Rebecca Jumper Matheson - Young Originals: Emily Wilkens and the Teen Sophisticate
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- Book:Young Originals: Emily Wilkens and the Teen Sophisticate
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Costume Society of America series
Phyllis A. Specht,
Series Editor
ALSO IN THE COSTUME SOCIETY OF AMERICASERIES
American Menswear: From the CivilWar to the Twenty-first Century,
Daniel Delis Hill
American Silk, 1830-1930:Entrepreneurs and Artifact s,
Jacqueline Field, Marjorie Senechal, and Madelyn Shaw
As Seen in Vogue: A Century ofAmerican Fashion in Advertising,
Daniel Delis Hill
Clothing and Textile Collectionsin the United States,
Sally Queen and Vicki L. Berger
Dressing Modern Maternity: Th e Frankfurt Sisters of Dallas and the Page Boy Label,
Kay Goldman
Fashion Prints in the Age of LouisXIV: Interpreting the Art of Elegance,
edited by Kathryn Norberg and Sandra Rosenbaum
Forbidden Fashions: InvisibleLuxuries in Early Venetian Convents,
Isabella Campagnol
M. de Garsault's 1767Art of theShoemaker: An Annotated Translation,
translated by D. A. Saguto
A Perfect Fit: The GarmentIndustry and American Jewry, 1860-1960,
edited by Gabriel M. Goldstein and Elizabeth E. Greenberg
A Separate Sp here: Dressmakers in Cincinnati's Golden Age, 1877-1922,
Cynthia Amneus
The Sunbonnet: An American Icon inTexas,
Rebecca Jumper Matheson
Rebecca JumperMatheson
Texas Tech University Press
Copyright 2015 by Rebecca JumperMatheson
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced in anyform or by any means, including electronic storage and retrieval systems,except by explicit prior written permission of the publisher. Brief passagesexcerpted for review and critical purposes are excepted.
This book istypeset in Minion Pro. The paper used in this book meets the minimumrequirements of ANSI/NISO Z39.48-1992 (R1997).
Designed by KaseyMcBeath
Library ofCongress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Matheson, Rebecca Jumper, 1975-
You ng Originals : Emily Wilkens and the teen sophisticate /Reb ecca Jump er Matheson.
pages cm. (Costume society of America series)
Includesbibliographical references and index.
ISBN 978-0-89672-924-7 (paperback) ISBN 978-0-89672-925-4(e-book) 1. Wilkens , Emily. 2. Women fashiondesignersUnited StatesBiogra phy. 3. FashiondesignersUnited StatesBiography. 4. Fashion illustratorsUnit ed StatesBiography. 5. Teenage girlsClothingUnitedStatesHistory20th century. 6. Fashion merchandisingUnited Stat esHistory20th century. 7. Fash ionUnitedStatesHistory20th century. 8. Beauty, PersonalSocial aspects UnitedStatesHistory20th century. I. Title.
TT505.W54M38 2015
746.9'2092dc23
[B]
2014047391
15 16 17 18 19 2021 22 23 / 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Texas Tech University Press
Box 41037 | Lubbock, Texas 79409-1037 USA
800.832.4042 |
"Fashion andCostume Sketch Collection. Emily Wilkens sketch 041-06, S pring 1946" 1946. Brooklyn Museum Libraries. Fashion and Costume SketchCollection. Special Collections.
Emily Wilkens: The Early Years
Junior Miss and the Rise ofthe Teenager
Miss Emily Wilkens, Entrepreneur
Habits of Beauty
Designing Emily Wilkens Young Originals
Modern and Historicizing: Reassuring the Public
Fashion Agency: Marketing to Teens
Postwar
A New You
Emily Wilkens asa baby
Rose Drey Wilkens in her wedding dress
Morris Wilkens
EmilyWilkens1945
Weaver HighSchool
Emily Wilkens'scollege yearbook picture
Saks Fifth Avenueadvertisement
Four-year oldNancy Drury and Cornelia Otis Skinner
Junior Miss playbill cover
Patricia Peardon,John Cushman, Billy Redfield,
Lenore Lonergan in Junior Miss
Sketches ofbeachwear by designers including
Emily Wilkens and Tina Leser
L-85 regulationbefore and after
Design p atent for a windowpane check dress
Spring/Summer1945 "Flutterbye" ensemble
Emily Wilkens atthe Gotham Hosiery
Company hosiery fashion show
Milliken Woolensadvertisement
Design patent fora "young black" dress with
removable jerkin
Design patent for the "teacup dress"
Design patent fora smocked dress
Design patent fora pinafore-style sundress
The ideal bodysketched by Erica Perl Merkling
Emily Wilkens's1953 Patterns of the Times design
Design patent fora butterfly motif dress
Design patent for a rainy-day motif dress
Design patent fora long-sleeved dress with shoulder wings
"NewDesigner for the Teens" advertisement
Design patent fora dress with removable sweater-sleeves
Dresses withmatching parasols
Trousers by EmilyWilkens
Emily Wilke ns Young Originals, advertisement
Lenore Lonerganas Miriam Wilkins in Dear Ruth
"Heart-thrill"day dress from the 1945 Coty Awards fashion show
Evening dressfrom the Brooklyn Museum collection
Dress with eyelettrim from the Spring/Summer 1945 collection
Wilkens at theMuseum of Costume Art
Evening dress ofpink-and-white striped cotton with bustle bow in back
Yellow Sunmererayon dress with black velvet ribbon
"Dreamdress" from the 1945 Coty Awards fashion show
Beach ensemble ina Seminole-inspired p attern
Portrait of NewYork State Supreme Court Justice Irving Lawrence Levey
Emily Wilkenswith Morris Wilkens on the day she married Irving Levey
Emily Wilkens'sFall 1950 Patterns of the Times design
Emily Wilkens forBonwit Tellerevening dress
Emil y Wilkens for Bonwit Tellerevening dress with embroideredapron
Bonwit Telleradvertisement, Fall 1953
Emily Wilkens,early 1960s
Emily Wilkensteaching at FIT in the 1960s
Emily Wilkenswith Dr. Ana Aslan of the Bucharest Geriatrics Institute
Emily Wilk ens as a columnist for King Features Syndicate
in the late 1960s
Emily Wilkenswith husband Justin Kingson at a 1970s event
COLOR PLATES,FOLLOWING PAGE
Sketch of daydress with Emily Wilkens Young Originals features
Sketch of daytimesuit
An evening gow n in a fabric inspired by nineteenth-century ribbon
Detail of 1940sEmily Wilkens Young Originals label
Detail of 1950sEmily Wilkens label
"Portrait ofa young girl in a postwar fabric"
Illustration of adress with smocked bodice
Tee Matthewsrepresents t he Emily Wilkens ideal of beauty
Rustred-and-black striped taffeta afternoon suit
Skirt ofafternoon suit, showing "built-up" waistline
Two-piece"young black" evening dress with chiffon overskirt
Detail of"young black" evening dress bodice and waistband
Dress with"Quaker collar"
Front view ofRuby Giragosian's "best dress"
Detail of collaron "best dress"
Detail of peplumon "best dress"
Reverse view of"best dress"
Navy suit withbarrel-shape skirt and matching hat, bag, and shoes
Knickerbocker orbull fighter pant ensemble
Navy cocktaildress with bertha collar
Navy crepeevening dress with sequin trim
Navy crepeevening dress with sequin trim, reverse
Detail of navycrepe evening dress with sequin trim
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