David Smart - Emilio Comici: Angel of the Dolomites
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- Book:Emilio Comici: Angel of the Dolomites
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Winner of the Banff Mountain Book Competition: Climbing Literature Award
The first English-language biography of one of the most renowned Italian climbers, Emilio Comici, who bagged over 200 first ascents in the Eastern Alps prior to his death at 39 years of age in 1940.
Between 1925 and his death in 1940, Emilio Comici was the pre-eminent climber in the Eastern Alps, the hotbed of global rock climbing at that time. He made first ascents on some of the highest and most notorious walls in the Alps, including the northwest face of the Civetta, as well as dozens of other climbs.
Comici invented many modern big-wall techniques and the big-wall idiom itself that later took root in Yosemite Valley. Comici also made solo ascents of some of the hardest routes in the Alps, including his climb on the north face of the Cima Grande. He also designed the first artificial climbing wall that was ever actually built.
This book explores how family tragedy and growing up in working class Trieste under Austrian occupation shaped Comicis complex personality and attitudes toward climbing. He was loyal to his friends, deeply concerned about the vulnerable, including his fellow climbers, and yet highly competitive, a born vagabond and yet also a dandy, irresistible to women, and yet unable to settle down, devoted to his mother and to the mountains, and finally, like many other Italian climbers of the period, a member of the Italian fascist party although he was profoundly anti-German and opposed to racial persecution.
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Abu Harba
Agios Antonios
Ago di Villaco
Aiguille Dibona
Aiguille Verte
Almsy, Lszl
Amati, Gigino
Amedeo, Prince
Andrich, Alvise
Angerer, Willy
Antelao
Aschenbrenner, Peter and Paul
Badoglio, Pietro
Bagnold, Ralph
Balaguer, Carles
Balbo, Italo
Barisi, Albano
Bartesaghi, Giulio and Nino
Benedetti, Giulio
Bernardini, Brunetta (Bruna)
Berti, Antonio
Bertoldi, Franco
Bianchi, Giuseppe
Binaghi, Luigi
Binda, Alfredo
Boix, Josep
Bonacossa, Aldo
Bonatti, Walter
Bramani, Vitale
Brandler, Lothar
Brehm, Hans
Bricelik
Brioschi, Otto
Brovedani, Fernanda
Brovedani, Osiride
Brower, David
Brunner, Giorgio
Buffarini Guidi, Guido
Buhl, Hermann
Bus de la Lum
Buzzati, Dino
Cadini di Misurina
Campanile Basso
Campanile di Popera
Campanile di Val Montanaia
Campanile di Villaco
Carlesso, Raffaele (Biri)
Carli, Mario
Carniel, Antonio
Carrel, Jean-Antoine
Carrel, Jean-Joseph
Carrel, Luigi
Cartago, Regina
Casara, Severino
Cassin, Riccardo
Castiglioni, Ettore
Catinaccio dAntermoia
Ceglar, Dario
Cengia degli Dei
Cepich, Tullio
Cernitz, Carlo
Cerro Torre
Cervi, Antonio
Cesca, Mario
Chabod, Renato
Charlet, Armand
Christomannos, Demetrio
Ciano, Galeazzo
Cima dAuronzo
Cima degli Aghi
Cima del Bancon
Cima del Cadin
Cima Grande di Lavaredo
Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
Cima Piccola di Lavaredo
Cimon del Cavallo
Civetta
Comici, Antonio
Comici, Gastone
Comici, Lucia
Comici, Regina . See Cartago, Regina
Comici-Zsigmondy hut
Compagnoni, Achille
Conforto, Umberto
Corno del Nibbio
Corsi hut
Corti, Augusto
Costa, Josep
Cottafavi, Vittorio
Cozzi, Napoleone
Cridola
Crinale Piccolo
Cristallo
Croda dei Toni
Croda di Vilaco
Croz dellAltissimo
Culot, Severino
Deffar, Riccardo
Demetz, Toni
Dent du Gant
Detassis, Bruno
Deye, Adolf
Dibona, Angelo
Dibona, Ignazio
Dimai, Angelo (Jr.)
Dimai, Angelo (Sr.)
Dimai, Giuseppe
Dito di Dio
Dru
Dlfer, Hans
Durissini, Duilio
Egger, Toni
Eigerwand
El Capitan
Escher, Anna
Escher, Waldo Charles von
Esposito, Ercole Ruchin
Esposito, Luigi (Gino)
Everest
Evola, Julius
Fabjan, Giordano Bruno
Fiechtl, Hans
Fissore, Dr.
Fleischbank
Franco, Francisco
Franz, Hanne
Franz Joseph, Emperor
Furchetta
Gabel Shaib al Banat
Gala, Giulio Della
Gariboldi, Italo
Gasherbrum IV
Gasperi, Oliviero
Gennaro, Mary
Gervasutti, Giusto
Ghedina, Giuseppe
Gilberti, Celso
Giorgi, Tomaso
Giussani, Camillo
Glanvell, Victor Wolf von
Gbel, Franz
Graham, W.W.
Grandes Jorasses
Grandi, Dino
Grinta di Plezzo
Grivel, Laurent
Grohmann, Paul
Grosses Wiesbachhorn
Grotta dei Pini
Guerra, Learco
Half Dome
Harrer, Heinrich
Hartwich-Brioschi, Emmy
Hasse, Dieter
Heckmair, Anderl
Heilin, Arthur
Hermann Findenegg hut
Herzog, Otto
Hinterstoisser, Andreas
Hitler, Adolf
Hller, Hubert
Inaudi, Giuseppe
Innerkofler, Franz
Innominata, L
Jacchia, Paolo
Jebel el Saru
Jebel Musa
Jebel Quattar
Jf di Montasio
Jf Fuart
Kakkalos, Christos
Kaltenegger, Paul
Kasparek, Fritz
Kleinspitze . See Innominata, L
Kravanje, Matije
Kroner, Gustl
Kugy, Julius
Kuhn, Fritz
Kurz, Marcel
Kurz, Toni
Lacedelli, Francesco
Lacedelli, Lino
Lammer, Eugen
Lavaredo hut
Lehne, Jrg
Leopold III, King (Belgium)
Lettenbauer, Gustav
Lipovec, Jova
Lorenzi, Gino Di
Lw, Siegfried
Maestri, Cesare
Manaresi, Angelo
Mandlkogel
Marcovig, Giuseppe
Marmolada di Penia
Marsi, Alice
Marson, Luigi
Masini, Luigi
Matterhorn
Mauri, Carlo
Mayer, Guido and Max
Mazzeni, Dario
Mazzorana, Piero
Meazza, Giuseppe
Medjame cavern
Mehringer, Karl
Meije
Messner, Reinhold
Micheluzzi, Luigi
Mohor, Gianni
Montasio . See Jf di Montasio
Mont-Blanc
Monte Cristallo
Monte Grappa
Mont Rouge de Peuterey
Muir, John
Mummery, Albert
Muschi, Edvige
Mussner, Antonio
Mussolini, Benito
Mussolini Hut . See Comici-Zsigmondy hut
Mytikas
Odle
Opiglia, Ovidio
Oro, Mario dell (Boga)
Orsini, Mario
Ortelli, Toni
Ottoz, Arturo and Osvaldo
Pacifico, Umberto
Paganella
Palmquist, Rita
Pan di Zucchero
Pedrotti hut
Pellarini hut
Pellissier, Joseph
Pelmo
Pennard, Albino
Perathoner, Roberto
Perugino, Giuliano
Pesamosca, Osvaldo
Peters, Rudolf
Petit Dru
Petit Encantat
Pianto, Marcello Del
Piaz, Tita
Pibernik, Mira
Piloni, Antonio
Pirovano, Giorgio
Piz Badile
Pomagagnon
Pompei, Gianfranco
Pozzi, Antonia
Prati, Pino
Prato, Claudio
Premuda, Mario
Preuss, Paul
Prez, Cesare
Principe Umberto hut
Punta Frida
Rainer, Edi
Raspo cave
Ratti, Vittorio
Razza, Gino
Rebitsch, Mathias
Reiner, Willi
Reischman, Joseph
Reut-Nicolussi, Eduard
Rey, Guido
Riefenstahl, Leni
Riofreddo
Rittler, Leo
Rizzi, Luigi
Robbins, Royal
Rocco, Ezio
Rossi, Mino
Rossi, Rolando
Rudatis, Domenico
Saar, Karl Gnther von
Sabadin, Glauco
Salath, John
Salcher, Peter
Salvadori, Mario
Sass Maor
Sassolungo
Schintermeister, Sepp
Schmid, Franz and Toni
Scott, Doug
Sedlmeyer, Max
Sereni, Vittorio
Seressa, Rezs
Serrano Suer, Ramn
Shiprock
Sierra de Gredos
Simon, Felix
Skolio
krlatica
Slataper, Scipio
Slocovich, Piero
Smlikas
Smythe, Frank
Sold, Gino
Soldat, Luciano
Solleder, Emil
Sorapiss
Sorella di Mezzo
Spigolo Giallo
Spinotti, Riccardo
Spreafico, Mario
Stefanelli, Domenico Pietro
Stefani
Stefenelli, Fausto
Steger, Hans
Stsser, Walter
Strekeli, Stanislaus
Stuparich, Giani
Tarabocchia, Cesare
Tissi, Attilio
Tizzoni, Ugo
Tofana di Mezzo
Tofane
Tolomei, Ettore
Tominek, Stane
Torso, Sandro Del
Totenkirchl
Trenker, Luis
Treves, Paolo and Piero
Triglav
Turati, Augusto
Ucosich, Germana
Umberto hut . See Principe Umberto hut
Um Shomer
Vajolet hut
Vajolet Towers
Vallepiana, Count Ugo di Ottolenghi di
Vandelli hut
Varale, Mary
Varale, Vittorio
Vazzoler hut
Verzi, Agostino
Verzi, Angelo
Verzi, Antonio
Victor Emmanuel III, King
Videsott, Renzo
Vinatzer, Gian Battista (Hans)
Vrg, Wiggerl
Walker Spur . See Grandes Jorasses
Weissensteiner, Killian
Welzenbach, Willo
Wetterhorn
Whillans, Don
Whymper, Edward
Wiesinger, Paula
Wiessner, Fritz
Wilson, Ken
Winkler, Georg
Wolf, Dario
Xidias, Spiro Della Porta
Zannichelli, Giovanni Girolamo
Zanutti, Alberto
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