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Fernald Anya - Home cooked : essential recipes for a new way to cook

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Fernald Anya Home cooked : essential recipes for a new way to cook

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A recipe collection and how-to guide for preparing base ingredients that can be used to make simple, weeknight meals, while also teaching skills like building and cooking over a fire, and preserving meat and produce, written by a sustainable food expert and founder of Belcampo Meat Co.
Anya Fernalds approach to cooking is anything but timid: rich sauces, meaty ragus, perfectly charred vegetables. And her execution is unfussy, with the singular goal of making delicious, exuberantly flavored, unpretentious food with the best ingredients. Inspired by the humble traditions of cucina povera, the frugal cooking of Italian peasants, Anya brings a forgotten pragmatism to home cooking, making use of seasonal bounty by canning and preserving fruits and vegetables, salt curing fish, simmering flavorful broths with leftover bones, and transforming tough cuts of meat into supple stews and sauces with long cooking. These building blocks become the basis for a kitchen repertoire that is inspired, thrifty, environmentally sound, and most importantly, bursting with flavor. Recipes like Red Pepper and Walnut Crema, Green Tomato and Caper Salad, Chickpea Torte, Cracked Crab with Lemon-Chile Vinaigrette, Veal Meatballs, Anise-Seed Breakfast Cookies, and Ligurian Sangria will add dimension and excitement to both weeknight meals and parties.
We all want to be better, more intuitive, more relaxed cooksnot just for the occasional dinner party, but every day. Punctuated by essays on the authors approach to entertaining, cooking with cast-iron, and a primer on buying and cooking steak, Home Cooked is an antidote to the chef and restaurant books that leave you no roadmap for tonights dinner. With Home Cooked, Anya gives you the confidence, and the recipes, to love cooking again.
Saveur, Best of 2016

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Copyright 2016 by Anya Fernald Photographs copyright 2016 by Brown W Cannon - photo 1
Copyright 2016 by Anya Fernald Photographs copyright 2016 by Brown W Cannon - photo 2
Copyright 2016 by Anya Fernald Photographs copyright 2016 by Brown W Cannon - photo 3

Copyright 2016 by Anya Fernald

Photographs copyright 2016 by Brown W. Cannon III

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Penguin Random House LLC, New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Penguin Random House LLC.

Photographs on by Erin Kunkel.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Fernald, Anya, author.

Home cooked : essential recipes for a new way to cook / by Anya Fernald with Jessica Battilana.

pages cm

Includes bibliographical references and index.

1. Cooking. I. Battilana, Jessica, author. II. Title.

TX714.F467 2016

641.5dc23

2015033515

Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-840-3

ebook ISBN: 978-1-60774-841-0

Cover design by Robert van Horne

v4.1

prh

This book is dedicated to Anne Russ Fernald - photo 4

This book is dedicated to Anne & Russ Fernald

My kitchen an introduction Today having your child choose a career in farming - photo 5


My kitchen an introduction Today having your child choose a career in farming - photo 6
My kitchen an introduction Today having your child choose a career in farming - photo 7

My kitchen: an introduction

Today, having your child choose a career in farming has become almost prestigious, as Americas interest in food has reached new heights. But I assure you that back in 1993, when I graduated high school, no one in Palo Alto, California, was dreaming their daughter would grow up to run a meat company. My parents had been charmed by my entrepreneurial spunk when I started a cookie business as a teen and were happy that I was able to cook for them from a fairly young age, but when I announced my plans they were worried about what exactly I would end up doing.


My parents are academics and school is pretty important to them. I went to college mostly to make them happy, but even then I knew my career was going to have a culinary bent. I got a fellowship straight out of college that provided me with the funds to spend a year working in cheese dairies in very rural parts of southern Europe and northern Africa. To get around on the cheap, I bought a folding bicycle and figured out how to use the train system. My budget for the whole year of travel was $25,000: $20,000 from the fellowship and a $5,000 check my grandfather gave me as my college graduation present. The fellowship was for recent college graduates to expand their horizons in a field where there was no linear path to further their expertise, and artisan cheese making certainly checked that box.

Most days I woke at the crack of dawn and cycled down some bumpy road to visit a dairy, trying to get there when the milk was still warm. I visited the United Kingdom, Switzerland, France, Greece, Tunisia, and Italy, stopping in at farms and dairies all along the way. I learned a lot about self-reliance in that year, even spent a night in a county jail in Greece (long story), but above all I learned to eat.

At work at a sheep milk dairy in central Italy Every time I visited a dairy - photo 8

At work at a sheep milk dairy in central Italy.

Every time I visited a dairy and spent a few hours hanging around the aging room with one of these rural masters, they would invariably invite me to join them for the main meal of the day, lunch. We would eat for a few hours and talk further, and I would see a meal unfold in traditional fashion: bread set right on the table, salt pinched out of a bowl (and it was different than the salt I was used to), butter spread thickly, and eggs or a big piece of fresh cheese drenched in oil as a main course.

When I think back, a lot of the food I cook today came directly from what I learned from watching farmers eat simple food in their own homes. For example, I saw an animal being killed for the first timea pig, in a courtyard, with a knifeand learned to make blood sausage and chicharrns that very same day.

I started that year of cheese making as a wannabe gourmet and ended it as a nascent farmer. Id spent a year talking my way into dozens of dairies in languages I did not really speak and had developed a taste for travel and exploration. I was not ready to move back to the United States.

I had met a fairly well-organized research groupthe Consorzio Ricerca Filiera Lattiero-Casearia (CoRFiLaC)while I was visiting Sicily during my year of cheese making, and I was able to secure a work visa and a job offer from them. Shortly after, I moved to Ragusa, a town in southeastern Sicily, and began two years of work with a team that I affectionately nicknamed the Cheese Mob. At the time, the group was primarily responsible for managing denomination of origin labeling for cheese (these are the DOP or AOC labels you see on many quality European products), an authority that was taken from them in later years thanks to shady dealings.

When I worked there the Cheese Mob was flush with EU cash primarily earmarked - photo 9

When I worked there, the Cheese Mob was flush with EU cash, primarily earmarked for projects intended to stimulate the regional food economy in this underdeveloped region of Sicily. I led a business development program, and my work consisted of writing a few financial and marketing plans, attempting to implement them, organizing an export program, and eating a lot of epic dinners. In retrospect, the EU contracts must have stipulated that they hire someone who was not from Sicily, as I was definitely woefully underqualified for the job and can think of little reason that I would have landed it otherwise. But I remember feeling that I was in the right place when my first week of work landed me in a Sicilian village that was hosting a competition that involved rolling giant wheels of sheeps milk cheese down the mountainside in a sort of race (they boarded the windows and doors of the homes along the routethose cheeses moved fast).

As time went on, my work environment became increasingly operatic, with tears (regularly) and knives (occasionally) appearing during staff meetings, and my boss making the regular accusation that one or another of his core team were betrayers. It was colorful and frankly pretty stressful for twenty-three-year-old me, but the life I was living made it worth it. I spent the weekends in the countryside, evenings in the piazza, ate granita with brioche for breakfast, and became fluent in Italian. I joined the towns marching band and played my oboe at all of the processions that marched through our town and the neighboring villages. The bands favorite piece to play while marching behind the swaying statue of the Virgin was the theme from

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