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Roden - The new book of Middle Eastern food

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Roden The new book of Middle Eastern food
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On this Updated and Greatly Enlarged Edition of her Book of Middle Eastern Food, Claudia Roden re-creates a classic. The book was originally published here in 1972 and was hailed by James Beard as a landmark in the field of cookery; this new version represents the accumulation of the authors thirty years of further extensive travel throughout the ever-changing landscape of the Middle East, gathering recipes and stories. Now Ms. Roden gives us more than 800 recipes, including the aromatic variations that accent a dish and define the country of origin: fried garlic and cumin and coriander from Egypt, cinnamon and allspice from Turkey, sumac and tamarind from Syria and Lebanon, pomegranate syrup from Iran, preserved lemon and harissa from North Africa. She has worked out simpler approaches to traditional dishes, using healthier ingredients and time-saving methods without ever sacrificing any of the extraordinary flavor, freshness, and texture that distinguish the cooking of this part of the world. Throughout these pages she draws on all four of the regions major cooking styles. From the tantalizing mezze-those succulent bites of filled fillo crescents and cigars, chopped salads, and stuffed morsels, as well as tahina, chickpeas, and eggplant in their many guises-to the skewered meats and savory stews and hearty grain and vegetable dishes, here is a rich array of the cooking that Americans embrace today. No longer considered exotic-all the essential ingredients are now available in supermarkets, and the more rare can be obtained through mail order sources (readily available on the Internet)-the foods of the Middle East are a boon to the home cook looking for healthy, inexpensive, flavorful, and wonderfully satisfying dishes, both for everyday eating and for special occasions. Claudia Rodens seminal book on Middle Eastern cooking, which James Beard called a landmark in the field of cookery when it was first published in 1972, is made new-with additional recipes, extensive variations, & new techniques, the fruit of 30 years of travel & research. There are now more than 800 recipes (including variations) from Morocco & Tunisia, Turkey & Greece, Lebanon, Syria, Egypt, Persia, & other Middle Eastern countries. They represent the best of the Middle East, & they stress simple dishes, healthful ingredients, & time-saving methods, with no sacrifice of extraordinary variety or delectable flavor. Richly infused with Rodens own memories of growing up in Egypt & with stories of her travels, the book is an excursion not merely into the cuisine of the region but into its culture as well. It is a book that both preserves the past & is alive with the present: a masterpiece made even more masterly-the quintessential Middle Eastern cookbook. The refined haute cuisine of Iran, based on rice exquisitely prepared and embellished with a range of meats, vegetables, fruits, and nuts-Arab cooking from Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan-at its finest today, and a good source for vegetable and bulgur wheat dishes-The legendary Turkish cuisine, with its kebabs, wheat and rice dishes, yogurt salads, savory pies, and syrupy pastries-North African cooking, particularly the splendid fare of Morocco, with its heady mix of hot and sweet, orchestrated to perfection in its couscous dishes and tagines. Read more...
Abstract: On this Updated and Greatly Enlarged Edition of her Book of Middle Eastern Food, Claudia Roden re-creates a classic. The book was originally published here in 1972 and was hailed by James Beard as a landmark in the field of cookery; this new version represents the accumulation of the authors thirty years of further extensive travel throughout the ever-changing landscape of the Middle East, gathering recipes and stories. Now Ms. Roden gives us more than 800 recipes, including the aromatic variations that accent a dish and define the country of origin: fried garlic and cumin and coriander from Egypt, cinnamon and allspice from Turkey, sumac and tamarind from Syria and Lebanon, pomegranate syrup from Iran, preserved lemon and harissa from North Africa. She has worked out simpler approaches to traditional dishes, using healthier ingredients and time-saving methods without ever sacrificing any of the extraordinary flavor, freshness, and texture that distinguish the cooking of this part of the world. Throughout these pages she draws on all four of the regions major cooking styles. From the tantalizing mezze-those succulent bites of filled fillo crescents and cigars, chopped salads, and stuffed morsels, as well as tahina, chickpeas, and eggplant in their many guises-to the skewered meats and savory stews and hearty grain and vegetable dishes, here is a rich array of the cooking that Americans embrace today. No longer considered exotic-all the essential ingredients are now available in supermarkets, and the more rare can be obtained through mail order sources (readily available on the Internet)-the foods of the Middle East are a boon to the home cook looking for healthy, inexpensive, flavorful, and wonderfully satisfying dishes, both for everyday eating and for special occasions. Claudia Rodens seminal book on Middle Eastern cooking, which James Beard called a landmark in the field of cookery when it was first published in 1972, is made new-with additional recipes, extensive variations, & new techniques, the fruit of 30 years of travel & research. There are now more than 800 recipes (including variations) from Morocco & Tunisia, Turkey & Greece, Lebanon, Syria, Egypt, Persia, & other Middle Eastern countries. They represent the best of the Middle East, & they stress simple dishes, healthful ingredients, & time-saving methods, with no sacrifice of extraordinary variety or delectable flavor. Richly infused with Rodens own memories of growing up in Egypt & with stories of her travels, the book is an excursion not merely into the cuisine of the region but into its culture as well. It is a book that both preserves the past & is alive with the present: a masterpiece made even more masterly-the quintessential Middle Eastern cookbook. The refined haute cuisine of Iran, based on rice exquisitely prepared and embellished with a range of meats, vegetables, fruits, and nuts-Arab cooking from Syria, Lebanon, and Jordan-at its finest today, and a good source for vegetable and bulgur wheat dishes-The legendary Turkish cuisine, with its kebabs, wheat and rice dishes, yogurt salads, savory pies, and syrupy pastries-North African cooking, particularly the splendid fare of Morocco, with its heady mix of hot and sweet, orchestrated to perfection in its couscous dishes and tagines

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Acknowledgments

T book has been an ongoing project, over four decades, with a second and now a third edition. So many people have contributed recipes, advice, stories, and information over the years that I cannot thank them all here, but they should know that every dish reminds me fondly of someone. I hear their voice as they described it and remember the taste and the event when they cooked it, as I remember the comments of those who ate the dish when I tried it. My parents, Cesar and Nelly Douek, are very much part of the book. My father inspired it by his enjoyment of life and appreciation of Middle Eastern food, and my mother advised and guided me enthusiastically throughout. I am also grateful for the help and affectionate support of my brothers, Ellis and Zaki.

I am especially grateful to those who contributed the very first recipes, sometimes the whole contents of their handwritten notebooks, in the very early days. Of these I would like to mention in particular Iris Galante, Lily Galante, Mrs R. Afif, my aunt Rgine Douek, and my cousin Irene Harari.

Belinda Bather was a major source of the first Turkish recipes, and Mrs V. Afsharian of the first Persian ones. Josephine Salam taught me a great deal about Lebanese cooking, and Nevin Halici about Turkish regional foods. Sami Zubeida has been an invaluable help with his knowledge of the Middle East and his love of food.

I wish to record my gratitude to Maxime Rodinson, whose brilliant seminal studies in Arab culinary history and analysis of early Arab cookery manuals are the source of much of my information about the history of Arab food. I also wish to acknowledge my debt to certain Arab, Turkish, and Persian cookery books which I have consulted. A list of Middle Eastern cookery books is given in the bibliography.

I wish to thank my first editor, the late Helena Radecka, for her guidance from the early stages of my project and for her enthusiasm throughout, and my friend Jill Norman, who gave much valued advice for the second edition. I have very special thanks for Judith Jones, who has been an incredible editor for this new American edition. Her enthusiasm and very high standards, her advice, and her appreciation of good food and culinary traditions have brought out the best. It is a pleasure to work with her.

ALSO BY CLAUDIA RODEN

The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York

Coffee: A Connoisseur's Companion

Mediterranean Cookery

The Good Food of ItalyRegion by Region

Everything Tastes Better Outdoors

A Book of Middle Eastern Food

APPENDIX
About Early Culinary Manuals

As early as the eighth century, writings on food were abundant and popular. So much so that the scientist Salih Abd al-Quddus, who was to be executed as a heretic, complained bitterly: We live among animals who roam in search of pastures without seeking to understand. If we write about fish and vegetables we are invested in their eyes with great merit, but truly scientific subjects are for them painful and boring.

Many early cookbooks are mentioned in various works, but they have unfortunately been lost to us. Al Nadim, the well-known bibliographer who lived in Baghdad in the tenth century, lists eleven Books Composed About Cooked Food dating from between the eighth and the tenth centuries and gives the names of their authors.

At the Bodleian Library in Oxford there is a handwritten manuscript of one of the earliest existing Arabic cookbooks, copies of which are at the University Library of Helsinki and Topkapi Saray in Istanbul. It is an anonymous work adorned with poems and gastronomic anecdotes about famous men, written in the tenth century and entitled Kitab al-Tabikh wa-Islah al-Aghdhiya al-Makulat (Book of Cooking and Better Eating). It quotes recipes from older books, such as those of Ibn al-Masawaih and Ibn al-Mawsili of the early ninth century. In Istanbul there are two manuscript copies of a book called Kitab al-Atima al-Mu'tada (Book of Daily Food), which was written in the thirteenth century. Other very important culinary manuscripts of the same period exist in Baghdad, Damascus, Morocco, and Spain.

In the first edition of this book I featured many recipes from two of the works from Baghdad and Damascus, but I have left them out of this edition to make room for all the new recipes, and because they are primarily of academic interest and scholars have made them available today in new translations. In the last few years European and American scholars have studied all the medieval culinary works which have come down to us, and their analyses, with added commentaries and translated recipes, are now available in English. Most important are Lucie Bolens's book La Cuisine andalouse, un art de vivre, XIeXIIIe sicle, now also in an English translation; David Waines's In a Caliph's KitchenMedieval Arabic Cooking for the Modern Gourmet; and the forthcoming Medieval Arab CookeryPapers by Maxime Rodinson and Charles Perry.

Ibn Sayyar al Warraq's Kitab Tabikh (Cookbook) from Baghdad

A compilation of recipes recorded by a certain Abu Muhammad al Muzzafar ibn Nasr Ibn Sayyar al Warraq in Baghdad in the tenth century, during the Abbasid Caliphate, is the earliest collection of recipes to have survived. It is very extensive, includes culinary poems, and draws on previous, ninth-century sources. It reflects the cosmopolitan court cuisine at the heart of the Islamic Empire, and touches on subjects such as utensils, kitchen practices, and table manners.

The work has been edited by Kaj Ohrnberg and Sahban Mroueh (Helsinki, 1987). David Waines features some of the recipes in his In a Caliph's KitchenMedieval Arabic Cooking for the Modern Gourmet.

Muhammad ibn al-Hassan al-Baghdadi's

Kitab al-Tabikh

In 1934 the Iraqi scholar Dr. Daoud Chelebi discovered two manuscripts written in Baghdad in the year 1226 by a certain Muhammad ibn al-Hassan ibn Muhammad ibn al-Karim al Katib al-Baghdadi, who died in 1239 A.D. Dr. Chelebi published it in Mosul with the same title, Kitab al-Tabikh (Cookbook). The late Professor A. J. Arberry translated it into English and included it in his article entitled A Baghdad Cookery Book published in the periodical Islamic Culture 13 (1939). This is the work that I studied and cooked from extensively years ago. You will find it in a new translation by Charles Perry in the forthcoming Medieval Arab CookeryPapers by Maxime Rodinson and Charles Perry. David Waines features many of the recipes in In a Caliph's KitchenMedieval Arabic Cooking for the Modern Gourmet.

In the preface, after the obligatory praises to God and some remarks on the importance of good wholesome eating, the author says he wrote the book for his own use and for those interested in the Art of Cooking. He divides pleasure into six classes: food, drink, clothes, sex, scent, and sound. Of these, he says, the noblest and most consequential is food, and he subscribes to the doctrine of the pre-eminence of the pleasure of eating above all other pleasures. It was for that reason that he composed the book. Al-Baghdadi chose to include, from among the recipes popular at the time, only those he personally liked, and discarded what he describes as strange and unfamiliar dishes, in the composition of which unwholesome and unsatisfying ingredients are used. There is general advice about the necessity of keeping nails trimmed and pots clean, or rubbing copper pans bright with brick dust, potash, saffron, and citron leaves, and on such things as the value of using fresh and strongly scented spices ground very fine.

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