognized the importance of this project and hired me to write about frying; some information has appeared there in a somewhat different version.

None of this would have happened if it werent for the perfect fried fish at the Edisto Motel Restaurant in Jacksonboro, South Carolina. Thanks to Zelma, Lanier, and Michael Hickman, Doris Cook, and all the gang there.

George and Cecilia Holland continue to provide me with the wonderful corn products that make frying so much tastier, and my friends at Crosbys Seafood never scrimp on quality or service. Any time I need fresh lard, I can rely on Frank Marvin in Hollywood, South Carolina. Jack and Andrea Limehouse managed to find the most beautiful produce even when California was flooded. Having these kind and reliable suppliers has made testing recipes a much more enjoyable process.

And last but not least, special thanks to Roy Finamore, Bessie Hanahan, Lucille Grant, Scot Hinson, Marion Sams, Bruce Love and the B-52s.

INTRODUCTION
GOOD FRIED FOOD

CHAPTER 1
GETTING STARTED

The basic techniques of deep-frying, pan-frying, sauting, and stir-frying explained. Plus notes on breading, batter, and clarified butter.

CHAPTER 2
BREADS AND BATTERS

Pancakes, corn cakes, fritters, and freshly fried tortilla chipsheres an assortment of crispy favorites.

CHAPTER 3
EGGS AND CHEESE

Fried Egg Salad and Scots Eggs; Mozzarella Sandwiches, Parmesan Puffs, and Chiles Relleosappealing appetizers and entrees, with an international flair.

CHAPTER 4
FISH AND SHELLFISH

There is nothing better than fried fish, especially when there are hushpuppies alongside. Serve up Jessicas Porgies, Whole Fried Fish with Spicy Thai Sauce, Tempura Soft-Shells, and Upperlines Fried Green Tomatoes with Shrimp Rmoulade.

CHAPTER 5
POULTRY AND MEATS

Southern fried chickenof courseand lots more. Try your hand at Smothered Steak, Empanadas, Pan-Fried Pork Chops, and for next Thanksgiving, a deep-fried turkey.

CHAPTER 6
VEGETABLES

From Fried Baby Artichokes to Zucchini Pancakes, with Eggplant Home Fries, Okra Fritters, French Fries (double fried for extra crispness), and a few surpriseslike Fried Dill Picklesin between.

CHAPTER 7
FRUITS AND SWEETS

Heres the best way to end a mealMadeleines Fig Beignets and Fried Peach Pies, Elderberry-Flower Fritters, Sweet Fried Ricotta, Azorean Dreams, French Marvels, and even Fried Ice Cream.

CHAPTER 8
GO-WITHS

A selection of sauces for topping and dipping, and side dishes for accompanying your favorite fried foods. After all, every fry cook needs a good recipe for tartar sauce, potato salad, and coleslaw.

This book began several years ago in the Edisto Motel Restaurant in tiny Jacksonboro, South Carolina. It was in fact late winter, but here on the Carolina coast that means sweater weather, and I remember riding down Highway 17 with the car windows open a little to let in the early spring balm. Jacksonboro nestles up to a bend in the black and sinuous Edisto River and stops the divided highway nearly dead in its tracks. From here south the famed Ocean Highway, once the major north-south route from New York to Miami, must meander on a two-lane blacktop through the real lowcountrysaltmarsh and live oaks, old rice fields and palmettosuntil it reaches the developers plantations and the divided highway reemerges only to deliver you onto the bold concrete of I-95.