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Ted Pedersen - Seattles Greenwood-Phinney Neighborhood

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Ted Pedersen Seattles Greenwood-Phinney Neighborhood
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The beauty of Seattles Greenwood lies in its contrasts. It is an old-fangled neighborhood with a trendy edge, where coffee shops and espresso bars mix with cafs, shops, and galleries patronized by antique hounds. The locals dub it Seattles hidden treasure. Just south, Phinney occupies a high ridge that rises from the western shore of Green Lake. The neighborhood owes its name to Guy Phinney, a wealthy immigrant from Nova Scotia who developed the private estate that became Woodland Park. Together these neighborhoods have forged a common bond, illustrated by the formation of the Greenwood-Phinney Chamber of Commerce. The area hosts a world-class zoo and is home to the only Tibetan Buddhist monastery in the world outside of Tibet.

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Table of Contents ACKNOWLEDGMENTS A book like this can never be - photo 1
Table of Contents

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

A book like this can never be accomplished alone, so thanks go out to everyone who helped in the process. First my thanks to the always helpful faculty of Greenwood Elementary School and in particular those students of grades five, six, and seven who, in 1948, researched and collected first-hand information from many long-term residents and wrote A History of Greenwood, which they initially presented as a pageant.

Many thanks to the wonderful staff of the Greenwood Public Library for providing information and photographs: Beth Kashner, Peg Dombek, Mike Bergson, Heather Card, Marty Hendley, Kathy Teufel, and Francessa Wainwright. To Beth Pflug of the Seattle Department of Neighborhoods and the Greenwood-Phinney Chamber of Commerce. To the ever-helpful folks at the Seattle Municipal Archives, the University of Washington (UW) historical collections, and especially to Carolyn Marr of the Museum of History and Industry (MOHAI). And, of course, thanks to the Phinney Neighborhood Association and in particular to Ann Bowden for background material and many wonderful images. And thanks to everyone who recalled their experiences of growing up in this neighborhood. Thanks to Marlene of Gorditos for the loan of some wonderful old photographs. Certainly, thanks goes to my wife, Phyllis, my sisters Sally and Peggy, and my cats, Rookie and Charlie, for their support in the writing of this book. And finally, of course, to my editor, Julie Pheasant-Albright.

All photographs not otherwise credited are from the authors collection.

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TAMING THE LAND

Land could not be purchased from the federal government until it was surveyed. So on August 17, 1855, a survey crew proceeded north along what would later be defined as Greenwood Avenue N starting at North Sixty-fifth Street. They noted fir and cedar trees from one and one-half to three and one-half feet in diameter. At Seventy-sixth Street the crew spotted a dead fir nearly six feet in diameter. Upon reaching Eighty-fifth Street, they described the route along this mile as follows: Land nearly level, Soil 2nd rate. Timber, fir, cedar, hemlock. Undergrowth: Laurel, Fern and willow. They submitted their completed survey on January 11, 1856.

On June 28, 1872, William Knight purchased 159 acres from the federal government in what would become a part of the Greenwood retail district of Seattle. The Greenwood district is located in north Seattle, north of Green Lake. Knight paid $1.25 per acre for the real estate. His purchase included land that would later be bounded by Eightieth to Eighty-fifth Streets and Third Avenue NW to Aurora Avenue, plus Eighty-fifth to Ninetieth Streets and Greenwood to Fremont Avenues. The land northwest of Northwest Eighty-fifth Street and Greenwood Avenue N was set aside for school purposes.

In 1900, most of Phinney Ridge was still forest. But within three years, the eastern slope had surrendered its Douglas fir and cedar trees to Parkers sawmill at the east end of Green Lake, and 1,500 residents now lived on the balding ridge above the lakes western shore. Certainly, rail travel was easier than slogging through mud roads in the early automobiles. The pattern of growth of the Phinney neighborhood thus followed the laying of rails for the electric trolley lines in the area. By 1900, nearly all the land in the future Green Lake, Phinney, and Greenwood neighborhoods was platted. But development on the western slope of the ridge, facing Ballard, lagged behind the eastern slope, facing Green Lake.

Beginning in 1888 electric streetcar lines were being built in many parts of - photo 3

Beginning in 1888, electric streetcar lines were being built in many parts of Seattle. The Green Lake Electric Railway was begun in 1889 to serve the area north of Fremont. The tracks followed an old logging railway route and ran along the eastern shore of Green Lake, ending at about North Seventieth Street. This late 1890s photograph by Anders Wilse shows the tracks of the Green Lake Electric Railway running along the shores of Green Lake. It looks as if the trees had been cut recently. (Phinney Neighborhood Association.)

This view of Woodland Park from an early postcard from about 1890 shows a woman - photo 4

This view of Woodland Park from an early postcard from about 1890 shows a woman and child walking along one of the roads that cut through the park. Note how many of the trees have been cut, leaving large clearings.

Much of the area of Woodland Park was logged before 1890 but loggers left the - photo 5

Much of the area of Woodland Park was logged before 1890, but loggers left the smaller treeseverything 6 feet in diameter or less. This created many small paths for people to use. One such path can be seen in this early postcard.

Woodland Park during the 1890s had gardens a zoo a large greenhouse and many - photo 6

Woodland Park during the 1890s had gardens, a zoo, a large greenhouse, and many miles of winding paths through the woods. At that time, Woodland Park included Green Lake. This postcard, taken sometime between 1897 and 1900, shows children playing on the road to Green Lake in Seattles Woodland Park.

In 1887 a wealthy lumber mill owner and real estate developer named Guy C - photo 7

In 1887, a wealthy lumber mill owner and real estate developer named Guy C. Phinney paid $10,000 for 342 acres of land along what is now called Phinney Ridge and down the slope to Green Lake. This photograph shows part of his elaborate estate. Phinney spent $40,000 constructing an elegant English-style estate, complete with formal gardens. He named it Woodland Park. (University of Washington special collections.)

Guy C Phinney kept 180 acres for himself and spent 40000 constructing an - photo 8

Guy C. Phinney kept 180 acres for himself and spent $40,000 constructing an elegant English-style estate, complete with formal gardens. There was a conservatory, promenade, hunting lodge, the Woodlands Hotel, and even a menagerie. The animal collection featured North American animals such as black bears and deer, but there were African ostriches as well. The upper portion, where the zoo is today, was almost completely cleared of trees. A winding road led down to the lakes edge through the more forested portion of the estate. (University of Washington special collections.)

The Woodland Grocery Flour and Feed store was owned and operated by Rasmus - photo 9

The Woodland Grocery Flour and Feed store was owned and operated by Rasmus Peter Jenson in this 1905 photograph. A carpenter by trade, Jenson also had a store near what is now Sixtieth Street and Fortieth Street NW. (Phinney Neighborhood Association.)

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