Le Blond - Adventures on the Roof of the World

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ADVENTURES ON THE ROOF OF
THE WORLD

SOME
BOOKS ON MOUNTAINEERING

The Annals of Mont Blanc: A Monograph. By C. E. Mathews , sometime President of the Alpine Club. With Map, 6 Swan-types and other Illustrations, and Facsimiles. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s. net.

The Life of Man on the High Alps: Studies made on Monte Rosa. By Angelo Mosso . Translated from the Second Edition of the Italian by E. Lough Kiesow , in collaboration with F. Kiesow . With numerous Illustrations and Diagrams. Royal 8vo, cloth, 21s.

The Early Mountaineers: The Stories of their Lives. By Francis Gribble . Fully Illustrated. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 21s.

The Climbs of Norman-Neruda. Edited, with an Account of his last Climb, by May Norman-Neruda . Demy 8vo, cloth, 21s.

In the Ice World of Himalaya. By Fanny Bullock Workman and William Hunter Workman . With four large Maps and nearly 100 Illustrations. Demy 8vo, cloth gilt, 16s. Also a 6s. Edition.

From the Alps to the Andes. By Mathias Zurbriggen . Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net.

Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada. By Clarence King . Crown 8vo, cloth, 6s. net.

True Tales of Mountain Adventure (for Non-Climbers, Young and Old). By Mrs Aubrey Le Blond (Mrs Main). Demy 8vo, cloth, 10s. 6d. net.

LONDON: T. FISHER UNWIN.

The finding of the last bivouac of Messrs. Donkin and Fox in the Caucasus. (P. 116.) From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield, from The Exploration of the Caucasus. Frontispiece.
The finding of the last bivouac of Messrs. Donkin and Fox in the Caucasus. ()
From a drawing by Mr. Willink after a sketch by Captain Powell. Taken, by kind permission of Mr. Douglas Freshfield,
from The Exploration of the Caucasus.
Frontispiece.

ADVENTURES ON THE
ROOF OF THE WORLD

BY
MRS AUBREY LE BLOND
( Mrs MAIN )
AUTHOR OF
MY HOME IN THE ALPS, TRUE TALES OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE, ETC.
ILLUSTRATED
colophon
LONDON
T. FISHER UNWIN
PATERNOSTER SQUARE
1904
(All rights reserved.)

TO
J O S E P H I M B O D E N
MY GUIDE AND FRIEND FOR TWENTY YEARS,
I dedicate
THESE RECORDS OF A PASTIME IN WHICH I OWE
MY SHARE TO HIS SKILL, COURAGE, AND
HELPFUL COMPANIONSHIP.

PREFACE

D EAR HEART, said Tommy, when Mr Barlow had finished his narrative, what a number of accidents people are subject to in this world!

It is very true, answered Mr Barlow, but as that is the case, it is necessary to improve ourselves in every possible manner, so that we may be able to struggle against them.

Thus quoted, from Sandford and Merton, a president of the Alpine Club. The following True Tales from the Hills, if they serve to emphasise not only the perils of mountaineering but the means by which they can be lessened, will have accomplished the aim of their editor.

This book is not intended for the climber. To him most of the tales will be familiar in the volumes on the shelves of his library or on the lips of his companions during restful hours in the Alps. But the non-climber rarely sees The Alpine Journal and the less popular books on mountaineering, nor would he probably care to search in their pages for narratives likely to interest him.

To seek out tales of adventure easily intelligible to the non-climber, to edit them in popular form, to point out the lessons which most adventures can teach to those who may climb themselves one day, has occupied many pleasant hours, rendered doubly so by the feeling that I shall again come into touch with the readers who gave so kindly a greeting to my True Tales of Mountain Adventure. In that work I tried to explain the principles of mountaineering and something of the nature of glaciers and avalanches. Those chapters will, I think, be found helpful by non-climbers who read the present volume.

For much kindly advice and help in compiling this work I am indebted to Mr Henry Mayhew, of the British Museum, and to Mr Clinton Dent. Mrs Maund has enabled me to quote from a striking article by her late husband. Sir W. Martin Conway, Sir H. Seymour King, Messrs Tuckett, G. E. Foster, Cecil Slingsby, Harold Spender, and Edward Fitzgerald have been good enough to allow me to make long extracts from their writings. Messrs Newnes have generously permitted me to quote from articles which appeared in their publications, and the editor of The Cornhill has sanctioned my reprinting portions of a paper from his magazine. I am also indebted to the editor of MClures Magazine for a similar courtesy.

Mons. A. Campagne, Inspector of Water and Forests (France), allows me to make use of two very interesting photographs from his work on the Valley of Barge. Several friends have lent me photographs for reproduction in this work, and their names appear under each of the illustrations I owe to them. Messrs Spooner have kindly allowed me to use several by the late Mr W. F. Donkin. When not otherwise stated, the photographs are from my own negatives.

I take this opportunity of heartily thanking those climbers, some of them personally unknown to me, whose assistance has rendered this work possible.

E. LE BLOND.

67 The Drive,
BRIGHTON , December 1903.

CONTENTS

CHAP.	PAGE
PREFACE
SOME TALES OF ALPINE GUIDES
TWO DAYS ON AN ICE-SLOPE
SOME AVALANCHE ADVENTURES
A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE
A MONTH BENEATH AN AVALANCHE (continued)
AN EXCITING CAUCASIAN ASCENT
A MELANCHOLY QUEST
SOME NARROW ESCAPES AND FATAL ACCIDENTS
A NIGHT ADVENTURE ON THE DENT BLANCHE
ALONE ON THE DENT BLANCHE
A STIRRING DAY ON THE ROSETTA
THE ZINAL ROTHHORN TWICE IN ONE DAY
BENIGHTED ON A SNOW PEAK
THE STORY OF A BIG JUMP
A PERILOUS FIRST ASCENT
THUNDERSTORMS IN THE ALPS
LANDSLIPS IN THE MOUNTAINS
SOME TERRIBLE EXPERIENCES
FALLING STONES AND FALLING BODIES

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Some images have been moved from inside paragraphs for ease of reading. (note of the etext transcriber.)

The last bivouac of Messrs Donkin and Fox in the Caucasus

Christian Almer, Joseph Imboden, Jean Antoine Carrel, Alexander Burgener

The last steep bit near the topAt the end of a hot dayAn instants halt to choose the best way up a steep wall of rockThe ice-axes are stowed away in a crack, to be brought up by the last man

Auguste GentinettaAuguste Gentinetta on the way to the MatterhornThe beginning of the climb up the MatterhornThe spot where was the bergschrund into which Mr Sloggetts party fell

Auguste Gentinetta on a mountain-topThe ice-cliffs over which Mr Sloggetts party would have fallen had they not been dashed into the bergschrundThe ruined chapel by the SchwarzseeThe last resting-place at Zermatt of some English climbers

On a snow ridgeA halt for lunch above the snow-lineMrs Aubrey Le Blond

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