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Peter Stothard - Alexandria - The Last Nights of Cleopatra

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Peter Stothard Alexandria - The Last Nights of Cleopatra
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    Alexandria - The Last Nights of Cleopatra
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When Peter Stothard, editor of the Times Literary Supplement, finds himself stranded in Alexandria in the winter of 2010 after his flight to South Africa has been cancelled, he sets out to explore a nation on the brink of revolution. Guided by two native Egyptians, Stothard traces his own life-long interest in the history of Cleopatra, and his repeated failure to write the book about her that he had always wanted to.In Alexandria, part memoir and part travel literature, Stothard was the sights and sounds of the ancient city to reconnect with the formative experiences of his childhood education, and his literary career. Melancholy and sometimes humorous, Alexandria offers a first-hand glimpse into the fracturing police state of Hosni Mubarak, before the uprising in Tahir Square changed everything.

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This edition first published in hardcover in the United States in 2013 by The - photo 1

This edition first published in hardcover in the United States in 2013 by

The Overlook Press, Peter Mayer Publishers, Inc.

www.overlookpress.com

For bulk and special sales, please contact , or write us at the above address.

First published in Great Britain by Granta Books, 2013

Copyright AspWords, 2013

Image on : Jan de Bray (c.162797), Banquet of Mark Antony and Cleopatra, 1652. Oil on canvas. Supplied by Royal Collection Trust / HM Queen Elizabeth II 2012.

Map on pp. xxi copyright Leslie Robinson and Vera Brice, 2013

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system now known or to be invented, without permission in writing from the publisher, except by a reviewer who wishes to quote brief passages in connection with a review written for inclusion in a magazine, newspaper, or broadcast.

ISBN: 978-1-4683-1039-9

i.m.

RJMG (19512010)

In the new year of 2011, on the eve of the Arab Spring, I was in Alexandria to complete a book about Cleopatra. With me were the remains of seven previous attempts. This time there had to be an end.

CONTENTS

Arrival in Alexandria | a yellow room at Le Metropole | Maurice and the Red Tents | how Cleopatra made it happen

Cleopatra the First | Mahmoud and Socratis | New Year bombing | the Dead Fountain cafe | Essex clay | I look myself up

Slightly poisoned | Muslims and Copts | Montys bar | Jesus, the missing years

Cleopatra the Second | the rough-book | E.M. Forster and the Ptolemies | boxes of tragedies | death by needles and beaks

Partial eclipse | Sir Anthony Brownes foundation | Mr G and Mr W | She Who Must Be Obeyed | blood from his nose | an arms salesman

V, the schoolgirl | teenage years | sodomy in Greek | burning books | a boy called Frog | Paul Simon and Jimi Hendricks (sic)

Cleopatra the Third | Miss Taylor | signs of a beard | Pompeys Pillar | a bomber and a carpet

Cleopatra the Fourth | in Oxford | a kiss from V | Julius Caesars little war | a cruise down the Nile

Maurice gets Marowitzed | Lighthouse island | Mahmoud and the church bomb | Ides of March

A lesson from Holladay | Continuators | watch the office men | what classicists do | a night at The Frogs

Cleopatra the Fifth | an actress at St Marks | sex with Crissie | Maurices Nubian night | Socratis on Caesar | Aulus Hirtius, V and me

The Metropole red-and-green Ball | tied down in the tents | Frog and the Mermaids

Secret seventies | the Latin for hangover | Alexandrian rules | Southern Bug | somewhere on Loves Island | alphabets in the sky

The middle of the story | Mark Antony waits at Tarsus | perfumed sails | successors to Caesar | a queen cannot choose her pimp

Cleopatra the Sixth | grey days at Big Oil | bureaucracy student | a different Antony Brown

Cleopatra the Seventh | space barons | V in the Red Tents | Calthorpe Arms | the Thatcher who must be obeyed | F for Farouk | Dukes rout

The purpose of parties | Mark Antonys wars | generous happenings for a general | the new Caesars

Queens by night and day | dreams of dogs | Romans and Alexandrians in the newsroom | leading articles | the Scargill gaffe

Last nights of an editor | farewell to Calthorpe and other Arms | lost notes | what happened at Actium

Mahmoud and the troops | death of Antony | Socratiss mother sings | coincident cancers

Maurice and Cleopatra reunited | how to die without pain | E.M. Forster on the North Sea

V comes to Cheltenham | how to read a Latin poem | the afterlife of Romans | drink and move on

Last night, last words | farewell to Le Metropole | noises from the border | the right choice of driver

Elizabeth Taylor and the Arab Spring

Hotel Metropole Place Saad Zaghloul Alexandria This is precisely the eighth - photo 2

Hotel Metropole Place Saad Zaghloul Alexandria This is precisely the eighth - photo 3

Hotel Metropole, Place Saad Zaghloul, Alexandria

This is precisely the eighth time I have begun to write this book. I am certain of that. It sometimes seems the only certainty. Here in Room 114 of the Metropole Hotel there is written evidence of all the other seven attempts, long pages and short scraps, bleached and yellowed, each piece patch-working into the bedcover as though they had always been here. I have unpacked them as carefully as though they were ancient history itself, more carefully than I packed them in London yesterday. There is no order yet. The first are not even my own words. They are Maurices. I have not read them for forty years, not since we were at Oxford together and I first followed his florid dictation. I have not yet unpacked anything else.

There was a red tent within a red tent within a red tent. That was what Frog said. The walls behind were grey-green and damp but in front of the canvas slit that led to the sanctuaries were dry roses. Inside the first encircling corridor the floor was warm leather. Through a second slit into a second circle there was a different carpet, silk or satin, light enough to show the outlines of the limbs that lay bodiless beneath.

These limbs were lower legs, both right legs, the soles of their covered feet fixed upwards, the faint shape of the sweating toes visible beneath the cloth. The higher parts of the thighs were out of sight inside the final red tent on the floor of the innermost chamber. There was no opening by which to pass through and see why two women, probably women, were lying face down in the hidden heart of this strange construction; or why one of each of their legs was stretched outside into the corridor as though for some reason surplus to requirements.

The only instruction was on a pink card secured by a jewelled brooch, carrying words in Greek, veiled in the obscurity of a learned language as Edward Gibbon once noted on a similar occasion: Menete! Nereidais Kleopatras Palaistra (Wait Here to Wrestle with Cleopatras Mermaids).

Maurices story of the Red Tents was part of my fifth Cleopatra, perhaps one of the less respectable attempts. It was wilfully mysterious, a mingling of geometry, classics and pornography, as though in parody of a school curriculum. It was a shock at the time (I was easier to shock back then) but I recorded it in clear, round lettering, in a college room at Trinity, as accurately as the fumes of sherry and Old Spice allowed. At some point in the coming weeks I will try to remember more.

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