Zimmerman - 48 hours in Chicago

WHY GO The Windy City will blow you away with its cloud-scraping architecture, lakefront beaches and world-class museums. Want to bike by Obamas house? Eat a gourmet hot dog? See a play before it exports to Broadway? Chicagos blend of high culture and earthy pleasures delivers the goods.

First things first: ditch the car. Exploring Chicago by foot and the elevated train system is the hassle-free way to go. In summertime, water taxis ply the river and lakefront, too.

Energize for the day ahead with a rocket-fuel cup of Intelligentsia Coffee. The local chain roasts its own beans, and the baristas know how to percolate them (staff won the US Barista Championship in 2009). Sip by the window and watch the crowds pass by theyre likely headed to Millennium Park, one block east.

Where to start amid the mod designs? Pritzker Pavilion, Frank Gehrys swooping silver band shell, on which the park centers? Crown Fountain, Jaume Plensas splashy water work, where images of locals spout gargoyle-style? Or the Bean (officially Cloud Gate), Anish Kapoors 110-ton, silver-drop sculpture? Thats the one. Join the visitors swarming it to see the skyline reflections. The park also offers free guided tours, free yoga classes (Saturday morning, on the Great Lawn) and free classical and world-music concerts all in summertime, of course, Chicagos snow-free season.

A silvery pedestrian bridge rises from the parks center and arches over to the Art Institute of Chicago. Damn, theres a lot of stuff hanging on the walls. Its the second-largest museum in the country, with masterpieces aplenty, especially Impressionist and Postimpressionist works. Georges Seurats pointillist Un Dimanche Aprs-Midi lle de la Grande Jatte (A Sunday Afternoon on the Island of La Grande Jatte) is here; so is Grant Woods American Gothic. The Modern Wing puts up Picassos and Mirs by the roomful. Youll be gawking for at least few hours, and needing a repast by the time you leave.

Fortunately, The Gage sits across the street. The gastropub dishes Irish-tinged grub with a fanciful twist, like Guinness-battered fish and chips or fries smothered in curry gravy. The booze rocks, too, including a solid whiskey list and small-batch beers that pair with the food.

By now its hotel check-in time. Architecture buffs can key in at the Hotel Burnham, housed in the landmark 1890s Reliance Building, the precedent for the modern skyscraper. Eco-guests can curb their carbon footprint at LEED-certified Hotel Felix (free parking if youre driving a hybrid).

Walk west a block from Hotel Burnham to see The Picasso, a sculpture created by Mr Abstract himself and ensconced in Daley Plaza. Bird, dog, woman? Picasso couldnt decide either, which is why its officially titled Untitled. Across Washington St is another head-scratcher, this one by Joan Mir called The Sun, the Moon and One Star. More big-name public artworks pop up throughout downtown.

Make your way north on Michigan Ave, aka the Magnificent Mile. Bloomingdales, Saks and other swanky department stores are nothing you havent seen before, but its convenient to have them all in a row. The Tribune Tower raises its Gothic head on Michigan Aves east side soon after you cross the river. Check out chunks of the Taj Mahal, Parthenon and further famous structures embedded in the lower walls. Across the street, the Wrigley Building glows as white as the Doublemint Twins teeth, and a few paces north, stairs lead to the underground Billy Goat Tavern. Tribune and Sun-Times reporters have guzzled in the scruffy lair for decades. Its also the place that spawned the Curse of the Cubs. Order a burger and Schlitz, then look around at the newspapered walls, and youll get the details.

Blues- and jazzheads will want to detour west a few blocks to Jazz Record Mart and flick through the thousands of CDs and LPs. Otherwise, its time to get high. The John Hancock Center is Chicagos third-tallest building, after the Willis Tower (ne Sears) and the Trump Tower, but it has the sweetest views thanks to its lakeside locale. Those needing a city history lesson should ascend to the 94th-floor observatory, and get the edifying audio tour that comes with admission. Those secure in their knowledge can shoot straight up to the 96th-floor lounge, where the view is free if you buy a drink.

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All the free stuff is what keeps us in town! The Lincoln Park Conservatory has desert, jungle, orchids its a free trip around the world. The Cultural Center puts on awesome free concerts during lunchtime. Events like Blues Fest and Jazz Fest fill downtown most summer weekends, with acts like Stevie Wonder for free. SummerDance is every Thursday free dance lessons, followed by a great local band, and always a crazy, integrated mix of people.