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Claudia Roden - The Book of Jewish Food: An Odyssey from Samarkand to New York

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A monumental work--the story of the Jewish people told through the story of Jewish cooking--The Book of Jewish Food traces the development of both Ashkenazic and Sephardic Jewish communities and their cuisine over the centuries. The 800 magnificent recipes, many never before documented, represent treasures garnered bu Roden through nearly 15 years of traveling around the world. 50 photos & illustrations

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PENGUIN BOOKS

THE BOOK OF JEWISH FOOD

Far and away the best food book of the year A work of devoted scholarship, written with love and a most becoming humility, it has already achieved the status of a classic Paul Bailey, Daily Telegraph

Much more than a cookery book with delicious-sounding recipes, some centuries old, drawn from throughout the Jewish world. She crams this fascinating treasure-house with history, personal memories and anecdotes and, as with the best teachers, entertains as she informs Claire MacDonald, Mail on Sunday

Curried chicken with capsicums served with coconut rice, tagliatelle with roasted chicken and pine kernels and Moroccan couscous in various forms can all lay claim to being as Jewish as, well, chicken soup. All these dishes, and many more, have been lovingly researched, collated and compiled by cookery writer Claudia Roden over a period of fifteen years Simon Round, Jewish Chronicle

Learned, evocative, very well written and eye-opening to anyone who thinks of Jewish food as salt beef sandwiches and chicken soup Richard Ehrlich, Independent on Sunday

We are not just given instructions on how to make, say, chopped liver; each dish comes with a short commentary on where it came from in the first place, which allows for regional differences Claudia Roden has come up with the goods Jay Rayner, Observer

Roden never loses sight of what makes Jewish food Jewish, whether it is in Aleppo, Rome or New York. If ever a cookbook proved that food is one of the best introductions to an understanding of a culture, this is it Rowley Leigh, Guardian Weekend

For the intellectual cook, you cant better Claudia Roden, last of the scholar/cooks in the tradition of Elizabeth David and Jane Grigson: her books are learned, loving, delicious, The Book of Jewish Food is definitive Jackie Wullschlager, Financial Times

BY THE SAME AUTHOR

A New Book of Middle Eastern Food

Coffee: A Connoisseurs Companion

Mediterranean Cookery

The Food of Italy

Everything Tastes Better Outdoors

Tamarind and Saffron

THE BOOK OF JEWISH FOOD AN ODYSSEY FROM SAMARKAND AND VILNA TO THE PRESENT DAY - photo 1

THE BOOK OF JEWISH FOOD

AN ODYSSEY FROM SAMARKAND AND VILNA TO THE PRESENT DAY

Claudia Roden PENGUIN BOOKS PENGUIN BOOKS Published by the Penguin - photo 2

ClaudiaRoden

Picture 3

PENGUIN BOOKS

PENGUIN BOOKS

Published by the Penguin Group

Penguin Books Ltd, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL , England

Penguin Putnam Inc., 375 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014, USA

Penguin Books Australia Ltd, 250 Camberwell Road, Camberwell, Victoria 3124, Australia

Penguin Books Canada Ltd, 10 Alcorn Avenue, Toronto, OntarioCanada M4V 3B2

Penguin Books (NZ) Ltd, Cnr Rosedale and Airborne Roads, Albany, Auckland, New Zealand

Penguin Books (South Africa) (Pty) Ltd, 24 Sturdee Avenue, Rosebank 2196, South Africa

Penguin Books India (P) Ltd, 11, Community Centre, Panchsheel Park, New Delhi 110 017, India

Penguin Books Ltd, Registered Offices: 80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL England

First published in the United States of America by Alfred A. Knopf 1996

Published in Great Britain by Viking 1997

Published in Penguin Books 1999

10 9 8

Copyright Claudia Roden, 1996

Illustrations copyright John Spencer, 1996

The moral right of the author has been asserted

Grateful acknowledgement is made to the following for permission to reprint previously published material:

CIS Publishers: Excerpts from Pathway to Jerusalem: The Travel Letters of Rabbi Obadiah of Bertinoro, translated by Yaakov Dovid Shulman, copyright 1992 by CIS Publishers.

Reprinted by permission of CIS Publishers. Commentary and Allen Mandelbaum: The poem From the Hungry, Praise by Immanuel ben Solomon of Rome, translated by Allen Mandelbaum (New York: Commentary, 1951). All rights reserved.

Reprinted by permission of Commentary and Allen Mandelbaum. International Universities Press, Inc.: Excerpts from Life is With People: The Culture of the Shtetl by M. Zborowski and E. Herzog (1952).

Adapted by permission of International Universities Press, Inc.

All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise), without the prior written permission of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book

ISBN: 978-0-14-192851-7

In memory of my parents, Nelly and Cesar Douek,
and my brother Zaki.

For my children, Simon, Nadia and Anna,
and my grandchildren, Cesar, Peter and Sarah,
with love.

CONTENTS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

The best part of working on this book was meeting and getting to know people in - photo 4 The best part of working on this book was meeting and getting to know people in many different countries. People gave me recipes, invited me to eat with them and to watch them cook, told me about their lives and those of their parents and grandparents, and about their trades. They sent me articles and other source material, lent me books and photographs, invited me to hear lectures and attend conferences, gave me all kinds of advice and information, and pointed me in the right directions. Having begun my research more than sixteen years ago, I am indebted to so many people that trying to acknowledge all those who have helped is impossible. But I would like them to know that their contributions have been precious and valued, that they have made the book what it is, and that they will always be remembered fondly and with enormous gratitude by me. Some will find their names in the text.

I would also like to thank my children, close friends, and other relatives who have encouraged me and sustained me with their enthusiasm for the project. Of these I have special thanks for my brother Ellis, my son-in-law, Clive Wolman, and my friends Ella Almagor and Sami Zubaida, all of whom read bits of first drafts, and for Danny Almagor, who found me poems and proverbs and references on Jewish law. I owe special thanks to my one-time neighbour Esra Kahn, librarian at Jews College, London, who found me useful books and read and commented on my manuscript.

I have a special debt of gratitude to International Universities Press for allowing me to use material from Life Is With People: The Culture of the Shtetl, by Mark Zborowski and Elizabeth Herzog, and to Gerard Silvain for helping to choose photographs from his huge collection of Jewish postcards (he has more than 50,000) at the last moment, as we were going into print.

My warmest thanks are for my editor, Judith Jones, who encouraged me throughout the years, advised and guided me, and brought out the best in me, with sympathy and intelligence. I have fond memories of spending time with Judith and her wonderful husband, Evan: in New York, walking to their apartment from the office and meeting Evan half-way, stopping to pick up some goodies, standing in the kitchen while they cooked; at their home in Vermont, exploring the countryside, eating in grand style on the porch overlooking the lake after a swim; and in Paris, walking the streets with them and exploring the restaurants together. That was part of the pleasure of working on the book.

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