30 Creative Jewelry Components
Denise Peck & Jane Dickerson
CONTENTS
Introduction
There probably isnt a piece of jewelry you wear that doesnt have a finding on it. Findings are the unsung heroes of jewelry. They connect, attach, close, and join jewelry pieces together. You may think of findings as just clasps and ear wires, but the term also covers head pins, charms, connectors, links, bead caps, and more.
If youre a jewelry maker, you know theres an enormous selection of commercial findings available to finish your designs. But why design a beautiful custom piece and then finish it with a commercial finding? Especially when commercial findings become so popular that you see them everywhere and on everyone elses jewelry. When you create your own findings, your designs are completely unique, and your distinctive style becomes a trademark look that is quickly recognizable by your fans. Not only will your handcrafted findings complement and complete your designs, they are also much more economical!
This book teaches you, step by step, how to make thirty beautiful, handcrafted metal and wire findings. Projects include bead caps, clasps, ear wires, links, charms, and even a quick and easy multistrand spacer bar. Weve also included several inspirational jewelry pieces to show how the findings can be used. (Note: Be sure to familiarize yourself with the section before beginning the projects. This section will show you how to master all the techniques weve used and referred to in each project.) Once youre familiar with the techniques weve shared, you can use them to design and build your own collection of custom findings. Imagine the possibilities!
Denise Peck
Jane Dickerson
To Buy or Not to Buy
Findings can be large, small, decorative, or utilitarian, but they are always integral to a piece of jewelry. Either you want them to be part of the design or you want them to go unnoticed, but in every case, its a decision that will be key to your final design.
Many of us often rely on commercially produced findings. And some of them have their place and can be a good choice. But there are many ways to create your own simple custom findings from wire and sheet metal without an elaborate jewelry studio setup or a huge investment. Well-designed, handcrafted findings can become your signature as a designer, complementing and enhancing each piece. A fabulous finding can transform jewelry and become the focal point of the design.
There are three basic types of findings: functional, decorative, and hybrid.
Functional jewelry findings serve a purpose such as attaching pieces together. Because these components are mechanical in nature their appearance is less critical, and often minimalistic. They include pin backs, crimps, earring clips and posts, and screw backs.
Decorative jewelry findings are often handmade and are intended to add beauty to the piece. These include charms, bead caps, head pins, and ear wires.
Hybrid jewelry findings blend both function and design: beautiful clasps, decorative bails, end caps, as well as textured links and connectors. These components serve a mechanical function as well as contribute to the overall design of the piece.
Although, with the help of this book, youre going to learn how to make your own decorative and hybrid findings, we recognize that there will always be some commercial findings that have a role in jewelry making. Some mechanisms are far too complex to make yourself, such as lever-back ear wires. Or you may want a decorative clasp that is meticulously inlaid with stone. Other findings may be tiny or hidden, such as crimps, and theres no point in laboring over those.
Save yourself time and money by purchasing these types of findings.
Buy It!
Heres a list of commercially produced findings you may find worth purchasing:
- Pin backs
- Crimps
- Clamshell bead tips
- Crimp bead tips
- Lever-back ear wires
- Screw-back ear wires
- Crimp covers
Make It!
On the other hand, you can spend lots of money on simple findings that are a cinch to create. Its well worth setting aside a little time for some easy production work of some findings so that you always have them on hand.
- Jump rings
- Head pins
- Hook clasps
- Ear wires
The Projects
Easily Charmed
by Jane Dickerson
Clever snap rivets are such an easy way to create the look of a set stone without any of the effort. Make this charm any size you wantlarge enough for a pendant or small enough to wear as a drop from an earring.
Materials
26-gauge dead-soft sterling silver or dead-soft raw copper sheet
1 faux turquoise 532" (4 mm) snap rivet
1 #006 black rubber O-ring, 18" ID 14" OD (3 6 mm)
Tools
Easily Charmed template (download here)
Fine-point Sharpie marker
Ruler (metric/U.S.)
Metal shears
Plastic mallet
Steel bench block
100/180 coarse-grit salon board
Texture hammer
Power Punch pliers with 532" (4 mm) punch
Snap rivet setter
4 Pro-Polish pads
35 mm round mandrel pliers (or bail-forming pliers)
1.25 mm hole-punch pliers
Rotary tumbler with mixed stainless steel shot
Finished Size
78" (2.2 cm)
Cut out the and trace it onto the sheet or tape it onto the sheet with transparent packing tape. Cut out the shape with metal shears. If needed, gently reshape the cutout with the plastic mallet on the bench block. File the edges with the salon board.