Ross - Dining with the Rich and Royal

Dining with Destiny Series as part of the Rowman & Littlefield Studies in Food and Gastronomy

General Editor: Ken Albala, Professor of History, University of the Pacific (kalbala@pacific.edu)

Rowman & Littlefield Executive Editor: Suzanne Staszak-Silva (sstaszak-silva@rowman.com)

The volumes in the Dining with Destiny series explore food biography, examining the private eating lives of icons from across the span of literature, art, music, politics, and revolution. If youve ever wondered what Lenin lunched on, whether George Orwell really swigged Victory Gin, or if theres such a thing as a Freudian supper, then the Dining with Destiny series is for you. Behind every great man and woman is a great meal. Their peccadilloes are explored anecdotally against the backdrops of history and culture, with accompanying recipes. Taste the disconsolate marriage of Marilyn Monroe to Arthur Miller, make red gravy and pasta Sinatra-style, or shake up the kind of chocolate malted that Woody Allen likes. How about a banana sandwich with Queen Elizabeth? Or a road trip picnic with Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald?

Dining with Destiny is not just for all the foodies out therethe night-time cocoa will lie forgotten as you realize that Malcolm X entered the civil rights movement by rejecting anything piggy on his plate and as the Swinging Sixties are revealed through the hedonism and hashish cookies of Mick Jagger and Bob Dylan. The reader will dream of sitting at the table prepared by Hitchcock, Nelson Mandela, or Picasso. But beware: Dals lobster in chocolate sauce means that he has a desire to sleep with you rather than paint.

Each of these figures took part in landmark historical and cultural events that have shaped and defined our way of lifebut they also had to eat. Now it is time to reveal the real man by looking in his fridge to discover what makes him a revolutionary, a hero, a rogue! Dining with Destiny lets you taste whats on Darwins fork.

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All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, including information storage and retrieval systems, without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote passages in a review.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Information Available

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Names: Ross, Fiona, 1966 author.

Title: Dining with the rich and royal / Fiona Ross.

Description: Lanham : Rowman & Littlefield, a wholly owned subsidiary of The Rowman & Littlefield Publishing Group, Inc., [2016] | Series: Dining with destiny series as part of the Rowman & Littlefield studies in food and gastronomy | Includes bibliographical references and index.

Identifiers: LCCN 2016013295 (print) | LCCN 2016017848 (ebook) | ISBN 9781442252271 (cloth : alk. paper) | ISBN 9781442252288 (electronic)

Subjects: LCSH: International cooking. | Rich peopleSocial life and customs. | Royal householdsHistory. | Dinners and diningHistory. | LCGFT: Cookbooks.

Classification: LCC TX725.A1 R6625 2016 (print) | LCC TX725.A1 (ebook) | DDC 641.59dc23

LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2016013295

The paper used in this publication meets the minimum requirements of American National Standard for Information SciencesPermanence of Paper for Printed Library Materials, ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992.

Printed in the United States of America

I would like to dedicate this book to these special people, lost and found, and their food:

Alastair Rosss marvelous breakfasts

Moira Rosss skirlie forever; it was poetry, and so were you, my love

Roberta, Louise, Ginny, and Bob Catizones incredible pasta sauce (those Italians in Pennsylvania sure had some fun)

Ian and Dorothy McWalters rhubarb pie and apple snow

MMMs lamb, Jane Levys semidefrosted fish, and Lindsay Monroes spaghetti bolognaise

Amanda Duncans last song; heres hoping heaven is kind to you

Jaja and Jojos roast chicken with Sophia on Sundays (possibly with Jojos kipper stock)

Jimmy Turners Waltzing Matilda

Elsie Gordons Swiss milk toffee (hidden in Tupperware from my brother, Alasdair Ross)

Olive Buckets coconut buns in Gods glory

Alex Rosss lamb chops and permanently bad-tempered dogs, all called Angus

Sarah Parrys caipirinha; Simon Saunderss risotto; and Gemma Keaneys bean stew

Glenys and Glynn Sangers kitchen of kindness

Heres tae us, whas like us? Damn few and theyre a deid.

L ike all books, this one owes its life to many people. Apart from the rich and royal figures who crowd its pages, I want to thank my kindly and talented editor, Ken Albala, for his advice and support. The library staff in the hot and dusty Upper Reading Room of the Bodleian Library have been wonderful, carting endless volumes of peculiar books from deep down in the stacks. Thank you to my dear friend Gillian Harrison for introducing me to the Bodleian and for all her fine companionship there in the golden hours. Thank you to Harry Harrison for his many kind lunches. Thanks to my darlings Moira and Alastair Ross for teaching me (a.k.a. Chones) and Little Alasdair how to hold our knives and forks and for feeding us so well and for not letting the seven dwarves take Little Alasdair. Id also like to thank the magnificent Margaret Conway and her husband, Ken Lovesey, for filming me while I curried a goat in their kitchen; Simon Saunders for his inspiring and beautiful ideas; Shelley Couper for helping me roast a suckling pig on a makeshift spit in her backyard; and the Allen and Harris property-renting agency for allowing me to marinate the aforementioned pig in the bathroom of the apartment they rented to me. To Mary Birtill and Irene Tominey I owe a debt for inspiring me with the Going Foot, and to all my Camino friends for walking the way with me. Jane and Dan Ganly have been a great help with IT advice and Janes intimate knowledge of chocolate; also to Nathan Shelton of Bread and Butter Creative I owe eternal thanks for all his wonderful design work on my website and blog. To Yorick, Roberta, Octavia, Zoe, Woody Wilks, and Louise Guthrie I would like to express gratitude for all those mad dining experiments in the Allam Street kitchen, while Pompey hid bananas in her dog basket and Miss Honey mated with my shoulder. Jean and Richard Haigh I must thank so much for advice on hope and the vast subject of vegetables. Thank you, dear Dr. Emily Gray, for letting me camp in your attic, and thank you to Marijke, Willem, Max, and Steve for so much laughter. Much of what I know about the royals I owe to conversations with Cabbage Murray and the Duke of Back: a big kiss to all Murrays (especially The Aunt) and Cuthberts! To Oscar Hughes I owe a debt for baby wonderfulness. Id like to send a kiss to Roisin Ross for being my best, kindest girl forever; as Moira said to me, so I say to you: Even when Im dust, that dust will love you. Even when Im dust, I hope that dust still knows youre my daughter.

Finally, Id like to express deep-hearted thankfulness to my dear husband and best friend, Gareth Sanger, for all the immense generosity, love, and belief he has shown in giving me a room of my own and 500.