John Sartin - The Complete Photo Guide to Making Metal Jewelry

The Complete Photo Guide to

Copyright 2013 Creative Publishing international, Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any meansgraphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping of information on storage and retrieval systemswithout the written permission of the publisher. Due to differing conditions, materials, and skill levels, the publisher and various manufacturers disclaim any liability for unsatisfactory results or injury due to improper use of tools, materials, or information in this publication. First published in the United States of America by Creative Publishing international, Inc., a member of Quayside Publishing Group 400 First Avenue North Suite 300 Minneapolis, MN 55401 1-800-328-3895 www.creativepub.com Digital Edition: 978-1-61058-730-3
Softcover Edition: 978-1-58923-736-0 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available Copy Editor: Cathy Broberg Proofreader: Karen Ruth Book and Cover Design: Kim Winscher Page Layout: Laurie Young Illustrations: John Sartin Photographs: John Sartin Other photographers: Azad www.azadphoto.com Brian Mark www.brianmarkphotography.com Hap Sakwa www.hapsakwa.com Jerry Anthony www.jerryanthonyphoto.com Jim Lawson www.jamesnlawson.com Larry Sanders www.juryslides.com Ralph Gabriner www.gabriner.com While we dont know exactly when the first piece of jewelry was made, its undeniable that we have been fascinated by and have made jewelry for millennia. Examples of what are thought to be objects of body adornment date back as far as 100,000 years.

These first forms of jewelry were crafted from organic objects like shells, claws, bone, teeth, carved wood, and stone and were strung on animal sinew or natural twine. The specific reason that early humans made and wore jewelry is a mystery. Possible motivations include protection from evil, distinction of social standing, and items of monetary exchange to name a few. But whatever the purpose, jewelry has been part of humanity for thousands of years. Jewelry made from metal did not appear until approximately 40005000 BC. The use of metal not only expanded the possibilities of design, but also created permanence in the fossil record that did not exist with organic materials.

Gold was most likely the first metal used for jewelry fabrication, as gold can be found as is in bulk form; copper and silver, on the other hand, are usually found in metal ores that require smelting to be extracted. Gold nuggets were typically pounded into thin sheets, cut into shapes, and formed by hand. As expertise in the medium developed, gems were worked and added as decorative embellishments, and more intricate designs were created. The interest in making and wearing jewelry has not waned over the ages; rather, it has grown to a point that inexpensive jewelry may even be sold at your corner convenience store. Once a luxury of only royalty, jewelry is now a possession of most and independent of social status. As for the jewelry maker, I believe that modern-day makers and their ancient counterparts craft jewelry for the same reasons.

There is something special and fulfilling when you can take a piece of plain metal and, with a little time and the correct techniques, transform it into an amazing piece of wearable art. Jewelry making is an artan art that transmits the joy the maker experiences crafting a piece not only to a customer that buys the piece, but to every person who sees it in the window of a store, on the pages of a magazine, or around the neck of a complete stranger. SAFETY PRECAUTIONS The number one thing in shop safety is to know the dangers, and these dangers exist only if you ignore them. Following, in no specific order, are the top safety precautions. Always wear safety glasses, especially if you are using power tools. If you have long hair, secure it so that it will not interfere with your work.

Dont wear loose clothing or long sleeves that might catch in moving machinery. Always wear closed-toe shoes and flame-resistant clothing. Always have adequate ventilation, especially when you are working with gasses or chemicals. Always wear a dust mask when grinding, polishing, or sanding, especially when using power tools. Always know where your hands are. Remove distractions and always be mentally present; if your mind is preoccupied, you will not have a productive day in the studio and you might not be thinking about safety.

If you keep these simple safety precautions in mind, along with those specific to each technique, your studio time will be educational, productive, and very rewarding.

Reading the information in this book will give you a firm foundation to pursue your interest in making metal jewelry and join the multitude of professional and amateur jewelry makers who share the same passion. Although there are many more techniquesenough to fill several more volumes of this sizethe techniques presented in this book represent the fundamentals used in handcrafting metal jewelry. Each section of the book introduces you to a series of techniques that builds on the previous sections to increase your skill level. You will be guided, step-by-step, with clear and concise instructions and close up images. The projects in this book are designed in the same manner: each one uses a select set of skills, and they increase in difficulty to challenge you as you work through them.

Regardless of your experience level, there is something for everyone. Each project includes a detailed list of materials needed to make the jewelry piece as it is shown; however, I urge you to use your artistic license and make each project your own. To inspire you, a gallery of amazing jewelry from some of the most accomplished makers has been included in the back of the book. Take time right now to look through the gallery and study each piece. Then, as you work through the techniques and projects, you will see similarities in how these pieces are constructed. All efforts have been made to present this material in the safest way possible.

Nevertheless, making metal jewelry, as with any craft, comes with its possible dangers. Each technique and project will start with a note on safety precautions. Please do not skip reading these cautions, even if they are repeated from the previous techniques. Since the author or publisher are not presenting this information in person, and are unable to control the application of safety precautions or the correct form in using the techniques, we cannot be held responsible for the incorrect interpretation or use of the material contained in this book.

A lthough degrees in metallurgy or gemology are not needed to make jewelry, it does help to know the names, characteristics, and terminology associated with the materials you will be working with. There are two unique units of measurement for weighing precious metals: the troy ounce and the pennyweight. There are two unique units of measurement for weighing precious metals: the troy ounce and the pennyweight.Next page